All_Wet and eriocaulon, Thanks for more thoughts. I have no idea how old our system is, but we have lived here ten years and it was installed well before we arrived. I appreciate the link to Rainbird valves. That was thoughtful of you. I had checked Rainbird's site as well as Lowe's and Home Depot before posting here. I had hoped that I could find a valve with a "body" similar to these old ones so that I could reuse the old base and not have to cut the 1" pvc. However all of the current "advanced designs" are such that I cannot do that. Since all of the valves are 18" underground, with my poor hearing, I would never be able to hear the water running in the defective valve though that idea makes sense. I never thought of a stethiscope. That is also a good idea. I finally "flipped a coin" and selected one valve and replaced it with a nice modern one with a manual On/Off Bypass Lever. That seems to have done the trick, at least there is no evidence of any water flow now while the system controller is not on, and that was what I was trying to do. So I think the job is done. Thank you for taking the time to help!

I think most automated systems for residential use should stay away from sensors (especially battery operated) because the maintenance becomes too great. The sensors run out of batteries, or stop working, and your great optimization scheme stops working. Best thing about an Internet or computer based irrigation scheduling system is that they are (or should be) way easier to setup and change by using a browser form instead of the little switches and dials on the timer boxes, plus you get more programs. For my garden, I'm changing the watering schedule with the season and it's easy to do from a browser. My timer box was unworkable. Others may prefer manual watering. To make sure you are watering turf grass correctly just use the screwdriver test once a year. 30 minutes after your irrigation cycle stops, stick a long screwdriver in the turf, if it easily penetrates 5-6 six inches your water is fine, if only 2 inches, then not enough. If more than six inches, most likely too much. Only water once every 3 or 4 days to let the soil dry so the roots get oxygen. This will get roots growing to ideal depth for water conservation (for most turf grasses). You can do this manually, but you can also do it with an automated system with a little trial and error. If you want automated control with easy access, automatic seasonal and weather adjustments, look at www.lawncheck.com, (or click the attached link) just for fun! cheers Here is a link that might be useful: Easy Access Automated Irrigation

Para, True, valves close faster with higher water pressure. Anu, does the valve shut off when the controller is unplugged? If so, that also is a telltale sign that the controller is malfunctioning. We replaced a controller just today that was exibiting the same symptoms due to a lightning strike. Remedy: Replace the controller or if you have extra stations on the controller, move the wire from the guilty station to another station at the controller. All Wet Texas Licensed Irrigator #1897 since 1984

agrred the guy was a dolt for cutting wires that had no relation to cable and should have been recognized as such pretty easily. You can ask for replacement, but realistically if there is enough exposed wire on both side of the cut the wires can be spliced and protected for the long term. Just make sure they use a waterproof splice kit that incorporates a good coating. Don't let them just twist the leads together and wrap it with electrical tape. If you really want to get fancy have them put the plaice inside a weatherproof junction box. If the leads can be replaced without having to expose the entire wire run and can be easily pulled through a conduit, then go for the replacement. If everything has to be dug up then a splice is good. these lines are low voltage and not a huge safety concern, but you want to make sure the connection lasts. Here is a link that might be useful: direct bury splicing products from 3M