I'm in central NY, and it gets pretty cold (below zero most winters) and usually 90-100 in the summer. would I lay a vapor barrier down then blow in the insulation? How would I properly secure the hatch once I'm done so critters can't get into the house from the hole,and to avoid heat loss at that access hole? How do I know where joists are so I'm not randomly poking holes. And if it's plaster on the ceiling, then what? I'm fortunate to know the owner before the PO, and I know they put sheetrock over the plaster. Sorry about all the questions, but I don't want to get in too deep and have to call the "Over my Head" crew from HGTV or DIY network!! :-)

I posted before about using tigerfoam. I used in in my addition. My garage ceiling was sheetrocked by my builder, and I'm sure he did the least he could get away with. Part of my bedroom is over the garage. I'm thinking that they didn't used to build living space over garages before. Now we all see why. If someone could figure out how to retrofit insulation onto a sheetrocked garage ceiling, that would be great. For stockrex, you don't have to fill the entire space for the Tigerfoam to be effective. Just a few inches will probably stop the air leaks. Then, you can fill the rest with the same batting that you take out, if it's clean. I think that it's best to figure out where the airleaks are coming from first. My powder room shares a wall with my garage. It was always cold before we renovated, but now it's freezing. When I had a wall mount sink installed, I decided to have an access panel behind it in the garage. Cold air was flowing in through the electric plug. I sealed that. It's better, but the walls are still very cold.

Geez marie! $90,000 to do an attic! Now I have once again confirmation about why I love to cross the border and compete with Boston contractors and remodelers! Hoo-weee! What are you putting up there? Gilded ceilings? Sauna and master bath? Full automation? Alright alright, I'm being snide. In all truth, its hard to say, because so many issues come into play, such as structural, in attics you have height limitations, maybe dormers might be needed, roof expansion, stairs, blah blah. But still... Call some contractors and ask them to come out and give you an estimate. You don't have to hire anyone. Look for referrals and remember the big contractors have a lot of overhead and sometimes are not always the best either. Us little guys will sweat for you all day too you know! But be careful there are greedy people and shisters around. I'll spare you my lecture on licensing and all that. But: 1) Ask for and check references. Go and look at their work. 2) Ask to view their current job and visit it and talk to the owners. 3) Ask for licensing if required. 4) Ask for membership in national organizations like NARI or NAHB-Remodeler's Council. 5) Ask to see a sample of their contract and warranty. If they don't have a written contract or warranty, steer clear. 6) Dont accept obnoxious, pushy or cheezy. Push high pressure salesman away. There, I couldnt help it.

Hi. Couple of things: Is this a very old house, i.e., had joined, minimal struture, no consideratin of insulation requirements...? 1. All appliances, bathrooms, sources of moisture MUST be mechanically vented, period, and vented outside, not to attics or eaves. This is critical! 2. The attic space must have a way in for the air or the fan will suck the moist house air through it, to condense on the roof and rafters; 3. Check for roof leaks, bad flashing, just in case this is a bad roof issue; 4. The side roof/walls (top of the gambrel) are too thin for good insulation, and are not moisture resistant or vented. If the insulation is fiberglass, it must be vented or extremely well sealed (almost impossible), especially at a bathroom (see #1); 5. You may well have to take extreme measures. Based on your description, I would suggest removing the interior wall/celing finishes and the now-wet insulation and using a closed cell spray foam insulation. This is impermeable, will not pass moisture and will exceed any r-value of other products. This may seem extreme (it is) but the moisture, mold and rot will do it for you if you don't. Please note that the roof sheathing must be inspected and replaced if rotted; 6. The earlier suggestion of drilling the 2x6 "mid-ridge" might help if the bottom of the eaves can get a soffit vent like a circular vent in each rafter bay or continuous strip vent installed, and if the insulated upper portions have a channel between the insulation and roof sheating and the main ridge can get a vent (or perhaps a small gable vent with a fan if there is a small attic space at the ridge. But this puts you into step 5 for a better result. Good luck. This is extremely serious (as I am sure you know)and will be a lot of work to fix right. But if you do it well, your energy costs will drop, and your roof won't rot away. Also, if your recessed lights are going into unconditioned space like the attic floor, they must be air-tight and insulated cans, not standard units.