This is a frost/drought crack, not sunscald, which causes a broader dead area under the bark. These cracks are problematic. I have little experience with them on such small trees, but I see them frequently in my timberland. and because I do logging, I can often trace the history of these cracks and how they "heal," or more usually fail to do so. (Tree physiologists--note my use of quotation marks around the word "heal" in this application.) In some cases these cracks will disappear over time as new wood grows over them and the two sides of the crack are joined, but it seems to me that more often these cracks stay open, either because of flexing of the trunks of the trees in the wind, or because whatever structural weakness caused the crack persists and keeps it open. Now what I am talking about here is my observations of large forest timber sized trees. Smaller trees may have a better ability to recover from these cracks. But even with my forest trees, these cracks don't often result in the death of these trees any time soon. Some trees survive with these cracks for several decades. When I see these cracks in a timber tree in my woods, I will generally cut it down because continued growth of the tree will not result in the production of much more valuable wood. Not only is the crack itself a defect that prevents the cutting of valuable lumber from that side of the tree, but the crack usually results in the staining of the surrounding wood. But for an ornnmental tree, those things are not a problem. If you are uncomfortable with some marginally doubtful prospects for the future health of this tree, yes, have it replaced. But if it were my tree I would wait at least three years and see if the tree shows signs of repairing this crack. And even if it doesn't, the tree could live for a very long time with this crack. --Spruce

Hello, If you bought a tree, it should not be cut down to the ground ever. I hope you bought the double bloom Roseof Sharon: Hibiscus syriacus the singles are notorious for hundreds of seedlings from 1 good sized tree every year. I have a few now, but there cornered and I plan to put a weed mat down. You should start seeing tiny green buds along your branches in the next 2 weeks or so. Although if they get hit with this freeze we have in the Michigan area tonight you'll have to wait awhile longer for new buds to form. The hardy hibiscus 'bushes' we grow do indeed die back to the ground in fall and are removed all but a stub to mark their place in spring and you will not see hide nor hair of them until May, even late May - early June, most all will think them dead with their first experience with them but be patient it will come. And when it starts to grow it will be a bush in no time. Happy Gardening - Sandy

The mulch is very thin, not even completely covering the soil. Whose to say mine won't eventually bite the dust. It can still happen and I kind of expect it. I feel like I am on borrowed time. Remember, the first pic is damage from two falls ago as it looks now. There was splitting, peeling and lifting completely around the trunk and as you can see and pretty far into it - notice the gray wood. It continues today all the way up into the branching now. I don't think you have more damage but there are a few differences between our trees. One obvious difference is our zones. Another big difference is the maturity. I bought mine in the late nineties as a small whip meant for mail order. It has been in place since then so the roots are more established. However, yours has more mature bark than mine. Mine just only lost the red color at the stem about the same time as the damage was noticed. I don't have plates and furrows yet. As far as substitutions, I am not a JM expert but there is certainly no lack of them. There are so many beautiful trees. The only reason I grow this variety is because of the winter presence which is strong. The stems are redder than my dogwoods. It isn't my favorite leaf or shape tree if I had to run it against other maples during the other seasons. OK, I know I have a pic somewhere of a more mature tree at the NYBG during winter - it is stunning. It will take a little time, I know I keep promising these pics but I will try to find it before the weekend is over. They are on another computer. BTW, I am not trying to talk you into keeping the tree if you want another one. I can't blame you. I would probably want to move it too even though at this point it would make things worse. I am only comparing our plants. Even though mine didn't die, doesn't mean yours won't. Just offering a possibility that it might not. I wonder what your warrenty was on this plant? I know most places are one year but once in a while, the more expensive nurseris offer more time.

oh my ... great debate .. some relevant.. some not ... lol ... just be done with it all ... plant a bunch to replace it.. looks like you have space ... diversify ... dont plant all of one kind ... think of it this way.. just nice round numbers .... 1000 bucks to remove it all .. or..... 850 dollars to surgically remove half without damaging the rest .. and a few years later.. perhaps paying another 1000 to remove the rest ... cuz prices never go down ... for sure ... pay once.. remove.. replant ... personally i would treat the stump so the roots die.. and leave it there ... and avoid the cost of grinding ... do use someone with insurance... since you have one of those LP bombs sitting near it ... ken ps: i wish those were real prices ....