What state are you in? All zone 8's are not created equal. I am going to say that overwatering is one of your problems. The tomato plant looks like "toast" to me and I would recommend starting over. The lettuce looks fine and the pepper should be on life support. Here in Western Oregon Zone Eight we are having unseasonably warm and dry weather. But it is still too early to put out unprotected tomato plants. Those nights when it was "37ish" it might have been colder in your garden and the tomatoes don't like a chill and will react as in your photo. (FYI: if you put your zone and location in your profile, it will appear on all your posts and give everyone a better chance to help)

hey bonnie thanks for posting. it snowed this last weekend so i didn't get a chance to go check the names and make sure they all survived the winter. i'll get back with you by thursday if thats ok?

Some of the simplest tools are the handiest. You can purchase from almost any hdw. store a "tick" tester. Some are proximity and others are significant. The proximity "tick" anytime voltage is present, when touched to a wire/cord. The significant will "tick" when voltage is present in individual wires of a cord. The 240V dryer cord generally are not wound and encased in a jacket, but appear as flat and molded with the center being the grnd/neutral and either side the hots. If you find that one or both have no voltage present, some appliance repair people are familiar with working behind a dead front panel, in a service, and could change a faulty breaker. Ask.

Hi Rachel, I agree with previous poster, and would add that watering every 3 days is too frequently for succulents in almost any conditions. Exceptions might be plants in grit (non-soil media akin to cat litter); plants that are very pot-bound, or plants in terra cotta that are in direct sun and high temperatures all day. For a plant in soil like yours, a once-weekly soaking is more than adequate. I agree that a soil change would be helpful. A 1:1 or 2:1 mix of potting soil and perlite will help it to drain and dry out faster, which succulents prefer. A south-facing window is preferable in most climates, but acclimate them First, and don't leave them in direct sun until the roots have had time to colonize the new soil- at least several weeks. Depending on where you live, east or west windows will also work. North-facing windows rarely, if ever, provide enough light for succulents. The smaller plant appears to be a Sedum, burro's tail, I think. On my small screen, it looks like all but the new leaves are a bit shriveled. They should be fat and turgid like grapes. I suspect the roots have died back from too much water/inadequate drainage. When you pull the plants to change the growing medium, examine the roots. They shoukd be white, firm, and profuse. I think you'll find small roots just around the stem, and many of those will be mushy, grey, or shriveled. If they appear that way, it will confirm the over-watering/poor soil hypothesis. Post some photos and someone can let you know if you're unsure. So, new soil, less frequent watering, a pruning or re-start for the Echeveria, plenty of light, and minimal fertilizer shoukd GI e you healthier plants in a couple of months.