Slope frequently does not convey accurately through photographs. It's hard for us to tell exactly how much you're dealing with. To me, it looks like you're going to need some retaining walls and cannot convert it back to slope. Keep in mind that slopes are like slow moving glaciers. A slope could stay in place for awhile. But over time they move, working their way downhill. After a bit, if just slope, I would imagine you'd be constantly cleaning soil off of the patio. There would likely be erosion problems coming, too. To replace what is there, I would recommend you use a concrete or masonry material due to its being longer lasting and its potential to be simpler. The existing wood walls look very busy and poorly constructed. I would recommend that you get someone on site to design something simpler, within your budget. It would be nice to make the slope toward the patio, including the stairs, less steep. I would use plants that didn't get too tall flanking the patio. Right now there are large bushes at each front corner of the patio. To me, they encroach too much in the view and would be better placed closer to the house, but not in front of windows. Directly out in the yard are a couple or three trees that will eventually be smack in front of the main view. I'd consider doing away with these in favor of trees pushed more to the side of the view.

"Problem is finding a good paver "setter" who has a bit of creativity & vision." It's a mistake to think that paver installers are the ones that should be responsible for designing the project. Installers are primarily interested in installing the maximum square footage of patio that you will buy, and could probably care less about the layout, other than that they would prefer you provide a good one so they can walk away with pride and end up with a decent project for their portfolio. While they will design it by default, if you don't provide a design, the quality of their ideas will be on on you. If you don't have the design skills (alone or in conjunction with this forum) to design the patio, then you should be consulting with a LANDSCAPE DESIGNER, not a paver installer. Get the design done first, and then find an installer to place it. If you don't have a design (on paper) then you have nothing to bid on. In that case, every contractor you talk to will recommend different things and the pricing will be all over map. You'll have bids you can't compare with other bids because they'll all be for different things. As far as 12' vs. 14' depth, I would consider 12' the absolute minimum usable dimension. A designer would want to know the exact furniture that you're placing on the patio, and the contingencies for when you want to set up for the occasional larger group for special occasions, if that ever happens. Even if it never happens for you, it would be typical of most households. If resale (ever) is a concern, I wouldn't make the patio the absolute smallest a person can "get by" with. One that is of a size usable for a typical "family" with your size house in your type of neighborhood, would be a better choice. Rarely does anyone make a patio that they think is too large. Usually, they're wishing they had a little more space. I suggest figuring out your furniture and all uses and make the patio comfortably large enough to accommodate everything with a little extra room added. There's little point to building something new that you regret soon after you start using it. The difference in cost between barely-big-enough and comfortable is not that great. Buried utilities rarely limit a patio's placement. Water, sewer, gas, electricity are (should be) deep enough to be well below a patio. They might warrant some caution in excavation, but this is nothing to be fretting over. Irrigation lines might be shallow, but still probably won't be a problem. In the worst case scenario, if they are very shallow, they can easily be rerouted. (Some reconfiguration is likely anyway, since you don't want to be watering your patio.) Cable and telephone (if anyone has that any more) tends to the shallowest. These can both be rerouted to a lower placement or different route. Whether you abut or space it away from the structure, in order to make room for foundation beds, make the patio length (its longest dimension) be parallel to the home, not perpendicular to it. (Something said earlier made me think this was possibly going wrong.)

There is nothing necessarily advantageous or better about having straights or curves. You just need to make them all work together in the end. In the prior iteration, I'm addressing fitting the circular element in with straight lines in a more flowing way. I didn't address tweaking other areas to that change because I don't know the site particulars (whether the level change is a step up or a step down.) The circular shape does invite/suggest that nearby corners, underneath, be circular, too. Adding a radius to the "planting bed" is no problem. But because of furniture in the lounge area, there's a conflict. It might be eased if you can expand the area near the house by another couple of feet, as it seems tight overall.. (Another issue I have in exploring this further, is that I don't know what is proposed and what is existing.)

I'd put in temporary supports, remove the existing poles and concrete, install new, pressure treated posts in holes that are deep enough to prevent side movement, and pour new concrete . The amount of the post in a hole should be at least 1/3 of the aboveground length (so, if it's 8-9' from the ground to the top of the structure, a 3' deep hole would be about right). If you place a couple of inches of gravel at the bottom of the hole and taper the concrete away from the post to the edge of the hole, it should outlast you.