Amen, Glenn. I started when I was 12 helping Dad on weekends and evenings when Mom worked. At 15, I helped during evening weekends, and summer vacations (and getting paid!) when he went out on his own. At 17, I went to the Armstong School of Resilient Installation to learn all that I could, which was before certifications. They confirmed shool completions back then but didnt "certify" as they do now. All my life I have been taught on the job and Dad pulled me aside when other co-workers and his bosses did things inappropriately to save time and cut corners, telling me this isnt the way you should do this, but we do what we have to when we work for someone else. Every facet from pattern scribing inlaid resilient sheet in a room full of pipes and old radiators, all the way down to professionally and expertly installing vinyl/rubber cover base corners. Nothing was too big or too small to do right. At 21, me and Dad had a falling out in business. He had his own busienss now doign commercial and residential subcontract work and was becomming like so many others we laughed at and despised for doing shoddy work to make a buck, then I went out on my own. I am not maligning my Father. I love Him and he taught me pretty much evrything I know, but I couldnt do the work he was asking me to do anylonger when I knew it wasnt right. He had changed. Business had changed him. Money and time was becomming more important that job quality. Business certainly isnt easy, but a time comes when it's either right or its wrong, with little middle ground. Whhen professionals hit that crossroad, then take the wrong path, it changes them, and each time they elect that improper path, it makes the next crossroads easier and easier to take the wrong path, until the day comes that money and time means more than giving people who trust use with their work a professional job. I am an advocate of installer and buiness educataion no matter how they go about obtaining it, whether that be on the job, through a mentorship, union apprentiship, manufacturer or distributor training session, or certification. If certifications are the only way they can get proper training, they shoud go get it. Consumers need to step up and make a fuss when anything isnt exactly how they want it to be. We live in a low cost wallmart and home depot world, where as long as the price is right, they can live with almost anything. As an employer, I instill in my men and women the same installation and customer service values my Dad originally instilled in me, and I demand that on every job. I believe much of the talent has moved to the commercial spectrum too. Its where the money is at. Interesting you should say that (about commercial work getting the good men). When I left Dad, I went all commercial for about 10-11 years before we started opening up stores. Did alot of traveling and made alot of money. Now we bring those values and quality to the residential sector. In the end if something isnt done right, it doesnt matter why.

My son-in-law said the same thing. I have 2 small blocks All Marble and Granite gave to me in case I ever needed to match the granite. That should have been a red flag. Can you recommend a granite place ? I found 2 more (for repair) and both said NO! There is a back splash and they gave me a ledge on the window sill. Can you believe I never looked under the sink before and saw the wooden blocks? I will also call my contractor since he deals with granite people. I should have had him oversee this. As I said, my girlfriend found a smaller polaris sink. I am so fed up, I am thinking, if I have to replace the granite, I will use my corian overmount sink that I still have from when I had a laminate counter top.

Talk to a bunch of tile pros and you'll hear both sides on this topic. I follow what I was taught which is that any joint that has a change of plane gets caulked. Your case is a bit different in that the tile won't follow the change of plane - you're probably fine using either. I do find it easier to get a nice caulk line in a corner that to try to get a pretty grout line in a corner.

If it works for you, that's good enough for me. What brand do you use? Is it water cleanup or paint thinner cleanup? Most marine varnish says for exterior. If you call the phone number on the can, they can tell you if it is correct for interior but like I said, if you've had success with it then that's what to do. You have to like it. In any case, nitro cellouse lacquer has lacquer thinner as the carrier. There is also a waterborne lacquer. For your purpose I would suggest the waterborne type. It is more impervious to water after it dries. Some water based finishes require sanding between coats and some don't, but make sure you follow the instructions on the can concerning what stain to use and surface prep. For sanding between coats you could 220 sand paper or the pads put out by 3M (they are like kitchen scratch pads and come in different grits). You just need a light sanding to get purchase for your next coat or lightly sand out runs. If you use a tack rag, use one made for waterbase finishes. If you want to brush on the waterborne finish I suggest General Finishes products. They are expensive but are more user friendly than products like Varathane. You can go to their site on the web and get a lot of information. If you want to use aerosol cans, I suggest Deft waterborne spray. If you choose one of these methods, there is a cardinal rule you should follow. Don't pratice on the piece you are refinishing. Get as large of a piece of the type of wood you are refinishing as you can and pratice on that. There is a learning curve but not one you can't surmount. The hardest part for me was always taping off. You want to tape in a sequence so you are not applying tape over a newly painted surface. I said to stain before installing so if you don't totally get off all the clear caulk, it won't show up as a light spot on the finished molding. If you decide to use areosol, then just get one can and pratice on your pratice board. If you decide to hire someone to spray, have them use Hydrocote Resisthane Plus, and tell them not to thin it. I don't think you need to hire someone. If you like brushing then take your time and use the General Finishes products or use what you used on your other molding. Make sure you locate and mark your studs and predrill the nail holes in both moldings with a drill bit a little smaller than your nails diameter so you don't split the wood.