Thanks. I may end up with some sort of alarm system anyway, so this was helpful. In the end I went with (single) sliders, which was originally at the bottom of my list, almost out of consideration. Got my ventilation, window treatments, curb appeal and there are actually many more add-on security options for sliders than hoppers or awnings. The awnings were just too pricey. Getting estimates now. Started with Home Depot's @ Home Service and got a quote of $3030 for American Craftsman six sliders and one hopper (my egress in the laundry room.) I know there's a real love 'em or hate 'em thing with HD but I did have some minor kitchen work done a while back and had an excellent installation experience. ~Jacy

We're in suburban Chicago and a previous owner replaced our original basement windows with glass block. They are mortared in place. In the middle of each window, 2 blocks were omitted and a vinyl framed window/screen unit is in place in each. We have those little windows open quite frequently in the summmer and they were a massive blessing when the basement flooded last year and we had to dry the basement out. These screened window units are not removable, nor would we want them to be. However, the screen is removable. The screen is installed with 2 short screws on the outside, the window portion latches on the inside. Once the screen is off, a person cannot fit through - so they are secure. Although our basement was 3/4 finished at the time of the flood (which was sewage backup), we removed the screens and brought the hose in from outside to do the clean up. The extra ventilation was helpful. I hate hate hate the look of glass block, but in the 6 yrs we've lived here, they've functioned well. That being said, I'd get rid of them if I could (hubbie disagrees with me) because of the look of them.

IâÂÂve replaced several windows in my brick/stone home. HereâÂÂs how they were done (in 1950): From the outside: removed brick moulding, the 2x4 framing extended about þâ into the window opening. The window opening was framed with 1x4âÂÂs. The 1x4âÂÂs were attached to the 2x4âÂÂs. The windows were set inside, and attached to the frame. The brick mould was about 1 ýâ it overlapped the þâ of 2x4 and the þâ of the 1x4. Before you start, see what width brick/sill moulding is available. All I could find was 2â so I made my window framing (the 1x4) wider with ýâ plywood. The flange moulding is really meant for siding or stucco. I donâÂÂt think it will work well to nail brick moulding over it. IMO, you just need a few screws: The window and door foam does a good job at holding the window in place.

All openings in a brick wall of this type need a steel L-shaped lintel above the opening to support the wall above. The lintel will extend 3-4" on either side and be supported by the surrounding brick/block. If the current lintel goes all the way across, including bridging the embedded concrete block, then the entire opening is still supported after you remove the block and it should be fine. However, if it only extends across the coal chute, then you would need to install a new lintel to bridge the entire opening if you remove the block. Also consider how difficult it will be to remove that block. You can rent a concrete saw to make the cuts through the mortar, but its a heavy saw with a lot of torque. Its especially hard to handle when trying to make level horizontal cuts. If your foundation wall is double thickness (likely), you have to make the cuts from both sides, since most smaller concrete saws won't cut more than about 5-6" deep. You should also wear a respirator mask with a good filter, since the concrete saw mostly pulverizes the mortar and creates fine dust, and you are going to be very close to it. Bruce