Mineral Oil vs Other Oils for Protecting Metal Tools?
westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years ago
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westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Air compressor: Which to choose Oil filled or oil free design
Comments (26)I worked in the auto-body and paint trade since 1953. Learned a lot about the equipment what to use, how big, what CFM. I learned that most any compressor will put out 100 lbs, more or less. I learned that for a job of painting anything with a spray gun requires a continuous level of air pressure, while using the spray gun. The air compressor has to put out enough CFM to keep the air line to the spray gun at the pressure that gun needs to atomize the liquid while spraying That said: Yes-you can buy an inexpensive, say 75-125 dollar compressor that advertises it will put out 125 lbs air pressure, but, if the CFM is low, it'll only be good for airing tires, or blowing dust off something. You'll do a lot of waiting for it to catch up on the air pressure, if you are painting anything large. I haven't read what "The air tool guy" Has to say. I'd be willing to bet that his comments may be like mine. I had to leave the trade after they started using isocyanates in the paints. I'd go into wheezing and coughing fits, to where I'd have to stop in the middle of a paint job, and go outside for fresh air. Ya see, the paint companies didn't tell us at first, of the dangers of the new paints that had the isocyanates in them, and that stuff would go right thru the old mask filters. Independents, like the ones I worked for, didn't want to buy the expensive filters, etc. that was required, and it was five years later that we got info on the iso's , and how bad they were for our lungs! TMHO: Rusty Jones( I got so bad-if I stopped at the local gas station, and the paint shop across the street was spraying, I'd have to get my gas someplace else!...See MoreSummit Year-Round Oil vs Organocide
Comments (3)Try to use it in the morning before the sun is too hot. I wouldnt use any oil when the sun is out. As far as it being hot, it depends on how hot? As long as it "dries" before it gets too hot, I dont see a problem. But then again too hot can be a problem with most things. That is what I think messed my plum up. I sprayed it on the under side of the leaves and the sun got to it with the wind. Every spot turned into a stain or scorch. I dont know if it was from the sun, wind, or that my plum just didnt like organocide. For citrus, I now use it on new growth to protect against disease. It is good against other pests too but I can pick off most bugs by hand....See Moretung oil vs. linseed oil
Comments (7)If you go with tung oil or linseed oil you might want to make sure they are 100% pure and food safe--sometimes mixes containing solvents are sold as tung oil or linseed oil. I have heard but don't know for sure that heavy metals are added to boiled linseed oil to make it dry faster. Here is a link that might be useful: Food-Safe Finishes...See Morebutcher block-To oil or not to oil? That is the question.
Comments (14)Do Not Oil Your Butcher Block. What I am talking about here is an end grain butcher block. I am not talking about wood kitchen counters, but a working tool. You cut and chop meat and vegetables on it. I do not mean to be unkind but wood is not a "living, breathing thing". It is dead. Living wood is commonly referred to as a tree. Your butcher block does not breathe. What it does do is expand and contract with changing humidity levels. You can think of wood as a bunch of soda straws. These fibers will get fatter and thinner as they gain and loose moisture but will not get longer (so much). The problem is that this gaining and losing of moisture can cause cracking, correctly called "checking". By the time you get your butcher block the wood has already been dried and glued together. If your butcher block checks after you bought it there is nothing you can do about it, it is responding to its environment. I do not want to get into the causes of checking but if you are trying to prevent it by impregnating it with oil please be advised that your efforts are not very effective. I would go so far as to say that oiling the wood, in order to prevent transmission of moisture is completely ineffective. For a thorough explanation of the subject you may want to read "Understanding Wood" by Bruce Hoadly. There is really no practical way to prevent the transmission of moisture in wood in your home, and therefore no reason to oil it. Personally, I think oiling a butcher block is a bad idea. While oiling does improve its appearance it also attracts dust and dirt. I regularly renew the surface of my butcher block by scraping, and every once in a while, by sanding with a 6" random orbit sander and 60 grit pad. Oiling makes it almost impossible to sand, as the oil will gum up the sandpaper. If you want to keep your butcher block in good shape, both functionally and cosmetically, you really need to buy and learn to use a cabinet scraper. Youtube is good for learning this. It is entirely possible to remove even severe stains with a scraper. I know this advice about oiling runs contrary to everything I have ever found online but if anyone can present a rebuttal I would like to hear it....See Moretropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
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3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
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