Cracks between inset kitchen cabinet?! DISSAPOINTED.
Mel S
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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Kitchen cabinets - inset?
Comments (33)So, your aisles would be 37" once you factor in the overhand on the counter (40 - 1.5 - 1.5 = 37") In our house, we have to go with 36" aisles because an island is essential to making my kitchen work for me. I am the only cook and practically the only person in the kitchen (my DH will come in to grab a snack our something to drink from the fridge, but the kitchen is mostly my domain.) If I could go wider on the aisles, I absolutely would, but to do that, we would have to take down a load-bearing wall. In regard to my findings when I headed to IKEA, 42" was comfortable for me. If working with a two-cook kitchen, I would possibly go wider still. One of the reasons that double islands receive criticism is that they create additional barriers for getting from one area to another. You'll find most people on GW are very oriented toward *flow* of a kitchen, workspaces, and how it works for what you are doing. What you mentioned as a scenario with your DH doing prep may help others offer suggestions as to how to get that situation to work, maybe with or maybe without a double island. But, you are at a wonderful point of planning where you CAN make changes without the challenges/limitations that those of us who are remodeling face. You are so fortunate to land here at this stage of the process. :) I'm rather new here, but without fail, I have seen advice on this forum that has been helpful in making decisions. For me, I'm not following everything that has been suggested (for example, I will have a barrier [i.e. island] between my cooktop and my oven and someone suggested that I do a range rather than separate...I wish to have the oven situated a little higher than it sits when part of a range, so I am opting to keep them separate), BUT with the help of people here, it has made me look at everything I assumed that I knew about cooking in a kitchen and what I need to make it function well for me. I strongly encourage you to begin to think about where your items will have homes once to start to get your layout together. There are some excellent posts on here that will help you with that. I wound up getting my layout mostly how I thought I wanted it, and then I found that I needed to change a few drawers to have items where they would make the most sense. I narrowed a drawer bank and added a narrow, tall cabinet where I didn't have one before for items to have a home. You'll be happy that you thought of where things are going to live in the kitchen before you have the cabinets because then you have the opportunity to have exactly what you need. In regard to traffic pattern concerns, people aren't just talking about where other people may be walking, but also where you are walking while you are using your kitchen. I can't say that you'll wind up with a kitchen without ANY regrets/wish-I-would-have-done-differently, but with the help you receive here, you will find that your kitchen is likely to be better for working in it than what you originally planned....See MoreInset drawers with no rails in between
Comments (20)Oh, this isn't hard at all. I've retrofitted a few base cabinets with drawers like this. Granted, most had a face frame, so it was just taking off the existing (stupid) doors, adding drawer glides and drawer fronts. In the case below, I stuck a face frame on an existing overlay drawer cabinet, then made the drawer fronts out of pallets and a board I found in the mud, at a friend's farm. The 2nd photo shows this cabinet next to overlay cabinets. Because the new face frame brought it out 3/4", it was flush with the overlay cabinets giving them a pseudo-inset look. A couple cabinets I put a horizontal frame piece (rail? stile?) in with pocket hole screws, attached drawer glides and then drawer fronts. The picture below was when I was still fussing with overlay cabinets. These uppers were 42" tall, but I wanted the look of stacked cabinets. (This is before I had my OMG AHHH HAAAAAA moment that my true love in life, everlasting adoration, is beaded inset cabinets.) Anyway... You could easily put inset doors in these. THEN, On some kitchen cabinets I took frameless cabinets, put the whole darned face frame on and have butt doors (no vertical piece in between the doors) installed. On these last cabs, I actually took a 24" tall cabinet and stuck a 12" cab on top of it (=36") then put a face frame on the whole darned thing so it looks like a single cabinet. Turned out far cooler than my very vivid imagination could see! Inset, of course. Please ignore the crap in there. I had to use the cabinets in the meanwhile. The top 12" cab had a face frame, so the new one I built went on top. I left the center style as a door stop. Note the tiny edge at the top of the bottom space. That edge of the cabinet is its door stop. With doors in: Ok, I also took three, 3-drawer base cabinets. 36" + 24" + 36". I made a face frame that is 96" long with the 30" vertical pieces. When you take the actual cabinet face frames stuck together, those vertical pieces = 1.5". My new face frame had 3/4" pieces. The extra, original face frame underneath became drawer stops. The inset drawer front fit right in that face frame without fussing with how far in to go. (A drawer glide must be 7/8" inside the face frame for inset drawer fronts to fit nicely. Original 3 cabinets: This is a close up of the face frame over the existing cabinets. Note how the drawer glide is inset 7/8". Here's the face frame installed. I haven't put all the slab drawer fronts on at this point. (Anyone need a lot of overlay drawer fronts? I have about 20 of all sizes.) You wouldn't need to build a face frame AROUND an IKEA, frameless cabinet, but on top of the frameless cabinet. It would give you a 3/4" deeper cabinet. You wouldn't need an end piece between them, rather a simple 1x2 (so .75 x 1.5) piece between mine. The face frame screws hold it just fine. I realize as usual, this is one of my novels, but what you're imagining can be done rather easily and VERY inexpensively on so many levels....See MoreKitchen Cabinets next to range hood and gap between ceiling and 42"
Comments (28)I’m trying. Unfortunately, i signed off on it. Lesson learned. We‘re adding cabinets next to the fridge to give it room to open and pushing the others down. I’m not sure I prefer a small counter area for a coffee pot or the long cabinets more, but it should help with the fridge issue. They added the fascia and crown to the top of the ceiling as well. After I pointed things out, it seems like they’re wanting to fix as much as they can on the plan. Not wanting to budge on the Dishwasher issue so far because of the plumbing already being done though. Maybe I can change the island without altering the plumbing lines? Going to keep pushing....See MoreInset Kitchen Cabinets
Comments (26)@vjs12 - You noted that you were not considering inset because of space requirements, which I urge you to reconsider for reasons noted above. However, I do want to note that any framed cabinet has the same issue, so full overlay will also lose the same space. Width is the problem, depth is always adjustable in full custom. Any framed cabinet limits the width of the door to the width of the frame. That is what people are discussing as extra space and any framed cabinet will have that problem....See MoreMel S
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