hmm, looks like I have to seriously rethink this. Laceyvail I knew the phlox and rudbeckia would be a problem with the deer but thought the echinacea would be OK. Last year they ate my rudbeckia to the ground but did seem to leave the sedum & echinacea. Some good suggestions all, I will have to research and rethink. David sorry I forgot to mention how large! approximately 35 deep by 25 wide, with a 35 x 35 foot veggies bed, then on the right another 35 deep x 25 wide "square". Just to the left of all this is a hawthorn grove and the bed there curves out where I plan on putting in lilacs, mountain laurel, fothergilla, mahonia, some rhodos (yes I know, I'm going to try spraying them). The area I'm planning now is a bit of a challenge because it is so large and open but I don't want any trees or taller shrubs as they will shade the vegetable garden. Again, perhaps I need to rethink a 100% perennial bed (I never seem to get these to where I am happy with them). ALL my other beds are mixed shrubs / perennial and I am quite pleased with the results so far I was just hoping to do something different here. Ok, armed with some great advice (I love this forum!) I am going to rethink and do a lot more research on the net again. Thanks all, I'm sure I'll post my second try for some much needed advice again! Sharon

Kabby, I like the cool colors you're using in your mini bed. As for the Artemesias (artemisias?), in late winter/early spring when the weather is starting to turn the corner I whack my Powis Castle down to the ground. Even if we still get some freezing nights it doesn't seem to phase the new growth at that point. Then within a few weeks it clumps out tight and full just like the pics you've been seeing. I've had it 4 or 5 years now. The first year I didn't cut it back and it did get kinda' bare in the middle so I started doing the early cutback and haven't had a problem since. I was given my Limelight Artemesia at a plant trade and didn't realize it was actually called 'Oriental Limelight'. At least it looks like the same plant. Now I know lol! But just so you know, I have grown mine in bright full sun as well as part shade and it seems to do fine in both locations so long as it gets occassional watering. I've never had to baby it though. If you like its variegated look I personally wouldn't hesitate to plant it in a sunny spot, however it probably wouldn't be good for your front of the border area because it will grow 2-3 feet high unless you are prepared to keep cutting it back. Danielle

You have made great iris choices. Lots of gorgeous rebloomers- I love Clarence! I have never seen creamcups before. So precious! I especially love your gorgeous roses, though, and I think the arbor will look enchanting when the roses get a bit bigger. Love your Persian Berry :) Renee

My Iris do really well on my south facing slope. Most of the summer, it's dry, and they almost never get any shade. I have them stationed on the outside of my fence, next to the posts. In the fall, after they are done blooming... I try to divide them up, so eventually every fence post should have its own clump of Iris. Also on my south facing slope, with NO SHADE - ever...the lilacs (surprisingly) bloom consistently every spring. Even despite the occasional spring frosts that can take them off guard. My Sage, Catnip, and Thyme do okay there too... with the bonus that the smell really good. For later blooms in the summer...black-eyed susan's always show up. Same with the California poppies, sedums, pansy's - many of those plants can reseed themselves every year. I get 320 days of sunshine anually...but at this altitude, that sunshine is potent. Often, plants that typically thrive in full sun will FRY on my south facing slope. Even the grass dies if it gets too dry in the summer. Finding things that can survive there can be a challenge...but anything drought tolerant has the best odds. Other than that... adding a new layer of compost to the entire slope every year has worked wonders. Besides that, everything growing on my south slope gets surrounded by a fast draining mulch too... (except the pine trees, and in some cases...spaces where I'm intentionally trying to encourage erosion, etc.) Without that protective layer of mulch, whatever bare soil does not erode away by August... takes on the consistency of hard baked pottery, which is no fun to work with. Just some ideas... Leslie