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Home Repair Flooring Remodeling

need help with flooring prep!

3 years ago

I am rennovating a house to live in. the thread can be seen here.
Check out this discussion on Houzz - https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6035582/1970s-ranch-update
I am trying to get my floor set up the best I can. I am leaning towards hardwood but I may go to a click and lock flooring.
the kitchen and living room had two layers of 5/8" ply on top of each other. I removed the top layer in the kitchen as part of my asbestos removal.
my plan was to just replace what I removed and be done with it but now I'm worried I'm not making the right choice.
So far I have screwed all of the first layer down in the kitchen. I have replaced three pieces becuase of delamination. Some remaining have a bit here and there too but I think it's acceptable.
The adjacent bedrooms have hardwood run PARALLEL with the joist on top of the first layer of 5/8". I will likely be removing this and giving these rooms the same treatment.
I think I'm stuck with either doing a second layer of 5/8" advantech or 5/8" cdx. I have learned the that second layer should not be glued and should only be screwed in the field. The only other option I see is removing the second layer in the living room as well and going with a totally different.
The current living room double layer squeak a lot. But it seems like I can chase it with screws. The first layer is perp to the joist. the second is parallel...
any suggestions, comments, thoughts, etc?
by the way. they're 10" joist spanning 13'. May not be the best but will do..

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Comments (7)

SJ McCarthy
3 years ago
Second layer of subfloor is turned to run perpendicular and staggered. You will screw down the first layer to the joists. Screws not nails. The top layer will receive screws around the edges every 4" . Screws every 6" in the field. Do NOT screw the top layer to the joists .

When you purchase subfloor grade plywood ( do not go cheap...go with real ply) there will be screw layout tattooed on the top side. It's pretty easy to figure it out from there.
PRO
G & S Floor Service
3 years ago
I would fasten down whatever is there and add a second layer to the single layer so everything is at the same height. That seems to be least amount of work.
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james lemay
Original Author
3 years ago
I have to live there so least amount of work isn't my biggest concern. lol

No one around here currently has any 5/8" underlayment available. So my two options to match the 5/8" underlayment in the living room is either 5/8 cdx or 5/8 advantech. The advantec is t&g. I am pretty sure I will be doing hardwood or similar nail down flooring.

I am looking for the best final result without ripping up anymore subfloor.

I can't add felt between subfloor and underlayment unless I rip up the 5/8 underlayment in the living room.
millworkman
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Careful as most cleats and or nails do not like OSB.
SJ McCarthy
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
If you nail/cleat/staple you need to wait for plywood. If you glue you can Advantec.
PRO
Mint tile Minneapolis
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Proper PLY is B/C EXP1. use 23/32. DO GLUE second layer with full coverage titebond trowelable glue. Span every seam by no less than 12" and stagger sheets properly. Follow SJ Mcarthys fastener schedule. NEVER felt between layers.

Lastly any patches you cut into the first layer MUST have full blocking at all and every seam. FIRST.
james lemay
Original Author
3 years ago
thanks for all the help! my lumber yard has "ulb" 5/8" fir plywood available right now. I'm thinking it is probably underlayment grade b. would that be a good option if it matches my thickness of existing?

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