***" Can we prevent that loud bang?"*** No absolute guarantee, but if you follow the procedure below, rest assured you can keep it to a minimum. When you are executing an intentional shutdown, be certain to perform the following steps BEFORE you arise from the seat. When traveling from the yard to your selected parking place: Disengage the deck by moving the PTO lever to OFF. Reduce engine speed to about half throttle by moving the Throttle lever to the slower RPM range. Select a moderate to slow ground speed by moving the speed control lever to somewhere between "1 and 4". Drive to your parking spot, go as slow as you like by adjusting the speed control lever. When you have the tractor in the desired parking spot: Leave the throttle lever at the mid RPM position. Push the Clutch/Brake pedal down and hold it there. Pull the speed control lever down to the PARK position and hold it there with your hand. While holding the speed lever in PARK, take your foot off the Clutch/Brake pedal. Next, move the Ignition key switch to the OFF (STOP) position. After the engine has completely stopped spinning, arise from the seat. If the engine still commits "Afterfire" even when using this procedure, the anti-afterfire solenoid is not working properly. Typically, any time you arise from the seat (with the engine running) without first turning off the deck blades, and locking the Clutch/Brake in the PARK position, you will probably hear a loud bang from the muffler.

I also think something came loose and clogged the hot water line at the faucet. I second the suggestion to turn off the water, then disassemble the faucet and you will probably find a big chunk of lime in the hot water opening. You may also have a clogged anti-scald valve if it's newer. You might try flushing it backwards first before taking it apart: 1. turn off cold water supply to hot water heater. If the heater is electric, turn off the breaker too. 2. Open a hot water faucet - such as a laundry tub - or the Pressure relief valve on the water heater. Don't use a kitchen or bathroom faucet for this. 3. Place a wet rag over the tub spout and hold it in place 4. Open the hot water on the tub 5. open the cold water on the tub Water should run through the hot water side backwards and flush the crud out of the faucet. 6. Turn off the tub, close the hot water faucet that you opened in step #2, turn on the cold water to heater. 7. Open the hot water tap to see if it works. Purge any air out, then turn on the breaker to the water heater.

Nevada, NW of Reno, and something between 1350 and 1400 sq ft. - Checked and it is 1394 sq ft according to the realtor listing. It is a single story ranch on a slab. I am at something between 5000 and 5200 feet in altitude. I looked the furnace up on the Bryant website and it is 80% efficiency but I don't know which of the listed BTUs on the label should be used to determine the proper size of the furnace. The ceilings are insulated but the walls have little or no insulation to my knowledge. The calculator to which I was referred gives a result of approx 70k BTU. So if the highest listed BTUs on the label (88k) is the correct one to use for the size calculation, that results is 80% of 88k = 70,400 BTUs - so it would seem the furnace is properly sized. If that is NOT the correct value for BTUs, all the others listed on the label are less than that and the furnace must then be too small. We do normally get a lot of solar exposure here which may or may not enter into things. I have never set the heat higher than 68F and it is usually set to 60F at night and whenever I am gone. I'm on a fixed income so I watch those bills like a hawk and just wear more clothes. I did find a registry to look the business up as far as licensure, and it states he is licensed and the license is active. Keep in mind there is no AC so until it got quite cold here the furnace - or more correctly the blower - was not being used. I turned it on sometime in late Oct or early Nov. So before that there was no fan noise because the unit was not being used at all. The furnace is centrally located so that duct runs are shorter than usual. These houses were military housing for Air Force Brass and whatever else you could say about them, the floor plan and layout are quite efficient.

As has been mentioned, the most common cause of water hammer is the quick open/close action from fast-acting valves. Typically found in washing machines and dishwashers. It's less common with toilet fill valves, faucet taps, or shower valves. First thing you can do it to drain your entire house supply plumbing system. Normally water hammer arrestors are plumbed in above the valves during construction. You may have some already in your house's plumbing system. Over time they can fill with water. Draining the plumbing system can drain the water out of the arrestors, and when the supply is refilled, the air pocket that provides the cushion is reestablished. Turn off the water supply to the house. Open every faucet of valve in the house. Then go back in the basement and open the drain valve, or needle bleed valve(s), or basement utility sink tap...you're just trying to drain the hot and cold copper supply tubing above. No need to drain the water heater, boiler, etc. Just your domestic water supply tubing system. When drained, close the drain valve(s), turn the water back on, then go back around closing all the taps/valves. It took about 20 years before I had to drain my system to recharge the arrestors in my house. Last year I was in the shower and the water started surging a bit and I heard a series of mild "thump" noises. That had never happened before. My wife had started laundry. The thumps coincided with the washing machine valves cycling. I drained and refilled, the issue disappeared, hopefully for another 20 years. FWIW, when I plumbed my house I used simple extensions of copper tubing for water arrestors, similar to what you linked to in your photo. Also check your household water pressure. There should be a pressure regulator on your well's water supply tank, or at the point where city water enters your house. House pressure is often regulated between 40-60PSI, or 50-70PSI by well pressure regulators. City water can be higher, you can regulate it down to around 50-60PSI. If neither of those work, then attack the change in your system; the new shower valve. Since it's already tiled in on the shower side, I'd open up the back of the wall if able. Review the plumbing layout and have water hammer arrestors installed on both the hot and cold sides above the valve. If that can't be done, then the Watts LF-150A that Geoffrey linked to is a good retrofit option. You'll want one each on the hot and cold sides. They can be installed under a tub, in the basement, under a vanity, etc. I've never enclosed one of them in a wall. They may not cure the issue, but they can lessen it. Agree with Mule Meat, the "unused parts" in the small ziplock look like port plugs for your valve. If your installation did not require all the ports on the valve to be used, you simply plug the unneeded ports with those plugs. The green colored sleeves look like wall anchors.