I have not heard of one but you could contact Onset Technologies which create data loggers of all sorts. They may be able to supply you a light sensor that could be paired with a mechanism to turn off the lights when enough natural light was present. I share your concern about energy waste. What is your goal? Do you someday want to build a commercial operation or are you looking for a hobby structure? We are in the process of building an energy efficient greenhouse and we considered artificial light to supplement the natural light but in the end did not really pursue it. We do have LED lights but just in normal fixtures and using typical warm white light. We were not interested in the blue and red LED lights because when we artificially light our greenhouse, it will mostly be for spending time in it. However, that might make sense for your application. No matter what artificial light you use, nothing comes close to the intensity of the sun. If you can use natural light for most -if not all- of your needs, you will be in good shape. For our GH, we are using windows strategically to get the most light and heat by putting them on the south side and a few on the east but none on the north. Everywhere else is R29 insulation which keeps things at a steady temperature. Another thought, Logee's Greenhouse is an hour away from me in Connecticut and they sell tropical plants and trees. They use NO supplemental light and they are a commercial grower that sends their plants all over the country (Martha Stewart is a big fan). Their visiting hours are restricted in the winter because there is not enough light after 4pm for people to look around so they actually reduce hours when most stores are extending them for the holiday shopping season. They have a lemon tree that is over a century old that is producing HUGE fruit and many other fruiting trees that are pretty productive. Maybe you don't need supplemental light at all.

Moist/Crisp is just a lever that allows steam to escape out some holes or keeps it in. If you intend to use your warming drawer for crisping crackers and holding Belgian waffles, you might want the holes. For holding plates of dinner, you don't want them so it won't dry out. My Monogram warming drawer is integrated and does have the lever. I haven't actually had occasion to use it, however. The waffles all disappear before they can go in the warming drawer! So I can't tell you how well it works, but the lever is there. The holes open at the top, and allow the moisture to escape between the front wall of the drawer and the cabinet panel, and (at least in theory), out the holes in the bottom, just as it would if it had the stainless front (it actually comes with the stainless front so they don't have to stock the panel ready units separately or something). The Monogram WD (when I bought it a couple of years ago) also had the best temperature range (80-ish for plate warming to well over 200 for holding dense meats), and wasn't fussed up with digital controls. Just a knob labelled Lo, Med, Hi, a switch, and a red indicator light to show it was on. A warming drawer is simple and adding computers to it is silly, in my book. Be aware that with integrating into inset cabinets you'll need extra deep cabinetry. Most integrated cabinets are done with the face set at 25". You'd need the frame set at that depth as well, and some interior anchors. I believe it's the Dacor warming drawer that is a little shallower front to back and easier to get flush into stock cabinetry.

Okay...all the junk is out! Plan: clean up/mop dust, mortar chips, etc. and spend the evening with my paint samples...narrow down to three or four...paint sample boards, and pick a color. I would love to have time to see the sample boards in different light etc.; but my get-er-done DH scheduled plumbers on Monday and convinced the tile setters to partially grout the shower and come back to finish on Monday too....Grrrr! So...I plan to only paint behind the toilet and area and by bullnose edging. If I pick wrong.....I will not have to do redo the whole room. If I pick the wrong color, I am not worried about repainting near the bullnose; it is the toilet area that worries me. Anyone have a tip for painting behind a toilet that is 1/2 inch from the wall just in case. This is our attempt to correct a horrible inefficient layout...not thrilled about looking at the side of a toilet; but that compromise meant a towel closet in the bathroom (finally), a 60x60 angle shower, and room for a 77" double vanity while eliminating the 3 right angles in the second entrance from the master bath.

To follow up, the Juno lights as installed look good so far (although my kitchen is flooded with natural light right now, so I won't know for sure until it's dark out) - I took a chance but I love that there's an off/switch on each of the 3 bars (2 24's and 1 12) on the left hand side and a dimmer dial on the right, plus the on/off switch on the wall for all 3 (which are connected), so we can very much customize the amount of light is on and off each time we turn the switch on and off on the wall. or we can leave the wall switch on and use the on-bar controls. It's a lot more versatility than any other LED light that I've seen. And when on full blast the lights are pretty bright, and when dimmed they are pretty dim, so far. What I might do to get around the problem of having reflections on the shiny (Zodiaq cloud white) countertop, is use the stick-on diffusers provided with the environmental lights package, and put those on the Junos and not return them to environmental lights. One thing re environmental lights - they know their stuff, were VERY helpful and I'd love to work with them. I just prefer a dimmer dial. And Juno's customer service is not 24/7 like some electrical support shops - it's just M-F, which I didn't like as much. And the dimmer-dial LEDs we used aren't even on its website, for whatever reason. I tried to call its customer service line today to ask why they aren't on the website and make sure they still support them before deciding which to install - but they aren't available today (a Sunday). For what it's worth, the Juno bars we installed have a 5 year warranty and the environmental lights have a 3 year warranty. I'm not sure why the difference and it wasn't a big factor in deciding, but worthy of note.