We looked at making the center shelf fixed and the others adjustable but choose to fix all as shown. The cabinet is for two boys and the shelves are sized to fit anything they have. The client is a designer here in Vancouver and like me does not like the adjustable look. I find that people never adjust shelfs once originally set up and that when ordering custom built ins you get a much cleaner upscale look without the mass of extra holes. In a dining room or family room this adjustability comes with a certain "Ikea" look. Often you are undecided at time of production. If adjustability is required just allow for movement one or two inches over a set height and not fully adjustable along the whole span. Or offer adjustability in one bank of shelves not all. By removing these extra holes the whole unit just looks higher end. My thoughts.

Mongoct, that's a good idea to just do a deeply recessed toekick to simplify cleaning if we stay with just 5" below the vanity. The room the vanity will be in is 6' x 6' (the shower and toilet area is separated by a pocket door). The look I am going for is clean and modern, but still tranquil and spa like. I will consider the under-cabinet lighting. Pharoah, thank you for posting that picture of your gorgeous vanity. I love your wood grain. It is very helpful to see pictures and know the measurements. I am afraid I will not get the look I am going for with less than 6". I can probably reduce my drawer section to 28" to get 7" below. I was originally planning on having 5" toekick drawers to store the scale, extra boxes of toothpaste and lens solution, etc., so I am really reducing my storage a bit to get a look if I go this way. Form vs. function is a constant battle. I am doing a wall hung toilet in the adjoining room, but that gives me both form and function as it will be easier to clean around and the in-wall tank frees up floor space in a not-large room.

Spanky67- I saw the same Finehomebuilding article. I couldn't find the switch they mentioned in the article locally so I went with the motion detector version. I might upgrade to the toggle switch someday if I ever get around to ordering it online ($30?), but for now the fan works great and I don't have to remember to go down and see if someone left it on which was my main pet peeve. It does go on every time someone enters the room, which can be a pain if you are just replacing towels or to empty trashcan. The toggle like yours (wired just to fan) would allow me to leave the switch off, change out the towels, trash and no fan running for extra time. Teaching the kids to turn on both switches is a little trickier (one for fan, one for lights) turn both off (fan still runs) turn on only lights (no fan continues to run). I know I could wire both fan and light onto one switch and use a blank over the other faceplate but then I am back to the same problem of the fan running too long if I only needed to drop off some TP, soap, etc. This is a ½ bath so no moisture to worry about. In the meantime this works out 90% of the time just the way I need it to. When we redo the kids & master bath upstairs I will start this mental dance of the electric switch plates/ fan/ vent/ moisture/ odor/ how many buttons to turn on/ off and not think about it again Âall over again. LOL Our fan is a Nutone 1.0 sones much quieter then any of the older bath vents we have upstairs which you can hear running from across the hall when the door is closed. The 1.0 is a very soft white noise you hear while in the room but cannot hear it running at all from out side the room when door is closed and can barely hear it outside the room when door is open unless standing close to doorway. I hope this helps. I know how hard it is to get an idea about these things until they are already installed and itÂs too late. I donÂt think you can go wrong with a fan 1.0 or less but definitely not more than 1.0 you wonÂt be happy.

... I am not offended by brickeyee - at least in any thread I can remember us both participating in - and it's far too late at night for me to scour the forum looking for threads where he might have said something that irritates me. Who does that anyway? I do a lot more electronics than electrical. This thread is a case where I've done something on the electronics side of things and, while I still firmly believe it'll work just as well applied in the electrical realm, I certainly understand and respect his concern. Most of what I do works. Sometimes it doesn't. If and when I'm wrong, it's just as important to me that I be corrected as it is to anyone I may be trying to help. Even when I'm not completely wrong, having to explain myself to someone who doubts me forces me to put things in different words, sometimes different perspectives, and helps me to better understand what I already know. When I did this, the subject of this thread, I didn't even think about the fact that capacitive reactance decreases with frequency. I just hooked it up. It worked, and I never asked why. When I first read brickeyee's counter, I thought, "he's right. It shouldn't work. But it did. Why?" Now I've got a theory why, but I would never have thought about it had I not been questioned. That's how I learn things. Of course, his point wasn't to further-educate me - it was to protect the original poster. I respect that, and I do not feel as though he was intentionally disrespecting me in doing so. It's not like he was calling me names. [He did raise issue with my "trial and error" component selection process, but I readily admit to being lazy when it comes to calculating things. I'll do the work if I have to, but if there's no danger that I'm going to blow myself up, I'll just try different things until I get it right.] All in all, if the situation were reversed I'd probably do the same - ie, if another poster on here, even a regular such as brickeyee, was answering a question with information that looked potentially-dangerous to me, I would probably, at the minimum, ask for an explanation - and if I were confident that the information was completely wrong (or that there was a better way), I'd state so - and I hope nobody would feel personally targeted by my doing so. I don't.