Help! trying to grow roses in SW Florida zone 9. Not having much luck.
3 years ago
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Any luck with citrus outdoors in Zone 9a??
Comments (27)I have several varieties planted in the ground, Meyer, Moro, Naval, Calamondin, Owari Satsuma, Mineola and Ponderosa. Most have been in the ground 7 plus years. I have never covered them with anything other than some pine straw at the bases. Lowest temps one year were lower teens. 2 of the Moros were first year in the ground and the new growth at the top froze and died off. Both have since came back. Mine are all planted on the northeast side of the house...not the south but thats the way my yard is so there wasn't any other choice. I am thinking about a cold frame on a couple this year just to see if I can keep the fruit on longer for more ripeness. Rob...See MorePotted Roses in SW Florida
Comments (4)The key is sharp draining soil. My biggest problem with growing roses in pots is root rot. I've lost many roses to it. They start to die back and then you can see the stem getting black from the bottom up. I started to look closely at what kind of soil they came in from the nursery and I noticed it was very barky and not very dense at all. So I tried to mimic that. Now I just buy a special soil that comes for bougainvilleas and its been the perfect fix. I get it from home depot and it looks like this: I still sometimes loose roses, but not nearly as many and the ones I've lost have not been in this special soil. The heat works against you because in pots the soil will get very warm (with the sun beating down on it) even warmer than the ground. Combine that with too much moisture and its a double threat for root rot. The down side to this is you'll need to fertilize often because this barky, loose soil wont hold nutrient as much. Here is a list of roses that have done well for me (Ft. Lauderdale area, zone 10) Belinda's Dream-pink, modern pointed form, fragrant (this is an excellent starter rose that is very forgiving. If you get one rose in South Fl it should be this one). Easy Does it-orange/pink blend Cecille Brunner-many tiny pink blossoms about the size of your thumbnail Quietness-pink, old fashioned, fragrant Duchess De Brabant-medium pink, open loose blooms, fragrant, easy to grow Don Juan-(not suitable for pots but an excellent climbing rose, the best for the area, large red fragrant blooms) Tamora-(apricot colored David Austin rose, old rose form) Darcy Bussell (also a D.A. rose with old fashioned bloom form, deep red) Miss All American Beauty-hot pink (magenta) a very tough little rose Fragrant Cloud- red orange, very fragrant, very large blooms, excellent rose Fragrant Delight- somewhat sloppy form but very large fragrant blooms Love-very floriferous light red blooms with white reverse on the petals, somewhat sloppy form but always blooming Ingrid Bergman-(red) very fragrant nice disease resistance Dick Clark-very floriferous, beautiful deep pink/yellow blend Julia Child- yellow blooms, great rose, blooms a ton, good for a pot Secret-pink and yellow blend, good for pots Bride's Dream- good for a very large pot. very pale pink and excellent form. A very elegant rose A few things to keep in mind. When it comes to containers always go taller as opposed to wider. If you put a little mulch on top it will help keep the soil cool and retain moisture but should not cause root rot (especially if you use the soil I recommend). Lighter colored containers are better at keeping the roots cool. Don't get black as this will make it worse. Terracotta pots are controversial. Some say they wick moisture away from the roots keeping them cool. Others say they act like an oven and "bake" the soil. You'll have to try them at your own risk but I think if you keep them well watered, they are a good way to keep the roots from rotting as they 'breath'. Assuming of course its not glazed terracotta. Plastic pots work well in any case. If you decided to put the roses in the ground you'll want to get them grafted on fortuniana, but otherwise you can grow pretty much any rose you like in a pot. Chamblee rose nursery online is a good source as well as the two mentioned in the posts above (angle and rose petals). Good luck and post photos once you get them going :) PS Pruning is done either in January, or at the end of the summer (or both if you want to keep them small). I find mine are usually at their peak in Jan so I prune them in the fall after the summer has them all tall and gangly. You don't have to prune them too hard (or at all even) unless they are grafted on Dr. Huey in which case you'll want to give them a nice hard pruning at least once a year. If you don't they will die in 2-3 years because of lack of rest (no winter rest here), but pruning them hard lets them have that rest and will increase the life span. I usually prune mine when they look like they need it (getting tall and leggy) and not by the calender....See MoreLandscape Design Help / Advice in Northeast Florida (Zone 9A)
Comments (24)Yes, I understand that the immediate intention for the play area is not to install a play set. But it's coming eventually and do you want the planting scheme to do dual duty by working now and also be ready for the future without any major alterations? Or do you want to subject yourself to the possibility of making a lot of changes when a play set is installed? A year is NOT a long time. As the play area develops, it is divided from the planting area with a bed line. The bed line is something to be figured out now, on the plan (as information about the play set/area becomes known.) The bed line divides places where people could possibly walk ("floors": lawn, low groundcover, mulch-only) from places where they couldn't ("walls" & "furniture": shrubs, perennials and tall groundcovers.) Trees ("ceilings") could be located in either areas Another possibility with the pitts is to cut them down and do a total rejuvenation -- where you control/shape their re-growth (which will happen very quickly since they already have developed root systems) -- and trim them so as NOT to reach way out into the yard. Let them grow as a much narrower hedge which is later trimmed into tree forms and reaches and screens above the fence. Based on some of the prior discussion, I'm going to speculate that one potential problem that could come up is not devoting enough depth to the planting beds (that are likely to surround most of the yard.) In general terms, this bed(s) ought to be allowed 6' depth as an average minimum. There are usually instances where it can easily be deeper, and possibly some instances where it can be shrunk to 4' when sacrifices must be made. Plants require space and trying to maintain a bed that is too skinny/shallow is not only difficult & more demanding of maintenance, but it doesn't look very good either. That's something to be mindful of....See MoreGrowing rose from cutting - Zone 9b bay area
Comments (3)In my experience, timing the cutting is very important. I find that if there is leaf growth before there are roots, there isn't enough remaining stored energy in the cane to produce roots. The cane has to be mature enough to have stored energy, but not so mature that it is starting a growth phase or all that energy will go to unsustainable shoot growth. This means that cuttings need to be taken as the cane enters the pause phase between blooming and growing. Usually that is just when the flower fades. ”Roots before shoots and the cutting will thrive, shoots before roots and the cutting will die” is my saying. Good luck!...See More- 3 years ago
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