Red Oak Floor, 2-1/4 wide by 5/8 inches deep
andreadeg
3 years ago
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Patricia Colwell Consulting
3 years agoandreadeg
3 years agoRelated Discussions
1/2 inch thick quartersawn oak
Comments (11)3/4" of course will last longer. But quartersawn oak is so hard, I doubt you'd wear it out in your lifetime, even at 1/2". (This is an educated guess, but I'm not an expert.) That is unless you're particularly hard on your floors with lots of dogs, kids throwing heavy toys around, unusual traffic patterns, etc! In that case the polyurethane will wear out faster and something will need to be done to protect the wood. I've heard of "screening" but don't know what it is. If it's something that just takes the poly off for refinishing, you don't have to worry about removing wood thickness. Another thought: quartersawn oak has a characteristic look. It sounds like you like that look a lot, but maybe you don't need to put it on your floor. Plain sawn oak is still beautiful, and you could use the quartersawn oak in furnishings instead. They'd probably draw more attention than the floor. Floor width: With 4" you'd see l lot of the grain pattern in plainsawn oak, in 3 1/4" less so. Also, 4" is a very nice width, IMO, but it does give a different impression. I think 3 1/4" widths just about still give the impression of strip flooring that you associate with older construction and urban buildings. 4" just has a different look. It's hard to explain, but it's a little more informal I think, maybe a little less urban feeling. But really I think that's splitting hairs. Both will be very nice and I think you'll find that once it's down, you won't ever look at it with the scrutiny you use when you're planning it. One final thing: If you go for plainsawn, keep in mind that there are different grades. Getting it from a private mill might give you the best quality. Your typical commercial premium is next best. After that the quality gets crummy, IMO, with lots of short lengths, some knots or stains, and variety in coloration of boards....See More3/4 inch solid oak on 3/4 inch OSB
Comments (1)5/8 is pushing it, you will definitely want to use 1½" long staples. Don't use cleats in OSB, as OSB does not have the holding power as plywood, or dimensional lumber. If these two areas connect, place underlayment to match the kitchen height, and still use 1" staples as you don't want the fasteners to blow through the bottom of the subfloor. Staple every 8-12 inches, and no closer to the ends then 2"...See More2 1/2" vs 2 1/4" Oak Flooring Dilemma!
Comments (8)I have in the past, had this flooring made. Here is a breakdown of cost. 1"x4" red oak = $1.77 per board foot. Example a 10'x10' room requires 120"/2-1/2"= 48 boards. 48 boards @ 10' long = 480 board feet x $1.77 = $849.60. Next, 480 board feet milled into flooring costs $1.75 per foot = $840.00. Total material cost = $1689.6. This does make the square foot cost $16.89. This is allot higher then the typical $3.00-$5.00 per square foot cost, but some people are willing for the purpose of matching flooring precisely....See More2.24, 3.25, 5, 8 inch white oak
Comments (9)Mixed widths looks nice. 8" wide flat sawn white oak will shrink and swell about 3/32" over the course of a typical season here in Boston, so you should expect significant cracks between the boards from seasonal movement. That's why narrower boards are the norm for flooring. I wouldn't go over about 4", in or house we have 2, 3, and 4" wide maple laid randomly (using about the same number of sqft of each width. Less boring than all the same or a repeating pattern! We do get some cracks opening in winter around the wider boards, but I expected that and am OK with it. Quartersawn oak will shrink much less, but will cost a lot more (and be much prettier)....See MoreTimothy Winzell
3 years agoandreadeg
3 years agoTimothy Winzell
3 years agoandreadeg
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoTimothy Winzell
3 years agoSJ McCarthy
3 years agoandreadeg
3 years ago
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