Thank you Annz and Sherrilyn. Yes, it was the granite installers who set the sink. I should have known.... Supposedly the granite installers are "one of the best" according to our gc, as well as our neighbor, who used a different gc than us, and our plumber. But this "one of the best" granite installer screwed up our original granite installation by mistemplating and/or mis-cutting one counter top so that it was about 2 inches too short on one end. The end result was a month's delay and we had to go out and pick NEW granite slabs because our original ones were one of a kind and unavailable to match the rest of the install that was okay. So I didn't end up with the granite that I loved (what I have is okay, but I don't love it) and now I'm afraid my sink is slipping. I have heard through someone else that this GC is no longer using this granite installer. Hmmm... So far the GC has not returned our call, but tomorrow my husband will make a more "urgent" one. I have a pit in my stomach about this because I don't know if once an undermount sink is already in, if it can be adjusted. I looked underneath and it looks like it is clamped onto the plywood subtop. Sherilyn, the floor in front of the dishwasher looks okay, but you have a good point in that our floors are not level so water could run underneath and pool at the sink. That is what has happened with this sink leak where the water pooled in the cabinet and then ran down the back and forward. The damage is actually not right in front of the sink, but a little to the right. I suppose I will have to call the floor guy, although my husband said the floor may flatten down a bit once it's dried. I am skeptical about that.

A few questions: Are you certain it is PVC and not CPVC? Brickeyee is correct that PVC is not suitable for hot water - it is important to know precisely what the pipe material is. Diameter of the pipe? Length of the straight run? Temperature of the circulating water Coolest temperature to which the pipe is exposed The correct size for an expansion loop is easy enough to calculate given the above information. Loop size will be mute, of course, if the pipe is the wrong material.

The phrase, "We had to get creative to get the disposal to line up" is a polite way of admitting you did it wrong, and now you want us second guess why your inventive solution failed? Without the benefit of a photo to see where you went wrong, it will be much simpler to explain how it should be done correctly and you can compare that to what you have. When installing a drain line on a double sink with a disposal unit you must begin with a "Disposal Type" End Waste Kit or Center waste kit, depending upon whether the trap will be at one end or in the center. The difference between the common end waste kit and the disposal type is in the manner that the cross tube is formed. In a common type end waste kit the cross tube has a preformed 1/4bend (90 deg elbow) on the input end of the line which is intended to be connected directly to the tailpiece of a sink. In a "Disposal type" end waste kit the cross tube is a straight tube with a thin flat flange on the input end. The plastic 1/4 bend that comes with the disposal is discarded. You then install the rubber gasket in the disposal discharge port, then hold the flat flange of the cross tube tight against the rubber gasket and secure it in place with the metal lock ring that is screwed to the disposal body. This will provide you a cross tube that is at the same elevation as the discharge port of the disposal. You then install the tailpiece on the opposite sink extending downward. Next, feel the ends of the cross tube and the tailpiece where your slip nut fittings will be to make sure there is not a ridge of excess plastic from the molding process on the tube. If you feel a ridge use a knife to scrape the excess off the exterior of the tube. Slide a slip joint locknut on the cross tube and slide it a couple inches towards the disposal, then slip the plastic ferrule on the tube. Be careful here, if you examine the ferrule you will not that the cross section of the ferrule is wedge shaped. The pointed side of the wedge should be toward the end of the pipe with the wide side toward the nut. Slide a nut and ferrule on the opposite sink tailpiece. The ferrule will prevent the nut from falling off while you align the side opening of the baffled tee on the cross tube and the top of the tee with the tailpiece. (You may need to cut the length of the cross tube or tailpiece to get it all in proper alignment). Once you have it all in alignment slide the nuts to the Tee and tighten them hand tight, then give the nuts another 1/2 turn with your pliers. (Be sure you have the required 1/4" per foot pitch on the cross tube. For an end waste kit the cross tube should drop about 3/8" from the disposal outlet to the Tee inlet). You should now be able to easily connect a P-trap from the tailpiece of the Tee to the trap adapter on the end of the fixture arm extending out of the wall. (You may need to cut the length of the tailpiece to fit.) You stated that you have a leak where you made a glue joint on the PVC fixture arm. When done correctly it is almost impossible to get a leak in a PVC glue joint so lets discuss the proper method of making the joint. First cut the end of the PVC pipe so it is straight across the pipe and not at a weird angle. After you cut the pipe use a knife to scrape off any burrs that may be left from the cutting process. Using the dabber supplied with the can, clean the outside of the pipe wall and the inside of your fitting hub with an approved PVC solvent/cleaner. (This is a vital step because the solvent cleaner breaks down the glazed surface of the pipe and fitting to allow the glue to work.) Now using the dabber supplied in the PVC glue can apply a light film of PVC glue on the inside of the fitting hub and the exterior of the pipe where the fitting will connect. Quickly slide the hub of the fitting onto the pipe and rotate the fitting about 1/4 turn to insure the glue has spread internally and align the fitting in the desired final position. Hold th fitting in place about 10 seconds, then allow it to sit about 1 minute for the glue to set. If you do it in the manner I have defined you should have no problems. If you attempt to do it in any other manner, expect problems.

We're having fun now huh p3arljam? lol You stated you replaced the sink with this new one. I'm just guessing now and yes I could be wrong but judging from the looks of the sink strained is it from Ikea? I ask because some of theirs (and some others) have the drain hole set back further in the sink making the overall drain closer to the wall. This sometimes can be problematic. My first post may not have been as clear as I would have liked but was intended to explain how to move the wall drain and vent configuration to get it back closer to the wall to obtain more room for trap connection. Give homebound suggestion a try. If it still won't fit and you can't move the tee further back And Lazy Pup wont come over, I have one more thought. Before spending the money calling a plumber, have you considered switching the garbage disposal to the other side? You would still have to remove the existing tee to get correct angle but give you about 10" to work with. You then could use a wye to line up the trap arm and still have room for the vent. Place a cleanout plug in the other opening on the wye. Again my friend, Good Luck