There are those who can't seem to understand why others threaten to "rid" those problem cats. Usually some owners of pets. Yet those who have to deal with other's pets, which is what cats are, who continue over and over to destroy and leave filth on other's own private property is a nuisance. There are some that should not own pets, that do not care what is done to neighbors. Those same people are the ones who have no say in what can or can't be done to remove those problems. What happens with these pets come down to the owner. Control them or don't. Would you let your children run free to trash and urinate on other people's property? If so, maybe others will return the favor to you and your home. Since it is apparently no problem there.

I think I got it at Target, look at Walmart or Target to buy the refills. I bought two of the big bottles a while ago, I really don't remember how much it was, but it is cheaper than buying the spray bottles over and over again. It is the best stuff, better than any other we have tried.

WHY FISH AND SEAWEED PRODUCTS? As you may know fish emulsion, fish meal, seaweed/kelp meal, and liquid seaweed/kelp are some of the most powerful natural fertilizers and soil amendments in the world. NOTE: For those organic gardeners who prefer vegetarian soil amendments, you can skip the fishy ingredients, it's not necessary. There is plenty of NPK in alfalfa meal and other grains that you can use. Most commercial fish emulsions are rated NPK = 5-1-1. Most commercial liquid seaweed sprays are rated NPK = 0-0-1. Even though these NPK ratings to a novice may seem low, there are lots of important trace elements, growth hormones, disease control, and organic matter in these products. Fish Emulsion is mainly used for its quick high organic nitrogen and available soluble P and K benefits as a foliar feed. Fish Meal is mainly a great soil conditioner and great bacterial food to help feed the soil microherd. Even though there may be 4-5% organic N, 1% soluble P, and 1% soluble K in fish emulsion, there may be up to 6-8% total N, and 2-3% total insoluble P or K in it, that gets broken down later by the soil microherd. Most commercial fish products are made from the trash products of the menhaden fish. This fish is a relative of the herring, sardine, and anchovy fishes. Most commercial fish emulsions contain up to 5% sulfuric acid in order to preserve the fertilizer on the shelf, but also it supplies needed sulfur to the plant and soil. Most economical fish products do not contain any fish oils in it, which supply extra beneficial soil fungi. Most also do not contain much fish bones which supply extra calcium. Seaweed/Kelp has a low NPK = 0-0-1. However, just like the fish products and all other natural fertilizers, there are more insoluble NPK nutrients and other trace elements in the product than meets the eyes. There may be up to 1-3% total N, 1-2% total insoluble P, 3-5% total insoluble K in seaweed products. The real benefit of seaweed is not in its NPK amounts. Seaweed/kelp can contain 60 trace elements, many growth hormones, and disease control properties in it! Basically every nutrient that any surface plant can ever need! If seaweed products are mixed with high N products like fish, you have an excellent complete natural fertilizer and soil amendment that will supply every NPK and trace element need of the soil and plant. Seaweed and other algae plants are some of the most powerful plants on earth, or should I say in the ocean. Seaweed is also an excellent food source for beneficial fungi in the soil. WHY MAKE IT HOMEMADE INSTEAD OF BUYING IT COMMERCIALLY? A. It's cheaper to make most natural fertilizers and soil amendments in large quantities. B. There are some nutrients that you get from homemade versions that are not in most commercial brands. For example, commercial fish emulsion since it is processed from trash fish, will have less fish oil, fish bones, and proteins than fresh fish parts or canned fish in a homemade brew. C. Aerobic bacteria and fungi are essential to hot composting, disease control, and soil health. In commercial fish emulusions there no little to no aerobic bacteria in the containers. If there were any growing and living in the containers, the bottles would explode on the shelves! Homemade brews always will contain more beneficial microherd than most commercial brands. HOW DO I MAKE A HOMEMADE BATCH OF FISH/SEAWEED EMULSION: You can use the following suggestions to the other suggestions in the Organic Gardening forum FAQ's on Compost Tea recipes when you brew these fish/seaweed foliar sprays or soil drenches. You can use fresh fish parts or any cheap canned fish. The juices, sauces, or oils in the can can be used to breed beneficial microbes and supply extra proteins in the tea, so use it. (NOTE: If you use canned fish products, you may want to let it decompose mixed with some finished compost, good garden soil, etc. in a separate closeable container for a few days before using. Since most canned meat products contain preservatives, this will guarantee that the good microbes in the tea will not be killed off or harmed in brew making.) You can use any fresh or dried seaweed. Fresh seaweed has more N in it, but that really isn't important for seaweed teas. You can buy fresh or dried seaweed at most oriental grocery stores. Seaweed decomposes better if chopped up or liquified first in water before brewing. If you are using fresh fish, you need to compost it separately in a 5 gallon closeable bucket. Fill bucket 1/2 full with extra browns like sawdust, leaves, or straw. You can add molasses to the fishy mixture in order to build up microbes in order to speed up decomposition. The sugars will also help control odors too. Open the bucket and stir the fishy paste daily or every other day in order to get air in the mix for better decomposition and better aerobic microbial growth in the emulsion. Let this paste rot for at least 1-2 weeks. The browns help control offensive odors and absorb organic nitrogen from the fish so that it is not leached out or evaporated. Since commercial fish emulsions contain sulfur in the form of sulfuric acid, if you like you could add 1-2 tblsp of Epsom salt to the mix for extra magnesium and sulfur. Or to mimic the acidity of sulfuric acid and add extra trace elements you could add 1-2 tblsp of apple cider vinegar to the mix. NOTE: Recent studies have shown that unsulfured molasses or dry molasses powder is best for faster microbial growth in tea brewing. You can now safely take the decomposed fish paste from the 5 gallon bucket and add it to your regular hot composting piles or add it to your special compost tea recipes. The more vegetable or fruity organic matter that you add to fishy compost the better you remove the offensive smells and the more trace elements you add to your compost and teas. This of course is optional. You can add molasses or brown sugar to your teas also. Sugars are high carbon substances that not only can cause speedy microbial growth, but also sugars are an excellent natural deodorizer. At this point you may want to decide whether you want to make a simple tea or an aerobic aerated tea for your needs. When you make fishy tea, you need to add the seaweed at brewing time. Let it brew for at least 1 week, stirring every few days. If you decide to brew it aerobically with an air pump, try up to 3 days, or until the brew has a "yeasty" smell, or has a foamy top layer on the tea. You can apply this fish/seaweed emulsion at a dilution rate from 1:1 to 1:5 ratio (5 gallons of tea to 25 gallons of water). If you like, you can add a few drops of mild liquid soap per gallon as a wetting agent to get better coverage as a foliar feed at application time. (NOTE: If you are concerrned that using soaps may harm the beneficial microbes in your teas, you may want to just use liquid molasses, dry molasses powder, fish oil, or yucca extract as a spreader-sticker.) You can use this tea as a foliar feed or as a soil drench or both. Soil drenches are best for building up the soil microbial activities and supplying lots of beneficial soluble NPK to the plant's root system and the topsoil texture. Foliar feeds are best for quick fixes of trace elements and small portions of other soluble nutrients into the plant through its leaves. Foliar feeds are also good for plant disease control. Foliar feeds work best when used with soil drenches or with lots of organic mulches around plants. You can poke holes in the soil around crop roots with your spade fork, to get more oxygen in the soil to further increase organic matter decomposition and increase microbial activity in the soil. Remember all your homemade fertilizers and soil amendments can be as diverse and unique as you are. So have fun and keep composting! Happy Gardening!

