I am building a house and went with the thermy package...just couldnt pass up that deal. I read a bunch before picking and I hope I luck out and get well behaved appliances lol. I havent had them installed yet so cant give you any more info. I got the pro grand steam oven and the built in 42 fridge. Paid the small fee for the upgrade to the best dishwasher and got the free 54" built in style vent and remote mount 1000cfm blower.

I own a 36" Wolf DF and am one with porcelain issues. I love the burners with a great low heat and the oven is wonderful. I am looking to replace it though. After dickering with Wolf they have agreed to provide the part and $350 in labor. The problem is the labor starts at $800+ because they don't know what they will find and the time may vary depending on how fast the guys work. They will only guarantee the part one year. They used to replace ovens with this problem even when 4+ years old for a small fee. Most posters here and elsewhere have had more than one replacement and the replacements don't last as long as the one before. I don't want to risk inhaling or ingesting tiny glass shards when the liner starts to degrade. "I thought electric was a more consistent, and therefore better, option for baking/roasting? " "gas is better for roasting because of the moist heat. " Consistency has nothing to do with gas or electric, but bulk for thermal stabilization (providing radiant heat), air movement within the oven chamber(providing convective heat), placement of burners and accuracy of thermostat. Some companies seek to improve this by adding among other things,more insulation, more bulk, fan(s), a third and possibly a fourth element with computerized controls and and a thermostat with a narrower variance from the set temperature. When looking at humidity in an oven, you have to look past the immediate heat source and look at what happens with the oven and the cooking process. In general a gas oven has more ventilation through the oven chamber so the water that is a product of combustion is vented out along with more heat, so the heat is drier. Electric ovens are not ventilated as much so hold moisture from cooking. The moisture in the electric oven is beneficial the first half of baking breads and cakes because it allows the dough/batter to expand a little more, promotes starch gelatinization and allows better heat penetration of what you are baking. "Dry" is better the second half of the baking process. People seem to pay more attention and it makes more difference for bread. There are many ways people use steam for bread. "Dry" heat from a gas range or using the convection mode on an electric stove gives crispiness to a roast and may be better for some cookies, pies etc. External moisture has nothing to do with internal moisture of a roast. The amount of internal moisture is due to the temperature of the meat. Plus you have to pay a huge premium for dual fuel when in fact it does not cost the manufacture a lot more to make. You pay a premium for the additional elements, fans and the computers to make them run correctly. It would be up to the individual to decide what is huge and if it is worth it. They have fantastic 23k btu open burners with very even heat. No need for high maintenance tin lined French copper pots. What the heck does this mean??? If you have a burner with a flame pattern of 5-6 inches wide, if you use anything wider than 8 inches, you will benefit from a pan that has good heat conduction. Best is heavy gauge copper, lined in tin or stainless. Not everyone polishes. You can also get plied cookware with copper that goes in the dishwasher. Cheaper is aluminum available in several configurations including plied cookware. This is a very biased statement from a sealed burner owner that thinks dual stacking makes any meaningful difference. The purpose of dual stacked burners is to provide two separate burners each with its own range of heat. You would have to look at the range of BTU output for each burner to see the benefit. Rating by temperature is meaningless. I might have a BTU output of 325 and the temperature of what I am cooking could be 190 or 80 depending on the pan and what I am cooking. CC's 23k btu burners are capable of 145 degree simmer which is more than reasonable. Other than raw foodist, virtually no one needs or can use Wolf's 100 degree simmers. This is unbelievably presumptuous to pontificate about what other people should or should not find useful in their kitchen. I use low heat daily for -cooking a whole dinner or pot of soup in a LeCreuset pot using minimal energy -serving off the range, no worries about any scorching pastas, mashed potatoes etc -a short term sous-vide -anything that used to require a double boiler A few weeks ago I was making a syrup that had to be held hot while another step in the recipe was completed and even with the low simmer, it would not stop boiling. I could have "used" even lower heat. There is a whole big world of people that cook in many different ways. Wolf's sealed burners will not give you a decent stir-fry or Pittsburg steak while the CC will. Cooking is about the temperature of the cooking surface. The source of heat is just one component of this. A cook who understands how the properties of cookware work as well as how what you are cooking comes into play will be able to combine these things to come up with the right temps for the cooking surface on both high and low end. You can find blogs where cooks preheat cast iron to extremely high temps by low powered burners to cook pizza. Some restaurants cook a steak on a rock table side with no flame underneath. You just need to understand how to accumulate heat in your cooking surface. How are those pictures representative of the burners referenced? The CC is way off. I have cooked on many different open and sealed burners over 50 years. I agree with weissman that ease of cleaning burners depends on the build and also has a very subjective component. I think you have to avoid generalizations. Even the black enamel on the Dacor range we had was much more difficult to clean than the black on our current Wolf. This, an observation from my husband.

I wound up going with all gas to save money. I realized that I don't really cook in a way which required the dual fuel (i.e.; I do most of my cooking range top for instance). Adding a 220 line to my already escalating electrical costs was just too much to handle. I was also told that it takes longer for them to preheat, and for me - this was a consideration as I really dislike waiting around for the oven to come to temperature. Oh and, they really don't cook any faster either. So overall I couldn't justify the difference in price. Also, after weighing the pros and cons of both open and sealed burners, I went with the open. Personal preference for me. From reading up, I think both types will have some issues with cleaning/maintenance so I went with the one which I believe gives better performance. I had wanted a Thermador, but this too went the wayside as the 30" all gas was coming in at $4000 and change. I went with a Viking instead, as this was around $3700, plus they were running a $250 rebate special and, the store was able to discount the Viking another $250, plus I got 5% "builder's discount" off my entire order (I'm in the business). Thermador apparently was more strict with allowing discounts. I guess the Viking came in around $3100 when all was said and done.

I purchased an entire thermidor kitchen. 48” grand pro range, hood, dishwasher, and side by side freezer and fridge. The first time I turned it on the oven burned my brand new cabinets and an error code comes on. Periodically the temp probe tells me to unplug it when it's not in fact plugged in. It's been over a month and the repairman says it needs a new motherboard. The company is insisting I just let them repair an oven that was delivered broken and is currently a fire hazard. Not sure about the rest of you but when an appliance is broken from day one - you they are duds for life. Being this is my new forever home I would rather it be replaced. Thermador has sent me and my distributor through multiple hoops, they tell her one thing and me a completely different thing. They sent claim forms to my new construction home (which isnt an official address). They were rude on the phone. I have never gotten to use my Thermador appliances but would never roll the dice with them again. Because if you ever have problems, they will not help you unless it suits them. What kind of company has so customer service or pride in their product they won't replace a broken fire hazard? If you are thinking about getting a Thermador...DON’T Bosch owns Thermador... I've owned Wolf/Subzero and they were ok. Had some minor issues after 7 years but worked well.