Agreed on all counts CurlyGirl! For me, the thing that appeals most about the GH is the uber-efficiency of growing our own food right here at home. Everything we do is geared toward maximizing food without a major energy outlay. To me, personally, heating a GH all winter defeats the purpose of being efficient so I've never been interested in that pathway. I can see why folks do it, so I'm not passing judgement, but it's not for us. Yes, we do have our GH already, a Riga in Zone 4 Montana. We get by with a nicely insulated foundation, stacks of 5 gallon water buckets for thermal mass, and a predominance of sunshine in the winter. I also make a hoophouse within the greenhouse using metal hoops and many layers of fleecy frost blankets. This has allowed us to keep lettuce alive even in this cold winter. (Although I brought most of the lettuce inside during our recent dip to -27, but amazingly, even the lettuce left in the GH survived just fine.) The next thing I'd like to do efficiency-wise is vent excess GH heat into the house in the winter. So often the roof vents are open and perfectly good 85-degree air is venting to the atmosphere. I would love to have that warmth coming into the house instead. So I'd like to figure out a way to do that before next winter. What kind of fruit trees are you getting? How exciting!

My husband works for Sam's Club, and they do not take those check/coupons. My DS is on Isomil Similac and we have found the best deals at Walmart. For some reason, the Walmart by our house offers the huge can (1lb,14oz) for 2 dollars cheaper than the walmart by my work. My DH says it is b/c the income level is lower where we live. Anyway, the formula is always $15.54 and w/ a $2 coupon, it's only $13.54. At Kmart or Fry's, the SAME can is $22.50. The difference is amazing! Andrea

You could check Zillow, Redfin etc. (even Sotheby's) for your city to see what $1 million gets you for a fairly recent contemporary style house. This is a better, more accurate, and usual approach, though, and a very good education courtesy of our own Virgil Carter: Buying Land, Designing and Building A Custom Home, Part 1A Buying Land, Designing and Building A Custom Home, Part 1B Buying Land, Designing and Building A Custom Home, Part 2A [Buying Land, Designing and Building a Home, Part 2B[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/tips-for-buying-land-designing-and-building-a-custom-home-reposted-dsvw-vd~5213136?n=2) [Buying Land, Designing and Building A Custom Home, Part 3[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/buying-land-designing-and-building-a-custom-home-part-3-dsvw-vd~5213150) Also this is a helpful thread, https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/3836931/what-are-you-doing-to-make-your-house-enrich-your-life?n=38 PS Virgil, did I get them all and in the right order?

The contractor is correct. You interfere with the waterproofing and leaking occurs with “patches”. Tile, grout, and cement board are not waterproof. Waterproofing must occur. I‘m very surprised that your condo doesn’t have restrictions on working hours, parking, noise, contractor selection, contractor insurance amount, and everything else. That’s the norm in multi family buildings. No DIY work is usually another big requirement, because of the liability of potentially affecting your neighbors is huge compared to a single family home. One incorrectly built shower and 4 units could have water leak issues. Often your homeowners insurance has that as a requirement for multi family as well. It’s a pretty big disincentive to be personally responsible for any claims that result.