Khalid: Your Michelangelo is stunning & gorgeous color-blend. LOVE THAT !! Port Sunlight (deep orange) and Molineux (yellow/orange) are known to be LOW in thorns & smaller & compact bush with little scent. Golden Celebration is wider-spaced large thorns. http://www.helpmefind.com/rose/l.php?l=21.225184 If it has very large thorns but wider-spaced apart, and vigorous & big bush, it could be Crown Princess Mag. (medium fruity scent large climber with thick stem). Below is cluster of Crown Princess Mag. in June, I used sulfate of potash, resulting in cluster-blooming. Crown Princess starts deep orange-yellow, but fades to lighter yellow. But when I compare my CPM leaves to your "Golden Celebration", My CPM' leaf is bigger & darker & more elongated, versus roundish & smaller Golden Celebration or Teasing Georgia leaves. Bloom color changes, with high-phosphorus fertilizer or compost, blooms shift to the red-zone, resulting in apricot/orange, rather than yellow. Since I used sulfate of potash (high potassium) my CPM is yellowish, rather than deep orange. CAUTION: sulfate of potash, anything high in potassium tend to BLEACH blooms. One fall I put too much sulfate of potash on W.S. 2000 and the blooms became whitish, rather than deep red/purple. UP the potassium, you'll lower phosphorus (needed to shift bloom to red-zone). Below is your "Golden Celebration" which I copied here to compare:

GreenThumb0306 & Violet Verbina, not to overstate what might seem obvious, but the best regional recommendations might be found at a good local nursery. While I'm sure everyone in the forum has their own personal favorites (I'm a huge fan of mangroves myself) the number of solid suggestions you get that are really a good fit for your location might be few, or might be a little more based on conjecture. Maybe it's worth taking a trip to a nursery to browse a bit and then, if you have any questions about a particular plant, post those more specific questions. I bet there's a lot of great insight to be had if you narrow the scope of the question just a bit. Good luck with whatever you choose!

I live in Jacksonville zone 9A, only a few miles southeast of the 8b border. I have an orange tree and a ruby red grapefruit tree that have both survived 9 degree nights (I checked the weather records, the trees are at least 25 years old, so I was able to look up the lowest temps they'd been exposed to.) Most winters we will drop into the mid 20's to upper 20's for at least a week at night, with an occasional drop into the teens that happens once every few years. My neighbor has a tree of a similar age, it is a swingle citrumelo now because the scion froze and only the rootstock survived. The reason why my trees are alive is because they are on their own roots. They are not grafted, someone grew them from a seed. When the tree is ungrafted, unless the earth the roots are in freezes solid, they will come back from the roots even if everything above ground is killed off. I would recommend experimenting with rooted cuttings of anything you'd like. Seeds may be better, I think you'll be more likely to find something that can live on its own, but they will not fruit for 5-10 years, so it depends on your patience. I think just fruits and exotics sells certain types of citrus ungrafted, they sold me a variegated eureka lemon and said those worked better with no rootstock. Many of your plants will die due to the soil conditions on your property. Those that can tolerate your soil should be planted on the south side of your house, and frame protected when young. When they get too big for that, just watering them well before a freeze should save them 95% of the time. The difficult part will be finding something that can grow in your soil with no graft. Once you do, the cold is much less of a problem than for a grafted tree. One warning-- most citrus is dwarfed by the rootstock, my ungrafted grapefruit is 25 feet tall and about 15 feet wide. Think about space considerations and the eventual spread of the canopy and roots when planting close to your house, as citrus roots can be invasive.

Just as I suspected... I found this: " Chandler fruits are seedy when cross-pollinated by citrus fruits with viable pollen and seedless when grown in a solid block or in proximity to citrus fruits that are pollen sterile, such as navel oranges and Satsuma mandarin. " http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/chandler.html It appears that Satsuma mandarin trees are very poor pollinizers, which explains why your grapefruit has not been developing any seeds. (You said there were 3-4 Satsuma mandarin trees on your street)