What is this grass that has taken over my lawn?
barrowp
2 years ago
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barrowp
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Help wild strawberries have taken over my lawn!
Comments (2)Unless you build a kennel, I doubt anything will work... The thick areas of my lawn choke this out....See MoreWeeds have taken over my grass
Comments (2)If you really think you have lots of thatch then you may want to look at de-thatching. When was the last time you aerated your lawn? This can even help with the thatch issue if it's not to thick. There are two different ways you can aerate. 1. you can just polk holes into the lawn with a standard aerater or you can do 2. plug aeration. Plug aeration will actuall pull out little pieces of dirt about the size of a small cork. This will allow you to reseed. After you reseed you want to but a small top dressing of compost to cover the seeds but if you don't have compost you can look at doing peat moss (some people are completely against the peat moss but it work) you don't want to let the seed uncovered though. You will want to do that in the fall then next year your lawn will be very thick and will help ward off any weeds. Also you don't want to cut you grass to short try and keep it at about 3 inches. If you water make sure it's a long watering so that the deap root of the grass can use it and not weeds....See MoreMy yard has been taken over by weeds
Comments (5)If you already have St Augustine then you can recover it this season. The secret is to allow the grass to get up to 6 inches before mowing it back to 4 inches (mower's highest setting). The other secret is to ensure it gets water only infrequently but deeply every time. If you get an inch of rain, then you don't need to water. Watering frequency depends on temperature, soil, grass type, shade, cloud cover, etc. Generally this time of year it should be once a month. In the heat of summer it should be once a week. Water a full inch when you water. Measure that with a cat food or tuna can. If you are fertilizing with chemicals, then wait until the grass is growing and you have mowed it twice. If you are fertilizing with organics, you can start now and do it again in April....See MorePlease help...my lawn is being taken over!!
Comments (14)>>Let's hope morpheus can help with a winterizer fertilizer. I think morph likes to use organics all year long EXCEPT for the final winterizer. He uses a high Nitrogen chemical fert for that application. The idea is to prepare the soil fertility for the spring. Any high-nitrogen, low anything else, fast-release fertilizer is great for winterizing the lawn. This year, I'm using Vigoro 29-0-4 (or some such, that's very close) because it was the second cheapest in terms of nitrogen cost per thousand square feet. The cheapest, pure urea (45-0-0) is too touchy for me to be terribly comfortable using it, even in November. Winterization goes when the lawn stops growing but it's still green. That date varies widely by locale and weather that year--for me in Pennsylvania, Thanksgiving is pretty close to the average date, but it can vary by 2 weeks or more either way. The rest of the year I use soybean meal (7-1-2, give or take). My applications are May 1, August 1, September 1, and October 1, but the August application is technically optional. I lean toward 15 pounds per thousand square feet to deliver 1 pound of protein-based nitrogen per thousand square feet--making the grand total N on the lawn about 5 pounds per thousand square feet per year including the winterizer. That's more than sufficient for Kentucky bluegrass and well into luxury consumption rates for fescue and rye. >>Christmas sounds about right. Again, I'd like to see morph's comments on frost seeding. Christmas would be fine. Whenever the temperatures have taken their final tumble into winter and aren't going to recover until spring is great. Perfect would be to time it right before the first significant snowfall that's going to stick around--but that's not assured in all locales. So off the cuff, any time from late December through February 10th or so is perfect. After that, temperatures are about to start rising for spring, and you want that seed to freeze/thaw for a few weeks, get wet, and go through pre-germination before spring hits. Sprout will happen when soil temperatures rise over 50 degrees consistently, which is another date that varies widely. Late March through late April are the normal dates....See MoreChristopher CNC
2 years agobarrowp
2 years agoChristopher CNC
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoThe Lawn Medic
2 years agobarrowp
2 years agoroshanrosareo
2 years agobarrowp
2 years agoroshanrosareo
2 years agoMyra Briggs
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2 years ago
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Christopher CNC