My husband had an old table in his workroom. We bought a big sheet of something in the plywood section at Lowe's (I'm saying "something" because I don't know what it is). It is not plywood, but looks the same size as a sheet of plywood. It has a very smooth surface, maybe some type of drywall, backerboard, or maybe masonite....not sure. It is a light gray in color and is about 5/8-3/4" thick. I had some wide 2" tape (like electrical tape) which I put all around the edges so the fabric would not get caught. We placed that sheet on the work table and attached it with screws from the underside. This post was edited by donnas on Tue, Jul 22, 14 at 11:22

After looking at the photo again (it's so dark that I can't be sure), I fear that you have a MAJOR design flaw. The only refrigerator that is going to work in that corner is a single door one that hinges on the right. Functionally, that is going to be a real PIA. A French door/ side by side refrigerator is not going to work. You'll not be able to open the doors wide enough for the bins to pull out. The refrig & oven cabinets need to be swapped, with the ovens going next to the wall. And make sure that the door casing isn't a problem with the oven doors opening. (Don't think this will be a problem because of the cab face frame; also, it looks like open oven doors would extend out far enough for that to be a problem. )

spent most the day looking at ventilation systems. Thinking about replacing current system with 10 inch rigid ducting, broan external blower 1200 cfm (not that much of price difference compared to lower CFM https://www.homedepot.com/p/Broan-NuTone-External-1200-CFM-Blower-for-Broan-Elite-Series-Range-Hoods-335/100025769#product-overview, and broan hood shell 30 inch with 24 inch depth https://www.homedepot.com/p/Broan-NuTone-Elite-30-in-Range-Hood-Shell-with-Light-in-Stainless-Steel-E60E30SS/202905883?#product-overview. I didn't look too much into silencers but I think this is what you all are speaking of in the forums I've read so far... https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fantech-LD10-Galvanized-Steel-Silencer-for-10-Duct.  Waiting for broan to respond about a duct cover since i dont have a cabinet there. I looked at faber, but nothing is available with higher than 600 cfms at 30 inch depth (must keep that depth because my cabinets are in the way). Also looked at prizer, abbaka, bluestar, z line, dacor, GE, stuff at home depot, stuff at costco, stuff at friedmans but something was either the wrong size, cfm, or not available. There is a fivestar that works but no pictures to see if the inside of the hood is "tent" shaped as recommended by @kaseki. @Joseph Henderson any other recommendations for good value brands? I looked at wolf too but the duct cover was so expensive! I started my journey contacting HVAC professionals in the Los Angeles area to see what they would recommend, but I haven't had much luck finding someone who does vent hood installation or would recommend something roof mounted which I found frustrating and odd. One company did recommend a KOBE internal hood with 600 CFMs https://www.homedepot.com/p/KOBE-Range-Hoods-30-in-600-CFM-Stainless-Steel-Wall-Mount-Perimetric-Range-Hood-with-Flame-Temp-Sensor-Auto-On-Off-and-Fan-Control-CH7730SQ6-WM-XX/310852212 which would cost 2500 including hood, installation, and "ducting changes". I found it a little odd that his recommendation for hood CFM was so low and the hood actually does not require any ducting changes whatsoever (Duct Width 6 inch). Another company had someone come in for an estimate and then said they wouldn't be able to give us a quote for a month due to covid. Another company I called for recommendations said just pick the appliance and he will install it. When prompted about what he would recommend he said usually the more expensive the better... Would love to have any recommendations for installation in Los Angeles area if possible since changing the ducting does require cutting a hole in the roof and futzing around my attic. i feel as though this is a VERY important part. havent heard back from friedmans (who sells appliances in our area) @M yes, I was on houzz forums last night reading about flexible ducting and fearing a house fire X__X larger rigid ducting is definitely at the top of my list. @Buehl I am limited by cabinets on each side, will definitely look at something deeper at least 24 in, seems like there aren't a lot of options that are deeper than that. I appreciate everyone's input. You've been more helpful than the professionals that I've contacted! I've been looking through houzz forums I can't believe @kaseki responded directly to my post! thank you so much it really seems like you know what you're talking about I will definitely look for 800 cfms and up.

Induction removes the gas combustion component of cooking plumes, but not the cooking plumes themselves containing grease particulates and moisture. Many induction cooktops can supply more heat into pans than counterpart gas burner cooktops, so grease splatter and/or oil vaporization and smoke can exceed that from a gas burner if not closely supervised. Capture: Nominally one wants a hood with a capture area that overlaps the cooktop by enough that the rising and expanding cooking plumes are fully (technically mostly) captured. This requires (at a minimum and excluding the back wall if present) that at the height of the hood entry area over the cooktop (h) the hood overlap equal at least h x tan(10deg) relative to the outer contours of the largest pots and pans to be used on the peripheral hobs. More than 36-inches height may require even more to compensate for drafts moving the plumes. Containment: Cooking plumes can exceed 1.2 m/s velocity upwards. Probably for most residential cooking with induction the likely highest is closer to 0.6 m/s, but this can be exceeded by dumping a steak onto a searing pan, or throwing stir fry components into a hot wok. To ensure that the momentum of such plumes stays in the (typically low reservoir volume residential) hood, the plumes have to be immediately entrained into the baffle slot air flow. Otherwise plumes may partially "reflect" out due to momentum conservation. It seems that containment requires a flow rate over the capture entry area of 60 to 90 (depending on cooking) ft/min, which is equivalent to 60 to 90 CFM per square foot of entry area. Hence take the area (sq.ft.) resulting from the capture paragraph above and multiply by 90 (or 60 if you are feeling lucky). Blower: The flow rate available from a blower is like that shown in the image below. More pressure loss means less flow rate. Choose a blower that is rated (zero static pressure = free air flow) about 1.5 times the calculated containment flow rate. Cleaning: The baffles collect grease particulates from the larger end of the particulate size spectrum, so any grease or oil cooking will leave a deposit on the baffles. These need to be cleaned, at least for aesthetics, and can be done in a dishwasher for any decent baffle assembly made of stainless steel. Make-up Air: The MUA required is that calculated in the containment paragraph, and may require a blower rating that is approximately that of the blower paragraph. Note that pressure losses in the baffles and hood ducting may or may not exceed those of the MUA path (with filtering and possibly with heating) so the blowers may not need to be identical. If there are no combustion appliances in the residence connected to kitchen air, it may do to have a passive (no blower) MUA system.