Rockyn --- here is some info I posted way back when. Zinc is OK in concrete that is not exposed to a lot of salt. It will eventually corrode, but it I've seen and worked on hundred-year old pieces in which the rebar was gone but most of the galvanized (zinc coated) lath was still in pretty good shape. Oddly enough, it is the layer of corrosion that forms almost instantly that protects zinc in concrete for the long term. Here's the poop on zinc and a few other metals from a non-copyrighted, online technical article........... "CORROSION OF NONFERROUS METALS IN CONTACT WITH CONCRETE OR MORTAR Aluminum (Al) Embedded aluminum roof flashing, aluminum water stops, aluminum electrical conduit, introduced aluminum powder (sometimes used to foam concrete), or embedded structural aluminum shapes may all corrode in concrete or mortar. In all cases, a reaction that forms aluminum hydroxide and hydrogen gas occurs, and may cause expansion and cracking of the concrete or mortar. The common use of calcium chloride (or other alkali compounds), and dampness of the concrete increases the reaction rate. Usually, coating the aluminum with bituminous paint, impregnated paper or felt, plastic, or an alkali-resistant coating will prevent or sharply reduce the corrosion. Copper (Cu) Copper embedded in concrete and/or mortar is usually roof flashing. Embedded copper is practically immune to reaction with corrosive alkalis, even if exposed to constant moisture. Copper will not react with dry, hardened concrete and/or mortar. Rainwater leaching, however, may bring chlorides in contact with the metal. Corrosion may occur and result in a green discoloration or runoff. Consequently, chloride admixtures should not be used in concrete if contact with copper is expected. Lead (Pb) Lead will always corrode when in contact with fresh concrete and/or mortar. The high pH from calcium hydroxide is the cause of the corrosion. Cured, seasoned concrete or mortar will not react with lead. Corrosion of embedded lead flashing in mortar joints will usually result in the production of a lead oxide, a white discoloration. A special case of lead corrosion, called differential aeration, occurs when a lead strip is partially embedded in concrete so that part of the strip is exposed to air. The embedded section has a different electrical potential than the section exposed to air. The result is that the strip will become polar in the presence of moisture. Gradual corrosion and disintegration of the embedded lead will then follow. In such a case, and in all other cases, the embedded portion should be coated with epoxy, varnish, asphalt, or pitch. Zinc (Zn) Zinc is highly reactive with alkalies and will deteriorate to some degree upon contact with fresh concrete and/or mortar. The reaction is limited due to a corrosive film that forms on the outer layer of the zinc. It protects the underlying metal from further reaction. Zinc will not react with dry, seasoned concrete and/or mortar. Embedded zinc will react with moisture and calcium hydroxide to produce calcium zincate. Zinc corrosion may also occur when galvanized iron, in the form of flat or corrugated sheets and rebar, comes in contact with fresh concrete and/or mortar. Galvanized iron is coated with zinc, and will react with moisture and chlorides in the concrete and/or mortar to produce zinc chloride. The result is expansion and cracking of the concrete and/or mortar. The metal should be protected with epoxy, varnish, asphalt, or pitch."

Yes: force! Wow--I can't believe it! It's done!! In an hour. With a crow bar (there was already a hole to start me). It would have gone faster, but I felt so terrible about removing the old tile (I'm a restorationist!). I had to keep apologizing to it. Wow! I thought it would be impossible! Yippee! Something about my kitchen remodel has finally gone right! Francy

I'm writing this for any future issues with this mesh. Mineral spirits can leave an oil on the honed marble. I had the same problem with mesh markings. My marble (countertop) installer said to use Lacquer Thinner instead. They clean honed slabs all the time with lacquer thinner. This did take most of the mesh markings off my honed tile. I then took #0000 steel wool and worked on any remaining markings. Even this fine steel wool can hone the marble just slightly more, but honestly I can't tell between those where I used steel wool and those where I didn't. You might just experiment. So far I haven't seen where the lacquer thinner has dulled or lightened the marble tile, but my countertop installer said I could use an enhanced penetrating sealer versus just a plain sealer when we seal the tile. The enhanced sealer will darken the tile (but won't change the finish from honed to polished) so experiment first.

I agree with Fori. It sounds like the granite might be a nice texture and finish contrast to the floor...Just enough to add interest, not look wrong. I don't think the 3 cm is too thin an edge for that size island. Most of my backsplash is made of 5/8" tiles!...so plenty of grout lines, but no trouble to keep clean. I wouldn't want it for a work surface, but the little bit of splashes that get on it aren't bad to deal with and wiping it down is pretty easy. I agree that in most cases 18" tiles would stand out and not in a good way. 6 x 12" tiles are about the largest I've seen for backsplash, and even those work only if your kitchen can handle the size and somewhat contemporary style. If you don't like groutlines at all, using a slab was what I was thinking to suggest, too. You would take the doors off to paint the cabinets, and painting the outside of the boxes with the countertops on, as Fori also said, should be fine. The arc on the island overhang is a matter of personal taste and kitchen style. An arced overhang can make it more conversational, so that all the people won't be lined up shoulder-to-shoulder, facing forward...But I'm not sure a 2" difference (from 9" to 11") will affect that much. In fact, if it means the people on the end lose 2" of overhang..from 11" down to 9"..I probably wouldn't do it, as 11" isn't that much to start with. And I happen to prefer a rectangular island to a sleeker, arced edge, so I'm biased. Best wishes!