"I bought the molds to make my own stones .... I am just not sure if this style will go with the house." I think I know what you're talking about ... the plastic mold-making forms from big box stores. It would not excite me for a front walkway, but suit yourself. Another source of low-cost materials (brick, etc.) is craigslist if you live in an area where it's used, though it may take some time to find what you want. Here are some quick ideas. I'm sure they would need refinement. The numbers correspond with the following notes: 1. Figure out the ultimate conclusion of the tree now so you can help it grow into the proper shape. If it's going to have a raised canopy (I suggest at least 8' so that it well clears the heads of adults) then there's no reason to let limbs and branches below 50% of the total tree height remain. Doing so allows the tree to waste energy producing foliage & wood you don't want long term. Besides that, the low branches are generally in the way. If you prune before the spring flush of growth, the tree will grow back much of what you cut off but at a higher, more desirable elevation. 2. Is a bulky shrub placed in line with just behind the front face of the house. It helps block the low elevation view into the neighbor's back yard. Could be 4' to 8' ht ... whatever suits. 3. Low mounding shrubs or perennials at ea. side of steps help them look fitted in. 4. 4' ht. shrub at corner for helping the porch look fitted in. 5. Groundcover. Bringing it forward helps funnel visual focus toward the entrance. 6. Shrubs or perennials at the base of the tree strengthens its connection to ground and insulates the front view a little more from the back yard area. Not showing you all possibilities, just the basics--bed line & massing--of this view. It's loose. It's rough. You can refine it with details.

"What kind of trees and plants I can plant in august. Also what is the best way to make a garden with the AZ desert soil? Is it better to make a raised garden put my own soil or dig up and amend soil already there?" First nice and congratulations on your new home. Trees on the west side will cast shade on your home in the summer. Deciduous trees will drop leaf so the winter sun will shine through. The best trees to plant are ones around 4 feet tall. More importantly around 1/2" to 3/4" diameter near the base or above a graft point. Those you can transport in your car. I have had 22 trees in my jeep wrangler unlimited at one point (though they were bareroot). I wouldn't want to drive a long distance that way though. If you buy a tree(s) with leaves on them you will have to transport them inside a vehicle or well covered up. Driving over 40MPH will strip ALL of the leaves off quickly. I have has 15 five gal. containerized trees inside my jeep at one point. So .... LOL. These smaller trees do way better than big ones on transplant recovery and cost. August may be a good time of the year to plant trees or not in your area. Desert trees can be planted and do well in the hot parts of the year. But most other things you want in the ground either as soon as you get a break from the summer heat or as soon as winter ends. In Phoenix (where I reside) that is Oct and Jan. In Duncan adjust accordingly. It is either at the northern edge of the Chihuahuan desert or just north of there. Either way it means you get one rainy season July-August. A little snow in winter, but not much. 3,600 feet elevation will limit some of what you grow but surprisingly not much. You will want to hook up with like minded growers (probably almost everyone) to answer questions as to what can I grow and when do I plant it? When does spring show up? I am guessing you can't grow much in the winter but it is relatively short and will lend itself to cold storage. No point in reinventing the wheel. As to what do you want for your home? Native trees? Fruit and nut trees? Gardens? Farming? Soil should be tested at least once to see if there are deficiencies. From what I can see your soil may be very good indeed. Lots of vegetation. If any deficiencies are detected and you plan on a large swath of land being renovated, you would till in a supplement(s). I am of the opinion you want to do a no till or one time tilling as tilling destroys soil life. Good composting practice makes soil reusable forever with high fertility (if not right away eventually) and highly friable with good moisture holding ability. What is your source of water? wells? Municipal? Do you want to capture rainwater? Do you want to use your graywater? http://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/resourcefile/resource/vacoombs/deciduousfruittreesforupto3,500%27r%20evised042011.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1162.pdf If you want to do apple trees, this guy can ship you them in a box that fits in your mail box. I got 25 from him my first year and laughed wondering if the postman knew he just put 25 trees in my mail box. http://kuffelcreek.com/applenursery.htm You won't be getting fruit tree shipments until January through March however. You can get fruit and nut trees shipped via UPS/FedEx bareroot (ordering starts Sept-Oct) for Jan-March as well. I am guessing but you likely want fruit and nut trees with at least modest chill hours (800) to lessen chances of late frost taking blooms out. I see on average mid-Feb is last freeze date but freezes have occurred historically up to mid-May. Snow early mid-Dec to early March, but light if at all. It is currently 6 degrees cooler than Phoenix and some showers. Rainy season lasts a bit longer from July to mid-Oct, but still Jul-Aug heaviest. http://extension.arizona.edu/people-search-results?name=&office[]=438 See if any Master Gardeners or Coop Extension agents in your area. HomeDepot and Walmart can order for you or online order and free ship to the Safford store to hold for you. Hopefully someone from Safford, Duncan, Cliffton (or Lordburg, NM) reads this and responds with their thoughts though Internet connections are likely problematic in this area. Hughes Satellite/Phone line.

Gosh, nothing over 20'? How 'bout some Japanese Maples? Crape Myrtles look fantastic and offer amazing long-term color. Plus, they establish easily with 2-3' a years' growth, blooming some end of June -> end of September. What you can do fast are things you'll probably want to move. I did the same thing Suja did, but I'm not shy about digging something up and giving it away. I've moved trees a couple years after I planted them, and to date, (knock on wood, we'll see this spring) all of them are reestablished. 'Compacta' nandinas, some of the GORGEOUS new lemon yellow and bright green trees such as larches, the 'Golden Dawn' Redwoods, some of the cyprus, etc. I'd dig out those old beds and see where the old stone was laid. Organizing this into outdoor "rooms" can be immediately gratifying. Annuals, such as coleus, can supply immediate color. Oh - I've always babied these, keeping them in partial shade. Last year was a hard year for me and I just stuck them into the ground in what turned out to be HORRIBLE, DRY, HEAT and FULL SUN, where they grew into huge, colorful shrubs. Some were as tall as 3' in huge, flashy colors. I have also learned from experience never to buy a color if you haven't seen it with your own beady eyes. Crape Myrtles, Roses, etc., are always different than someone ele's eyes. I'd also immediately invest in the cone flowers mentioned in a thread below. They're instant color, excellent survival rates, too. If you can get down this way, our Spring Swap will send you home with so many plants you'll wish you'd brought a trailer. I wouldn't have the gardens I do if it weren't for these guys and the swaps! Good luck and welcome. :) Christine

No the valances, but its really too hard to give advice without pictures. What do you plan on doing in the room? Reading? Entertaining? Parties? That will determine what furniture you need and how to lay it out.