I have sunken living room with 3 carpeted steps down from both entry and kitchen. Considering LVP or LVT(as I prefer stone-look to wood-look) BUT am concerned about transition to carpeted stairs. Since LVP is thin versus real hardwood it seems that any bullnose they might offer is vulnerable. What is your experience with such a transition? This is new construction. ========= A thread on this forum used this glue down product and is pleased. "We have the Mannington Adura Essex Oak LVP, glue-down. Been almost a full year and we love it. Even the other contractors who came in afterwards thought it was wood, not vinyl! At the time the Adura was the only line that had one-piece bullnose stair treads." http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/4297843/luxury-vinyl-plank-opinions-please?n=16 ======== I also found this 3rd party mfg that says they will make/match trim for many of the major mfg of LVP. Anyone have any experience with them? http://www.versatrim.com/index.html

I honestly don't know the moisture content of the subfloor. Below is another floor (NOT a basement, it's a ground floor). The end joists are insulated with Polyurethane Spray Foam (4 inches = R24), so we're safe there. The upper floor walls are R24, the lower floor walls are R18-R22. As a matter of fact the whole house was insulated with SPF, the roof being R36. Of course we do get humidity fluctuations in Montreal, with our winters being dry and our summers very humid. We will be installing an air exchanger and a central humidifier. I'm guessing the humidifier would help? Would you still use glue? Thanks.

Our prior home had an open staircase - meaning no risers, just treads - so when we had the entire house repainted/replaced carpet and flooring and I wanted LVP in the front entry hall and stairs where before there was carpet, we didn’t have to worry about the risers too because there were none. However, after the flooring installers came and removed the carpet they stopped to call me on the phone and immediately advised we replace all the treads with new ones due to the majority having cracks across the entire width, the wrong kind of tread brackets on all of them, and to not replace would mean our stairs were too dangerous to do not just the stairs but the loft bedroom second floor carpet plus LVP in the bathroom. There was too much liability risk for them to allow a roll of carpet to get dragged upstairs potentially endangering their workers. So we had them replace the treads and brackets, then complete the rest of the job. Of course this was a home built in a SoCal gated HOA back in 1978, with no grass but ‘waterscaped’ ponds and streams instead. When I bought the place in 2002 the whole community had to be termite tented about 4 months after I moved in, and the fact that at least 3 of the treads in worst condition hadn’t completely failed before the replacement was a miracle from heaven. It was a disaster waiting to happen going up and downstairs! Whether or not your stairs are in similar condition to what we had experienced, I don’t know. But the pictures don’t show any truly noticeable ‘flaws’. Even if the treads did have problems, the time to have that addressed is when the flooring business/installer comes in to consult and put together a contract for what’s being done. If they don’t see a reason/indicate a reason to the customer regarding to replacing treads, it may be because they’re fine or may be due to trying to avoid submitting a bid that takes them out of the running for the job because it’s too high. So if the look your stairs have now is so problematic you want them to redo the work, you will have to pay for the materials (again, can’t really reuse) and the labor (again, because businesses can’t afford to eat the cost of paying for their workers to do a replacement for free when those workers could be sent to another job that keeps the business in the black and remain in operation down the road).

In theory anything can be glued to anything else. A riser needs to be fastened. Choosing the fastener is what makes this a good or bad idea. A vinyl plank that is nailed or stapled is a bad idea. A vinyl plank that is GLUED to the riser can be a good idea. But now the fun part...not all glues grab vinyl. And not all glues grab particle board or OSB. Especially OSB. Which begs the question, what are your stairs made out of? What vinyl product is your choice of flooring? When your stairs were built, did your flooring choice make it to the builder so that the stairs could be properly constructed/made to code to ensure an easy installation for your choice of flooring? Whew. So many questions for such a "simple" answer. I know. Stairs are tricky. Vinyl can be tricky if the wrong vinyl is chosen for the wrong application with the wrong adhesive on the wrong surface. Do you have photos of the stairs?