Homemade potting mix
Becky R
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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Homemade potting mix with readily available materials
Comments (9)For years and years I used a bagged potting soil, or thought I was doing my plants a favor by mixing the usual extras into bagged potting soils... and then I read the article linked below... and my entire outlook on container growing changed. I wish I had read the information included decades sooner! I wish I had known the basic science so much sooner! I don't mind going a little bit out of my way to locate the ingredients for a medium mix that will allow my plants to grow optimally. It actually wasn't that difficult to locate what I need. I use it for everything, from seed starting to cacti, from bulbs to orchids, from trees to annuals and perennials. I grow everything in it. I use a rendition of the basic recipe for Gritty Mix. I use fir bark, a coarse perlite, and crushed granite chips... all available rather locally. I'd prefer to use turface instead of the perlite, but I don't have any at the moment. It's on my list for spring shopping! Organic items and methods are great for growing outdoors in garden beds, but do not necessarily make for healthy container plantings. It's actually better to go with a more inorganic medium and growing methods within the confines of containers. Outdoors, Mother Nature uses an army of worms, nematodes, bacterias, fungi, and other microscopic critters to help decompose matter into usable food for plants, to aerate the soil, and to maintain a balance of good and bad, shall we say. This same army is not present within a container, and it's impossible to maintain the balances required. This is the simplified reason why inorganic is better for container growing. What we want to do in a container is help maintain a good level of aeration, keep the medium from compacting quickly, and we want to maintain control of moisture and nutrition. With a more inorganic medium, we can do these things. Plants actually intake water in vapor form, and they require fresh oxygen at root level. With a grittier medium, these things are possible. The larger particles help to maintain those tiny air pockets, and because the items are mostly inorganic, they don't compact at a fast rate. Actually, all the information necessary for growing great containerized plants is in the linked article. Here is a link that might be useful: Container Soils - Water Movement & Retention 12...See More5-1-1 mix cleanliness??
Comments (18)One of the things that rarely gets discussed is the fact that a plant's defense 'system' is linked directly to it's vitality. Vitality is roughly it's state of health. Plants are much like people, in that their energy levels, fitness, stress levels, all play a part in how able they are to resist things like insects and disease. Defense is energy driven, and the greater the amount of stored energy or the faster current energy is being produced and used (metabolism), the better able the plant is to resist stress and strain. We know an athlete's immune system operates at a higher level than that of an overweight couch potato. Root health is also inextricably connected to plant health and vitality, and in that, connected directly to a plant's ability to resist the attacks of insects and disease. In the case of FGs, they are very closely associated with heavy soils and the over-watering that so often goes part & parcel with them, so changing soils and watering habits is key. At issue, is the problem of HOW to eliminate an environment that favors gnats w/o resorting to watering in sips to keep prolonged soil saturation out of the picture. The easiest way, of course, is to adopt a soil that eliminates the need to water in sips AND allows you to water copiously and still not be concerned about root rot OR gnats. The HUGE added plus is that the highly aerated soils can at all times, even at container capacity (when fully saturated) provide a soil environment, the volume of which is always 100% root friendly, which brings us full circle to roots' connection to plant health/vitality and plants' ability to resist insects and disease. I've posted these 'Whitcombisms' before. They were gleaned from the works of Dr Carl Whitcomb, PhD, who wrote what is probably the bible on growing plants in containers. Some "Whitcomb-isms": "If the root system ain't happy, ain't no part of the plant happy" "Roots control the tree, the stems and branches just think [not my emphasis] they are in charge." "The more roots to share the load, the faster the dirty work gets done" "Roots provide the fuel for the plant engines we call leaves" "Each root tip casts a vote to decide what the top will be allowed to do" "Top growth gets all the glory, but the roots do all the dirty work" He also notes that "Stress can ALWAYS be measured in the root system before symptoms appear in the top [of the plant]". Al...See MoreLooking for homemade potting mix ingredients in Bellingham
Comments (3)pine bark fines are commonly available in the southern states. Up here, you're more likely to find fir, hemlock, maybe even redwood is more a California sort of thing....See MoreThanks Eggo! Container growing Tropical Fruits
Comments (12)I've never seen root rot on a jaboticaba. Mine, which are in ground of course, are in the lowest point in my entire property. There have been some multi-day rain events that have left standing water in this area for a full 10 days without any root issues. During dry season, I'll let the hose run completely flooding the area. That doesn't leave any standing water for more than a day, but I usually have to do it a day or two in a row before flowering commences. Good luck. Harry...See MoreBecky R
3 years agodaninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoBecky R thanked daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 years agodaninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoLabradors
2 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
2 years agomblan13
2 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
2 years agoalexcm [z6a]
2 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)