Hi Grice..As long as the temps don't dip under 40 your Calamondin should be safe..don't know about palms. 40 is nearing the 'unsafe' zone..it's pretty cold. Do you have a cool room in your house? Or perhaps, you can set outside, (start in shady area until citrus acclimates) during the day when it's in the 50's,then lug in at night. I wouldn't toss a plant because of mites, but would if one was infested w/mealy..they're the worse. A magnifying glass is a good tool but when a plant is infested webs are noticable..Look between leaves/stems..During a mite meal, they suck juices from leaves which eventually discolor..is this what's happening to your plants? Since I'm not into insecticides, the first thing I do if I suspect any type of insect is hose plant off..I've even poured dish soap directly on foliage, rub soap on leaves/stems, then rinse off..I also mist plants on a daily basis.. This yr, 2 hibs and 3 citrus acquired mites..I usually grate citrus rind or sprinkle rind into mister..But Ajax came out with grapefruit dishsoap..Got it for 1.00. Added 2-4 drops of soap, finely cut garlic, and additional citrus rind in mister..Shook mister..Then sprayed every plant in the room that contains citrus. Treated 3 times per wk, on other days sprayed w/plain water..Mites are goners.. Fresh air is mandatory..Most winters I keep a fan running on low..This helps circulate air, but open windows or being outside works best. Of course in our climate it's impossible. GRice, if you really suspect insects, do a thorough search on all plants in this room. Good luck, Toni P.S. I also get a piece of paper towel, and wipe webbing out of crevices until all signs of mites are gone..

pH induced nutrient deficiencies Symptoms - High medium pH can induce deficiencies of manganese and iron may cause interveinal chlorosis of young foliage. As deficiencies become more severe, necrotic spots will appear within the chlorotic tissue. Control - Maintaining soil pH below 7 will improve the availability of iron and manganese and slow the leaching of magnesium. Application of the appropriate nutrient will correct a problem, but palm response tends to be slow. Foliar sprays will hasten color improvement compared to soil application, but use low rates of application rates to avoid phytotoxicity from the sprayed materials. I think this is my problem. Will give it some epsom salts. Thank you very much for your help!

Sorry to hear about your majesty palm. They are definitely one of the worst indoor palms you can grow, they just don't like being indoors and people don't even always have success with them indoors for just the winter. They are very prone to spider mites, need humidity (but oddly do well in non-humid environments outdoors), and they are grown in a way that makes them do terrible once they leave the store. I don't think that leaving the door open would have hurt your palm, they can actually handle some freezing temperatures and usually don't die until they reach temperatures in the upper 20s and I'm sure it didn't get that cold in your house in only 8 minutes. I would look for a different indoor palm. Parlor palms are just as available and do much better. They are smaller though. Traditionally, Kentias, Lady palms, and pretty much any palm in the Chamaedorea species do incredibly well indoors. Sorry to hear about this palm. It's definitely still alive and it probably will grow back if you keep giving it good care like you have. I would take it outside in the shade after your last frost, it will be happier outdoors for the summer and recover faster. -Alex

That is spider mite damage. Should see minuscule amounts of webbing on underside. Damage is permanent, but I would clean the leaflet undersides to prevent it from getting worse.