The range hood CFM will trigger MUA requirements. The bigger the CFM, the more MUA you need. So, you may want to talk to your HVAC person to see what would be required.

https://www.subzero-wolf.com/-/media/files/united-states/product-downloads/sub-zero-wolf/misc/ventilation-guide.pdf

They have a handy ventilation guide you can use for selecting this stuff. The above states that for a 36" range you'd need 800 CFM. You can probably use less but you probably won't want to use (and pay for ) more. A 1200 CFM hood will probably require a full active MUA system, which isn't cheap.

ETA: MUA requirements vary by state/area, but it's always required for CFM>300 or 350 (can't remember which). In my area (northern US) I would need heated makeup air, which adds significant cost. There was a MUA calculator in my state's code that helped calculate the MUA system needed based on the CFM, and it got expensive fast. Definitely make sure you understand what you need for the ventilation before you make these purchases.

And_p, in our area, anything over 400 cfm requires a MUA system. I talked to my contractor, and he said it's easy to install and to get what I want. We are redoing our HVAC and gutting the kitchen, so maybe that's' why it will be easy, rather than retrofitting into an existing kitchen.

So, I guess I don't quite follow the logic that the more CFM, the more expensive/complicated the MUA. But maybe I'm not understanding correctly.

MUA isn't a one size fits all. There are a lot of levels, all dependent on the cfm of your hood.
Passive systems don't require blowers, they're just basically a damper that opens and closes when your hood is on. Then you get active systems with remote blowers, and if you're in a northern climate, heated. And then there's duct size requirements, all based on the cfm. So, the higher the cfm, the bigger the duct, the more complex the system, the higher the cost.

As a first approximation, the CFM calculation is based on the flow rate at the entry aperture of your hood. And that directly depends on the area of that aperture.

Your hood should be designed so that it captures the entire expanding plume that rises from the cooking surface. That generally means an overhang of about 3" on each side. For a 36" range, that typically leaves you with a 42" x 24" hood (or preferably 42" x 27").

You want air velocity of 90ft/min to get a hood that actually keeps up with your cooking (largely independent of the number of burners used concurrently). For the estimated aperture size of 7 sqft, you would need an extraction rate of 630 CFM. Unfortunately, the spec plate of your hood gives you the maximum flow rate without accounting for any losses from ducts and make up air.

These loses can be quite substantial. They are a little hard to predict precisely, but a good rule of thumb would be adding 50% to make up for losses. That would be fine as long as you don't have very long ducts, lots of bends, or duct diameters below 8"

Applying this correction factor gets you to needing about nominal 950 CFM for a 36" range. And yes, you will need an active MUA system with its own blower. Go any lower than that and your vent hood won't be able to keep up with your cooking. Going higher can be necessary if cooking foods with very bursty smoke development (e.g. wok cooking). A large capture volume for the hood can help contain some of these bursts and is generally a good idea anyway. But at some point extra flow also helps.

We have a 1200 CFM blower over our 30" range and it does a great job eliminating all cooking smells. Often, I can turn it down, but there absolutely are meals when I need the full CFM.

"So, I guess I don't quite follow the logic that the more CFM, the more expensive/complicated the MUA. But maybe I'm not understanding correctly."

If we roughly distinguish active and passive MUA systems by whether they have a blower, or not, and otherwise both have dampers, heaters, and filters, then the reason for active is to keep the house interior pressure closer to the exterior pressure. Doing so reduces air pulled through walls and other leakage paths, not necessarily clean ones, and most importantly avoids back-drafting of combustion appliances -- if any and if they are in air path contact with the kitchen. Active systems require blower control, and this can vary from simple to complex.

Thus, MUA can become complicated, and complicated is always more expensive than simple. And we haven't even broached multiple exhaust fans affecting house pressure and what that implies.

In my view, if one is starting from scratch in home design, all combustion appliances that can be back-drafted should be in their own room with their own MUA and isolated from the house air. Then one can use a passive MUA that merely needs to be free flowing enough to keep the house pressure to outside pressure differential within a half-inch, w.c. (water column), perhaps. (This needs to be better quantified w.r.t. to wall leakage risk.) Fireplaces without perfect MUA will not tolerate such a pressure differential and if a nice fire while cooking up a storm is the hope, then active MUA -- probably with closed loop control -- will be a necessity.