The aspect of rearranging a multitude of plants (of unknown quantities) you already have into other parts of the yard would be very complex, and therefore, difficult. It's not probable that you could get much comprehensive help by remote. You definitely have a knack for creating, ambition and some stock to work with. Even though certain aspects of the plan are a little funky looking by professional standards, what you've done nevertheless has charm and a certain homespun appeal that many people enjoy immensely. I don't mean any of that in any negative way. There are lots of lovely things around the world that are created like this. I would like to give you some food for thought as you progress with the project. Essentially, you are creating a functional piece of art. Because the main function is that of being a space that one is able to move through, it is easiest to think of it as a room or series of rooms (as you determine) that just happens to be outdoors. Therefore, it is made primarily of plants, dirt, trees and rocks ... those things that hold up well outdoors. Like inside, the room is made of "floor," "ceiling," "walls," "windows" and "doorways." If you were creating an indoor space, though you might have general ideas about them, you would not begin by dreaming about specific lamps, drapes, tables and chairs. You'd begin by thinking about window and door placements, wall textures and colors, trim and molding, floors and finishes, and how the ceiling will handle light. Later would come objects that go in the room that blend with the room itself: tables, chairs, lamps, rugs etc. For some odd reason, when we are creating outside space, people have the perpetual habit of falling in love with things ... objects (usually plants) that go in the room and start cramming the room full with their "pets" before they give much thought about the and architectural framework of the room itself. Outdoors, a tree or arbor creates a ceiling. A tree's canopy can not only seems like a roof, but also a very tall wall. Woody plants and vines can creates walls of whatever height one wishes. Sometimes they need extra support. Sometimes only trimming. Low growing, spreading plants create floors (as do rocks and earth.) Before thinking about irises, peonies and daffodils, it would be better to forget entirely about all the plants and concentrate on the forms, arrangements, heights and sizes that will define the room itself. You've all ready got a good start with a floor made of rock. Maybe it should be (visually) extended somewhat larger with a low growing, woolly looking mat of vegetation. It looks like you have begun a low wall already to separate the view into the neighbor's yard. Maybe a higher elevation "floor" (of plant material) should transition form the low floor to that wall. There are some good looking, freestanding "columns" (clean tree trunks ... very nice! ... almost palm tree like) to one side of the patio. Maybe each would look good resting on a circular base. You could begin by envisioning these "architectural" features of a plastic, formless material. (I once liked to think of everything being made of bread dough since it can take on any form.) Once the overall forms shape up, one could begin thinking about the specific character that will make up the forms. One might turn a ball of bread dough into a big leaf hydrangea, or a hedge of them. A pizza form that has been rolled out and placed next to the patio might become a bed of wild ginger or vinca minor ... it depends on what you like, what you have, the light and moisture conditions, and what you're willing to put up with. (Some plants have bad habits but they are so beautiful they must be tolerated!) You call the shots. I've gone on enough, but I think you get the general idea. Fall in love with the plants AFTER you know what you need and get those that can fill the bill. Sometimes a hedge can be a single plant material ... or it can be mixture of similar-sized plants, depending on the character that is desired. Usually, plant lovers can find a way to squeeze in -- in a sensible, artistic way -- most of the things they love. But if you don't do the architectural exercise first, you run the risk of creating something with a hodgepodge, cemetery-ish appearance ... with things sitting all over the place. It's good that you recognize the faults of the arbor. If it was at least 2' wider, a foot taller and made of beefier wood -- and painted! -- it would work better. I'll return with a hardscape suggestion when I get more time.

Hopefully my response comes across as helpful. Im not trying to be rude in any way. I do not think your statement of trying to obtain top of the line windows with mid grade pricing is realistic. Maybe listing out the requirements of your project will help you decide on a vendor and manufacture of window. Eliminate quotes out of your budget, should you have a budget. Eliminate any windows you dont like the looks of. Eliminate a company with a warranty you do not like. Granted it isnt my money but for me and my project i am going by aesthetics of of the window, followed by the quality of the installation, then price. I plan to live in my home indefinitely and want my windows and doors to last. If i have to look at them everyday i dont want to not like how they look.

Actually the term "open burner" typically refers to the space that is left around the burners on older (and current commercial) stoves that leads to a drip tray underneath. Prior to the emergence of sealed burner cooktops, open burner stoves ruled the market. In terms of performance, they were actually superior to the current sealed burner due to better oxygenation of the burner. While burning, they were supported by an oxygen updraft from underneath the cooktop. Nowadays the burner is sealed off and once the flame has consumed all oxygen under your pan the flame reaches out to the sides of your cooking vessel to find its oxygen to burn, thereby reducing its effectiveness at heating. This is why the sole use of BTU ratings to determine performance can be misleading when it comes to cooking. How much heat a burner generates and how much of that heat actually ends up transferring to your pan, well... those are two different things.

@Wes Hunt I believe Shiloh does an industry-standard post-catalyzed conversion varnish, so hopefully the finish will be more durable for you than Kemp would have been. As I'm sure you're aware, there are several different levels of pricing within the lines offered by W. W. Wood Products, Inc., Shiloh's parent company. Shiloh for some reason hasn't amassed many reviews around the web at the time of this writing outside of those on Houzz, but there are several threads here at Houzz that do discuss Shiloh's offerings and warranty fulfillment in depth. One of the things I've noticed is that people who went with the less expensive lines wished they had upgraded to the top Shiloh offering, and for people who did receive defective pieces, it was sometimes an issue getting satisfactory warranty service. If you are working with a reputable sales rep, hopefully they would take care of any issues you had promptly. Plenty of people have been very pleased with their Shiloh cabinetry. The tolerances on Shiloh's inset styles aren't as tight as you'd see from more expensive brands like Christopher Peacock or Kennebec according to some reviewers familiar with a wide range of brands, but for many people who want to save and yet still want that inset look, Shiloh does just fine for them. Of course, as you're aware, inset is not the only style Shiloh offers. I hope your project goes smoothly. Thanks for allowing the Houzz community to have input into your research process.