Well, this one is a longshot, Daven. You do not mention which model Samsung you have, but there are about 50 Samsung refrigerator control boards on ebay for sale right now ranging in price from $45 to about $200. So you may not be looking at quite the expense you anticipate. However -- and this is a big however -- the logic board may not be the real problem. The fault could be induced by a secondary peripheral issue, a bad motor, shorting wire in the harness, etc. That is why I hesitate to recommend a simple logic board swapout unless you can definitely isolate the problem to the board alone, either through a thorough diagnostic check, or by symptom matching, e.g., known problem, high failure rate component, well-documented symptoms, and a high probability fix. Anyway, this may be TMI for you if you are certain you want to simply replace the unit, and who could blame you for that? It's just that there is no panacea brand to recommend. For instance, I have had great luck with our LG, but the reports from people who have had failures with them are atrocious. For that reason I could not recommend an LG, even though ours has been great. antss's recommendation of a subzero is right on the money, if you can afford it. You get the best quality but it costs thousands more. In the end I think any brand you buy has the potential to break. If you do buy a new unit, perhaps you should look at an extended warranty for it. (Shop around for that, Square Trade has a good reputation and may prove cheaper than a store-offered extended warranty. Best of luck and sorry about your fridge troubles.

I had an almost identical situation to yours, but for different reasons. I have a 30" deep wall that surrounds my chimney in the living room so my fridge wall had to be 30" deep. I went with 30" deep base cabs and 24" uppers to the right of the fridge. I also had them make my over the fridge cabinet 30" deep. This may seem crazy--BUT I love the depth. I have my giant occasional use things shoved back there--mainly seasonal stuff that gets rotated. Right now its full of all the summer picnic items, outdoor wire chafing frames all that stuff...But if you don't want a 30" deep cabinet I would definitely have them pull the 24" forward and get a 30" deep panel. You'll have a much easier time opening that upper and the fridge will look more built in if they bring it forward. I have a 30" panel to the right of my fridge, and on the other side I actually put a bookcase facing the other room, but also the full depth. Here are some pics.

I really like what you've decided on! I also agree...you're right on the refrigerator location for all the reasons others have stated. I also like the idea of extending the cabinets to the bench...it forms a sort of window seat that way. You could put pillows on the cabinet end and sit w/your feet up in front of the window. You get both a banquette & window seat! To the right of the refrigerator I would suggest adding a Message Center for mail, phone, etc. It's the spot everyone will be walking by for a mail/key drop, a central location for the phone (near kitchen/DR/LR), & a charging station. To me, it's an ideal location for charging cell phones b/c you walk by it on the way out, get your keys, and "oops, can't forget the cell phone!" I have to put mine where I practically stumble over it in order to remember it (which is why I will never have a hidden charging station!) You could put a calendar in a shallow upper cabinet there or have a regular upper cabinet and put the calender inside the door or on the outside wall facing the doorway. Everything looks great! Good luck!

I would seriously consider separate MW & vent hood. OTR MWs are not very effective as vents and very inconvenient to use b/c (1) they're so high off the floor and (2) you have to reach over a potentially hot cooktop to get into it to stir or place/remove items...which also means you're in the way of someone working at the cooktop. I think you have enough of space for them. As to the cooktop wall...you have 10' to play with... 36" for corner + 30" cooktop + xx + 38" for refrigerator + 6" b/w pantry door & end of cabinet/counter run = 110" That leaves you with 10" b/w the refrigerator & cooktop. So, unless you're OK with only 10" of workspace on the one side, I don't think the refrigerator will fit on that wall. But, if you put it in #2 and put a prep sink in the island it will greatly improve the functionality of having the refrigerator over there; it mitigates most of the issue I have with the "barrier island" since it's not a barrier for the cooktop, just the main sink. Of course, you lose the nice "Baking Center" w/ovens next to larger expanse of counter. Some things to think about. The prep sink will also increase your potential prep area by having 2 water sources. I've done a rough mockup of both ideas. Oh, I would not go w/the diagonal cab/counter int the corner if you move the cooktop next to it. I'd rather have a little "breathing room" b/w the sink wall counter & the cooktop. You'll see what I mean in the pics. But, b/f we get to the pictures, the DW placement is a concern. If it's to the left of the sink it will interfere w/anyone at the cooktop...they'll be backing into an open DW and believe me, that hurts (especially the corners!) See what I mean (red square is the open DW door and the red circles are the work areas for the cooktop & sink). I think the DW would be better on the other side. You could put an 18" trash pullout to the left of the sink...maybe move the sink & DW to the left to have a little more room for a 12" drawer bank b/w the corner & trash pullout. Here are the two ideas I talked about above: Notice there isn't much room b/w the cooktop & refrigerator. But you have a nice Baking Center. Here's w/the refrigerator in position #2. More potential prep area b/c of the prep sink.