Fertliser should only be fed to healthy citrus trees.If you tree looks sick,you should not feed it until it looks healthy.When the tree is sick,its under stress.When a tree is too wet its under stress.So,the motto is dont feed a tree when its suffering from stress.Feed lightly and often,when it is putting out new growth(Always water mix first before you feed to save rootburn).At others times,save your fert!!If there is too much fert in the soil,the nutrients will pass from the plants to the stronger solution in the soil.You should flush your pot 3 times a year with luke warm filtered water to wash out salts and byproducts of digestion by the tree.Its better to feed at half strength,than feed a lot at once(could burn roots).I have 12 trees in pots.Only three of them are putting out new growth at present,those are the ones i am feeding.The rest,i just water heavily,when the mix is almost dry.If you have been over watering,it may take time for the plant to recover and start to look better.Citrus just hate wet feet.48 hours or more of saturation and the roots start to suffer.Young trees are particularly vulnerable due to their small rootball.Good luck.

I decided to run a water line from my veggie bed, that is on a timer. I will get a section of drip hose for this tree and hopefully it would not get too much water. I am putting up a shade for it and mulch like crazy. I don't have a second water faucet to put a second timer near by, the other one is all the way on the opposite side of the house, so i will require more hose to run the line. I got some dogs that will not let anyone in the back yard if i don't walk in with them so house sitting is not an option. thanks guys for commenting. I will let you know how the tree fared after i come back.

Rob, Mrtexas is correct, classic sign of freeze damage to the bark and possibly the cambium. It won't necessarily show up until the affected areas begin to swell with more fluid and begins to expand, as your weather warms up. So, I would suspect the damage was done, and as your weather heats up, the cracks are expanding. I would check with your local extension office about how to protect young fruit trees from frost damage. If you can preserve the trunk above the graft line, even trees that have lost their entire canopy can come back, as long as the trunk is undamaged. To protect the tender trunks now in the summer, you will want to paint your trunks and exposed branches with regular flat, white latex house paint diluted in 1/2 with water. That will help to reduce sunscald as well as protect from boring insects. Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: UC Davis: Rehabilitation of Freeze-Damaged Citrus and Avocado Trees

John, I know not all mites are created equal :-) I'm a Master Gardener, and have some knowledge about pests and their beneficial predators. I'm not an expert by any stretch, either, and not an entomologist by a long, long stretch (I'm a nurse, actually). But from everything I can find, and I have looked at about 10 sites, the Montdorensis is teeny, tiny. And they don't seem to look anything at all like these large green bugs which appear to be about a 1/4" long. Montordrensis appear clearish. Not with this very distinct, green hard shell. I looked through the link you included, and the only photo I can see for this predator mite is the one I have in my post above. Where are you seeing these gigantic predator mites (relatively speaking, as mites for the most part, and very, very tiny) on the link you provided? I must be missing the photos. Willing to be educated. Patty S.