In case the link is ever broken, cut and paste the PDF file here: Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor, Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University The Myth of Gypsum Magic âAdding gypsum to your yard or garden will improve soil tilth and plant healthâ The Myth Upon continued prodding from one of my university extension colleagues, I recently watched several episodes of a well-known gardening program on television. My kids joined me, alerted by my animated responses to the hostâs non-stop torrent of advice. Among many amazing discoveries I learned that by adding gypsum to my yard or garden I would improve my problem soils by changing the particle size and loosening compaction. Further searching on the web revealed that gypsum would also improve drainage, decrease acidity, and eliminate soil salts. Previously, I had heard of gypsum for use in soil reclamation projects, but not for a typical urban landscape. Since gypsum is simply calcium sulfate, could this chemical truly transform soil structure and serve as a fertilizer for yards and gardens? The Reality This myth falls into the category of agricultural practices misapplied to ornamental landscapes. Gypsum effectively changes the structure and fertility of heavy clay soils, especially those that are heavily weathered or subject to intensive crop production. Gypsum also improves sodic (saline) soils by removing sodium from the soil and replacing it with calcium. Therefore, one can see improvement in clay soil structure and fertility, and desalinization of sodium-rich soils, by using gypsum. What other effects will gypsum have on soil and plant health? There are a number of scientific studies on gypsum usage both in the literature and on websites. Briefly, researchers have found: ⢠Gypsum does not usually change soil acidity, though occasional reports of both increasing and decreasing pH exist; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of aluminum, which can detoxify soils but also contaminates nearby watersheds; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of iron and manganese, leading to deficiencies of these nutrients; ⢠Gypsum applied to acid soils can induce magnesium deficiency in plants on site; ⢠Gypsum applied to sandy soils can depress phosphorus, copper and zinc transport; ⢠Gypsum can have negative effects on mycorrhizal inoculation of roots, which may account for several reports of negative effects of gypsum on tree seedling establishment and survival; ⢠Gypsum is variable in its effects on mature trees; ⢠Gypsum will not improve fertility of acid or sandy soils; ⢠Gypsum will not improve water holding capacity of sandy soils; and ⢠Gypsumâs effects are short-lived (often a matter of months) With the exception of arid and coastal regions (where soil salts are high) and the southeastern United States (where heavy clay soils are common), gypsum amendment is just not necessary in non-agricultural areas. Urban soils are generally amalgamations of subsoils, native and non-native topsoils, and - in home landscapes - high levels of organic and non-organic chemical additives. They are also heavily compacted and layered (and gypsum does not work well on layered soils). In such landscapes, it is pointless to add yet more chemicals in the form of gypsum unless you need to increase soil calcium levels. This nutrient deficiency can be quickly identified by any soil testing laboratory for less than a bag of gypsum costs. (If you need to improve sulfur nutrition, itâs wiser to use ammonium sulfate). To reduce compaction and improve aeration in nearly any landscape, application of an organic mulch is more economically and environmentally sustainable. The Bottom Line ⢠Gypsum can improve heavy clay soil structure and remove sodium from saline soils ⢠Gypsum has no effect on soil fertility, structure, or pH of any other soil type ⢠Most urban soils are not improved by additional gypsum ⢠Before adding gypsum or any chemical to a landscape, have soil analysis performed to identify mineral deficiencies, toxicities, and soil character ⢠Adding gypsum to sandy or non-sodic soils is a waste of money, natural resources, and can have negative impacts on plant, soil, and ecosystem health For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scottâs web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com.

As PG22 said! If there is in fact a little soap IN the existing paint film......ITS GOTTA GO! Nothing you do now on top of that contaminated paint layer will adhere....for long. ESPECIALLY with a more humid environment like that!!!! It's probably gonna be an ugly job, I wish I could say otherwise!!! Once layer(s) are removed... 1) Rinse off lightly any sanding dust. 2) Patch & repair/retexturing if needed. 3) Use Zinssers 123 primer. A good/full even coat!! Buy NEW, good quality roller-covers, 3/8" nap. 4) Buy QUALITY paint in a Satin or higher sheen. Apply TWO full coats. >>>> If possible....let the new paint dry out a day or two before a ton of steam hits it. Faron

Project managing a GC partnership that you the homeowner hires and pays is a different scenario that allows a designer to be in charge of the outcome, but not be a contractor. Hiring and paying subs makes her the GC. If she is acting as the GC, is she actually a licensed GC in your state? Does she maintain the correct insurance to be able to act as a GC? Contracting without a license is not legal. And why did she not reschedule the tile work to a day when she would be able to get them started with clear instructions and be available to handle issues? And why were grout samples not prepared? Everyone has days of divided responsibilities and unavailability. She handled that portion poorly. And she should provide new tile and have it redone. If the counters are permanently damaged, they should be replaced as well. Sadly, all that really needed to be done was go have had the grout coated with an epoxy grout colorant. $15 worth of material and maybe $200 in labor, bevause there’s a lot of grout lines. This will be an expensive education for her. Which she should gladly pay, in order to learn to not make the same mistake again. If she is contracting without a license, it can have pretty far reaching consequences.

Even if you could find a cover that doesn't need to screw in, the plug will be recessed too much to due to the tabs being behind the tile. All you need is a Dremel tool to notch out around the flanges. Then put spacers behind the flanges to bring the plugs out where they belong. You should be able to do this without damaging the tile if you use the right cutting tip and have a steady hand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXiS4yl3bYY