Not a seamstress but why do both of your fabrics need to be lined? I think I would use a double rod and then both valances will have their own rod pocket...whether lined or not lined.

@erinsean, to have a nicely finished, scallop shaped bottom as above requires it to be lined. Plus, a lined curtain is a nicer looking curtain. Also, I don't want two rods, only one.

Check youtube for videos on how to do it. No way will 4 layers glide easily on the rod. You be able to board mount it. Your picture is of piping along the edge not fabric hanging behind the front fabric. Look at the valances on the Vermont Country Store website. They do look like they are lined

@jck910, yes I know the picture I showed has piping. I only included that picture to show the type of scallop edging I was looking to do. Maybe I wasn't clear about that in my posting. Believe me, I have been looking for videos. Here is an example of the look I want to achieve. It may be that the solid contrasting panel doesn't go up over the rod, but to just above the sewing line that creates the pocket. Then the floral fabric is hand sticthed in the back

A few questions. Are you having a header or no? What time of rod are you hanging this from? A wide continental rod or stapled to a board or what? Answer those questions and then I can give some suggestions.

@RNmomof2 zone 5 It will be a metal rod, no header. I have attached a picture of the rod for you. I may have to move the rod up higher based on the size of the pattern in this toile, but I will deal with that when I go to lay out the pattern. Thanks.

I don't sew....but I think the photo you valance posted is on a board.

https://howtonestforless.com/how-to-make-a-board-mounted-valance/

@elcieg, The picture I posted was only to show the scallop design. Yes, it is on a board, not what I plan to do. Unfortunately, I think posting that picture has only confused people. Please see the second picture I posted of the green curtain on a rod. I think I need to modify my original post due to confusion about the picture.

One way to make them would be to take each fabric and line it. Take each section (fabric and lining) and sew them together so that the seam will be touching the rod on the inside. (Right side of front section to wrong side of back section) I would probably sew this seam down to the back section to make it lay flat. You can then sew a casing along the top to insert the rod thru.

Thanks, @RNmomof2 zone 5, I was somewhat thinking along those lines but wasn't sure. I definitely think that it will work. I believe I will leave each panel a bit longer than necessary to be on the safe side as I play around with the placement. Better safe than sorry!

Hoping Shady Lady joins in here because she knows much more than I do. Looking at your inspiration photo, I believe the printed section of the valance is joined to the accent solid section first, then the entire valance is lined vs 2 separate pieces. I found this Simplicity pattern that may offer more detailed instructions. (I realize this Simplicity pattern isn’t exact).

https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/brands/simplicity/simplicity-pattern-1383-valances-for-36--40-wide-windows/

I would highly recommend you create a sample valance with whatever fabric you have in your house first. A sample will give you the opportunity to make changes.

@ratherbesewing, The valance does give the appearance of two pieces of fabric being pieced together from the photo I copied and pasted. But on the actual website, Priority Window Valances, when I enlarge the picture, the detail is better shown. That valance is one of three double-layered and lined valances provided as examples; hopefully, they are not misleading us. Piecing two fabrics together would be an option, but all I can say is bless the person who would do so with the design in this picture. I have sewn similar projects adding fabric or as an applique, but those fine points would not be enjoyable to do!!

It would be possible to construct with 2 layers if the bottom edges were faced. The facings would be to the inside so all edges are finished.

The rod pocket may be formed by sewing the lined toile and the lined green fabric together at the top edge (right sides out), making a single long piece, then folding at the top edge (like a towel on a towel rack), then sewing through the four layers at the normal spacing for a rod pocket. That is not the usual way we'd make a rod pocket with a single panel of lined fabric (by flipping it over), but it would work. Good pressing will be key.

What you can do is to eliminate as much bulk as you can before you stitch the casing.

Construct your two layers and lay them onto one another.

Cut the length of your top valance to the finished height, plus the length needed to make the fold to create the casing, and the seam allowance needed to turn under.

Now cut your under valance only to the finished height of the outer valance, which is right before it gets folded back to create the casing.

Now, you have eliminated at least two layers of fabric from your casing seam.

If you still are concerned about thickness of fabric layers you can easily eliminated some more bulk out of that seam allowance that you are going to turn under at the stitching line of the casing by sewing a line of stitching above the fold and trimming away the lining layer at that point. For instance, if you plan to press the seam allowance back for one inch, sew a line of stitching at about 1 1/2" and then trim away the lining layer so that you are folding back only one layer, the deco fabric. Now, you have graded it and eliminated another layer of fabric.

That should be enough grading for most fabrics.

There are other approaches to grading on the back side of the valance after the point where it folds back at the top. But, that is the idea to eliminate the excess layers before they accumulate at the stitching line.

Dont cut the under valance any shorter than the desired length of the outer valance. You will get raw cut edges showing. It needs to be at least to the finished height.

You could also just stitch all the layers together at a point of about 2" above the fold of your seam allowance and trim away all but the deco fabric of the outer valance. If your turned under seal allowance is 1", stitch about 2" or 2 1/2" from that and trim away all but the outer fabric before you press it under and stitch it. So long as your grading is done on the portion of the heading that is on the backside, it is fine.

Since you are not gathering this valance, it won't matter much that it is a thick seam.

this is a simple thing to sew and you will be fine with it.

Once you get your two finished pieces together, it will all become clear as to how to eliminate the bulk.

It is a nice and will not be hard to do , at all.

For your rod pocket you will need the depth of the rod x's 2 and a tad more just for ease of inserting the rod and then, of course, a seam allowance to turn under the raw edge at the casing line.

Do leave a bit of wiggle room in the depth of your rod pocket so that it slides in easily.

The most important part of this is to a get nice shape on your scallops or points. Mark carefully and trim carefully and press, press, press! Precision lines, trimming seams and pressing are of utmost importance.

One more thing about cutting your pieces is that it is best to cut your deco fabric at least two inches wider than your desired finished width. And, cut your lining fabric only to the desired finished width. Sew them with a one inch seam allowance and when you turn them to the outside you will have the edges of the outer fabric wrap around to the inside for one inch before they join to the lining. Top layer finished width plus 2", lining only to finished width, join with 1" seam allowance and turn.

That way you dont have a seam right at the edge of the finished piece. Rather the seam that joins them is recessed in for 1". It makes for a nicer edge.

This called a "pillowcase" technique. Give it a google. You just dont 'want the lining to begin to peek out from behind the deco fabric at the sides.

I like these valances, They are nice and tailored and they dont take much to make either in effort or materials and you can change them out if you get tired of the old fabric. Really, they are easy and quite nice.

When it comes to sewing that sharp point you might want to google some ideas about that. One idea is to not actually stop at a point and pivot the machine needle, but, rather to take a couple of small stitches straight across that sharp point and then go back up the other side of the point., Your seam is only going to press into a point to a degree. It has bulk. You might try a trial run on those points with some scrap pieces. It takes some care to get nice points. If you are not familiar with sewing crisp points, give it a google and take a practice swing at stitching it and trimming it. You dont want to trim too close at the point because it will come apart.

@wednesday morning Thanks for the detailed instructions!!

I'd just make and add a shaped banding. I'd also add a stiff interfacing to the entire valance or it might wave on you, unless you don't mind that.

Looks fantastic!

Looks beautiful.

I enjoy seeing follow up posts. Your valance came out gorgeous! Love the fabric choices, the hardware, and the paint color. Nicely finished bottom edge of valance. Surely took lots of time and patience. Well done. BTW, what is the wall paint color?

@Laurie Thanks for the compliments. However, I am ashamed to say that this is the original paint color when we built the house, 20 some years ago!! It is a spare bedroom currently with overflow "stuff" such that I am finally getting it cleaned out. I made a matching toile comforter and pillow shams too. The original paint color was Pale Parchment. I plan to have my upstairs painted later in the year and will be using SW Antique White mixed in a double pigment. It is a nice warm, creamy off-white and the double pigment gives the paint more presence. I have only recently learned that when looking at the lighter paints, if the color is not quite deep enough, requesting the pigment added to be doubled can really make a difference. However, for paints of deeper/darker colors, this may not be doable because with doubling the pigment, the paint cans may not be able to contain the paint and added pigment.

That is interesting to learn about mixing a paint color using double pigment. Can you post pics of the matching comforter and shams? Toile is so classic.