I think there is a lack of storage next to the front door - but I don't know how often you would use it, and being in Florida your guests are unlikely to have bulky coats. I'm in the South and don't own big, bulky coats ... but I still want a small coat closet to store family coats. They have to go somewhere, and they're space-hogs, if they go into the bedroom clothes closet. there is not a good bathroom location that's acceptable for guests Good point. the guest bedroom on the main floor accesses the main house through the kitchen. Yes, often I'm not opposed to this set-up; for example, I think it's fine if the pathway to a bedroom lies between the kitchen and the breakfast table -- but in this case, the pathway cuts through the heart of the kitchen. It's a complete no-go. I think there should be more windows on the sides of the master bedroom. Yes, both downstairs bedrooms could have windows on three sides -- they could be wonderful. It take longer to get down the slide than I would think. Yes, the slide's going to be a cool thing -- and it'll be expensive and space-consuming. Don't hide it in a corner by the mudroom. You've drawn the shower to be as big as the King size bed. Seriously? The toilet is at least 6 feet into its closet. Yes to problems with proportion. Start measuring things. Things in your house, things in friend's houses, even the half bath at the dentist's office. This'll help you develop your own idea of "right sized". Just want to note, things we store in our front “coat closet”: coats, lots of shoes, umbrellas, dog leashes and poop bags, packable stroller, market cart, beach towels...not just for coats, people! Good point. Right now my small coat closet houses coats and also the vacuum and many of the same things BB mentioned above. I am very much looking forward to a separate cleaning closet and a dedicated pet storage space in the mudroom. For example, if you have an electrician in your house to fix something, what bathroom would he use, if needed? I agree you need a spot for guests, but this particular question is so unlikely that I would not worry about it. Other thoughts: I'd flatten out some of the jigs and jogs around the edge of the house. They're more expensive to build and add nothing to the quality of the house. Stairs can be such a lovely part of a house ... and you're building a large /expensive set of stairs ... yet they're going to be hidden behind a wall? No! Open them up! How wide is the walking area in the pantry? It looks narrow. Look at how many gathering spaces /public spaces you have. How do you plan to use each one? I ask because I suspect you're over-doing this portion of the house ... especially because every family member also has a personal bedroom. I think I'd flip-flop the guest room and the guest room's sitting area. Why? Because you're awake when you're in the sitting room and can enjoy the view. Also, this would allow you to have the closet right next to the utility room /I'd open a door between this suite and the laundry. Also, I'd consider making this the master. I'd rather be able to come home (thought the garage) and have my room /my bathroom /my closet RIGHT THERE for me. Extra windows on bedrooms have already been mentioned ... this room -- not sure what it is -- but if you were to move the closets to the interior wall, you could have windows on two sides. I think I'd make this room into the laundry room ... it's probably big enough to carve out a laundry AND a half bath. You really need to pay attention to the windows; no other single thing in your house will add as much to the quality as natural light. The hallway to the master bedroom is less than ideal. It's a long walk, and it's going to be dark. I do like that you put a closet /bathroom door halfway. Actually, the whole master suite is bloated; you could have everything in this suite ... in a smaller, more efficient space. Upstairs bath: I'd downsize to one sink, which would allow drawer storage for the boys. Kids never use sinks at the same time anyway. I'd add a shelf /ledge at the end of the tub /bump the tub itself to the right ... something like this, which would give the boys storage in the tub: