You are welcome. I have a 12" Rev-a-shelf trash pull-out, and I find it's sufficient, although I have a large metal covered can in the mudroom. I compost, and recycling is kept in mudroom, but I think it's better to have smaller trash and wider drawers . Accounting for the slides, a 12" drawer has very little actual drawer space. 18" is much better for all the things you've listed, but I wouldn't do less than 15". I re-used some 15" drawers from my old cabinets, and you nailed it--they are my junk drawers, on the end of the cabinet run. You don't need a junk drawer in the middle of your valuable work space. Budget is a consideration, but a lot of GW members have used deep drawers for small appliances, pots and pans, and dish storage. Measure your appliances, pans and dishes first, and plan the drawer depth from there. Your 30" drawers across from the DW would be good for dish storage, with pots and pans on the other side of the range. One advantage of drawers is that anything in the back is easily accessible--no more rearranging everything in the front (on your knees) to get to the items in the cave. Bases with roll-out shelves were popular until folks realized that drawers are the same, but with one less step. Why open a door, then pull out a shelf, when you can just open a drawer? If you like the look of the cabinet doors on the short run, ROS are a good option. You could also consider roll-outs for the pantry. More expensive initially, but years of convenience. I have a feeling that the 9" cabinet is m/l a filler, to keep the range centered. I have a similar cabinet under my baking area, where I store cooky sheets and large cutting boards--it was included as a gap-filler, but it's very useful. If you don't need the 9" cabinet for those items, I'd suggest eliminating it, and adding 3" to each of your other drawer bases on that wall.

If you can find a client with such a narrow space for table and counter seating to interview about it, great. But you can also find out for yourself. Somewhere in your current home space, put a table with chairs and then mock up a peninsula with boxes or a piece of furniture with stools. Measure and get the dimensions the same as would be in your proposed space. And see how it feels. Try to do this with some friends or family over to see how it would feel while entertaining with some folks at the counter stools, others at the table seating, and others wanting to walk through. Or do it without other people if that isn't convenient, just pull the chairs and stools out as if people were seated in them. No cheating with pretending that people always sit in these pulled up close to the table because, in real life, that's not how people really sit. And then walk through. Again, no cheating with your arms while walking through and pretending there isn't a head in the chair that you could elbow. And remember that the table has to be positioned so that people sitting on the window side have enough room to get in and out of their chairs. I honestly don't see any way this can work in a way that is comfortable for people to move around unless you, DH and everybody you ever entertain are all super-skinny, petite people and your dining room table is only about 15" wide. There are a lot of people who design beautiful kitchens that aren't functional. And if their clients have never experienced a functional kitchen, they might even be quite pleased with them because they think kitchens tend to be dysfunctional anyway and that one must always end up putting up with something and making compromises. It's really quite amazing how many people think dysfunction is inherent in kitchens. We see it here in these forums quite often. Then if people take advice given and come up with a functional plan, they will jump for joy and share how excited they are to have a space that works for them and their lifestyle, instead of against them. That said....I'm not super pleased with the plan I created for you. I wish some of the more talented folks would pop into this discussion and offer you better options because I know there has to be something better. I have seen some of the talent here work with far more difficult spaces than you have and create kitchens of beauty that are highly functional. I hope they will join in and help you out. Personally, I would question any designer who told you that people don't like double-oven ranges and prefer two huge ovens. And then didn't even propose that you consider a combination microwave/convection oven over having two full size ovens and a separate micro. Unless you are constantly cooking, baking and need that much oven space on a regular basis, it truly is a waste of space in your size kitchen, imho. If you don't mind sharing who is designing your kitchen, I'd love to check out their Houzz page.

Mexican white 'field tile" and accent tiles from http://www.finecraftsimports.com/ fine Crafts and Imports out of Camarillo, CA. GREAT company to work with BTW! We got the mural here https://mexican-tile.net/Kitchen-Tile-Mural-Mexican-Kitchen--P2317632.aspx , also a good company; albeit a bit slow, but the mural comes from Mexico. BTW, Suggest you have a pro install the mural, because if you break one of the mural tiles you are SOL........

Please do not ask Lowes anything technical. That's just buying trouble. You may or may not get a correct answer. But the odds are on Not. I say that as a former renovation supervisor with the company. My colleagues didn't even know what a TCNA manual was, much less own a copy. The answer to your question is another question. Is the wall masonry veneer over a stud wall, or is it solid masonry? You cannot make the studs behind veneer go away in the clearance requirements. If they are closer than the 6" allowed in the "material sandwich" behind the range, then no, you can't use the island trim. You would need to use the backguard. If that is a masonry wall to which you are applying tile, then yes, you could use the island trim. But, your tile will discolor from the high heat adjacency. Just like the stainless back guard will discolor from heat. Removing the window stool and apron, then applying tile to the whole wall is your easiest approach to deal with any wood encroachment from the trim into the safety zone. Then replace the stool with the same material that you are doing for your counter. Or tile. But that isn't a Lowes's tile guy kind of job. They won't accept the liability. You need a private sector professional tiler with some skills beyond tile flatwork. And the counter fabricator needs to coordinate with the tiler as well. This is the world's smallest GC job, or else you need to coordinate things.