What led you to believe root rot was the issue?

how did you go about repotting? Did you remove all soil from in and around the roots or did the stick the soil mass with roots intact into a larger pot with fresh soil on the bottom and sides? The latter would be potting up.

what you use for soil? If you fully repotted, did you keep the roots moist while out of soil?

I see no indication from the photo of root rot. I would push the plant to the right and open the curtains. Give it as much light as you can.

water as it needs it, not on a schedule and use the dowel method to check the soil before watering.

It's not unusual for long periods of repressed root function to cause ruination of a plant's foliage, even when there is no fungal pathogen infecting the root system.

I too am interested in the answer to Dave's questions re repotting vs potting up, and would also have asked if he hadn't, this, because they're different procedures and yield different results. Potting up can be done any time with little concern for an adverse turn toward decline, even though it's best to do it in very late spring or very early summer, unless the plant is circling the drain and intervention is a necessity. Repotting, which is more stressful initially but yields far superior results ultimately, should be a regular part of your tree's maintenance. Repotting includes bare-rooting, root-pruning, and a change of soil, and should be performed sometime around Father's Day or the Summer Solstice if you live in North America. The plant will recover much faster if any heavy work is planned for the point in the growth cycle when the plant should have ample energy reserves and it's ability to carry on photosynthesis (make food) is about to peak. Since a plants natural defenses are linked to its metabolic rate, repotting when the plant is at its most robust makes sense.

What Dave said about using a wooden dowel (a "tell") is also something I'd've suggested. The advice to water when the top inch or two of the grow medium is dry is ok if the pot is 5" deep or less, but the baseline of watering when there is 2" of dry medium in a 10" pot more often than not is a recipe for over-watering, and I'm not just talking about Ficus. There can still be more than 6" of 100% saturated medium in a 10" deep pot when the top 2" of the soil column is dry; so, habitually using that metric to to determine when it's time to water is almost certain to end up seriously sapping a very large measure of a plant's potential in areas like growth, vitality, yields (for crops), and appearance.

Using a 'tell'

Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant.

Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor.

In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water.

Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'.

One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue.

Al

I believed there was root rot because brown spots started showing up on all the bottom leaves around the edges and at the base of the stems. They started expanding and getting worse as days went on and leaves started falling on their own. Brown spots are still showing up on different leaves, I’ll link a photo.

i tried to remove as much soil as I could from the roots during repotting but I did not rinse them so there was still leftover soil from the previous time. I did start with soil on the bottom and the sides and packed It down then placed the root ball with more soil. I did repot with fresh soil but I did not keep the roots moist while they were out of soil.😓 I’ll attach a photo of the soil I used.

This is the soil I used. Honestly, I’m not sure if it’s a good soil for figs. :/ I’m new to repotting and my local nursery sold this to me.

Also, the lighting my fig gets is from a west window. Is that sufficient?

I'm not saying it isn't possible the roots of your plant aren't infected with one of the pathogens commonly grouped under the heading of damping off fungi, but what the 3 images above show aren't typical of what leaves would look like if there was a fungal infection or even suppressed root function in play. Typically, leaf tips and the leaf's margins/outer edges are first affected; this, because the plant's most distal tissues (leaf tips/margins) are normally first affected when the roots' ability to efficiently move water are impacted. Those leaves look more like they would if sunburn (photo-oxidation) or chill injury was a factor, or, if something was used topically that proved phytotoxic. In the case of the later, using dishsoap or a household cleaner on the leaves, or some sort of spray the vehicle or active ingredient of which caused a conspicuous reaction would be suspects.

Have you recently moved the plant to the west window? If yes, it's a good bet the immediate increase in light is the underlying cause for what the 3 leaves show in the images. While photo-oxidation/ sunburn is caused by a chemical reaction that releases free O- radicals, the same O- radicals present in H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide), which then attack the nearest organic molecule. Because of where this reaction occurs, the molecules of the pigment 'chlorophyll' is usually the first thing oxidized, which is why affected areas turn first from green to silver/ gray/ whitish before turning brown or black, depending on how succulent the leaf is and how humid the environment. Too, while heat isn't the actual cause of photo-oxidation, it influences how symptoms present. Relative solar (heat) gain is minimized toward the leaf tips and margins where tissue is thinner and heat is more readily lost to surrounding air, so it would be expected that manifestation of symptoms at leaf tips/margins would be absent or less conspicuous, which is reflected in the images. If you didn't just move the plant to a new spot, or rotate it to expose previously shaded leaves to direct sun, disregard the mention of sunburn as a potential cause.

The west window is fine.

Be very careful not to over-water when using that medium. It lists kelp and feather meal as primary sources of nutrients. In containers that are waterlogged, especially if temperatures drop below 60*F, ammonium toxicity can become a problem. When conditions are favorable, specialized bacteria act to release N as ammonia or ammonium form from organic sources (including urea). It is then acted upon by bacteria that convert it to nitrite and nitrate sources. Nitrate can safely be taken up by plants, but absent the nitrifying bacteria required to convert ammonium and nitrite to nitrate, plants will absorb the 2 former molecules, which can be especially toxic (see ammonium toxicity) in low oxygen/ waterlogged and cool grow media.

Al