My guess is that 100 lumens per watt LED bulb is still in the laboratory, and likely costs a mint. Exactly. I would also point out that a $5 LED with an efficacy of 150 lumens per watt isn't very practical for home lighting when its output is only 50 or 100 lumens. A 75 watt incandescent lamp produces about 1200 lumens. Think about how many 75 watt incandescent lamps the usual kitchen fitted with can lights requires, and add up the total cost for LEDs. Ouch. And before you dismiss this, consider that blue LEDs cost about that much per copy, 10 or so years ago. On the other hand, as I said above, LEDs really shine (groan) in low-output applications, where incandescent lamps and even fluorescents have poor efficacy. My point is that we have to consider what technology is appropriate for a given application. It's important to distinguish brightness and illumination. You need brightness when you want a light TO BE SEEN. You need illumination when you want to SEE BY a light. LEDs have high brightness but poor illumination qualities (low lumen output). Because of the brightness, it can actually be painful to look at an LED. This makes them appropriate technology for situations where the light source must be seen at a distance. They're good for indicators such as automotive taillights and traffic signals. Because they emit light from a very small area, LEDs aren't very good for lighting up rooms. However, because incandescents and even fluorescents diminish markedly in efficiency as they're asked to produce lower illumination (lumen output), LEDs can be an acceptable alternative. (But find a way to eliminate ballast losses, and fluorescents could still win at this game.) Fluorescents have high illumination (lumen output) but low brightness. They produce a smooth, even light. It is not usually painful to look at a fluorescent, because it emits light from a large area. This makes them appropriate for lighting up rooms, but not so good as indicators. Rather than follow up on this any further here, I would direct you to Don Klipstein's outstanding lighting pages. Don follows lighting developments, especially in LEDs, pretty closely. This page has more on why LEDs are so well suited to flashlights and traffic signals. Anyone with an interest in lighting, especially high efficacy lighting, will most likely find Don's pages very interesting.

I have better lighting now with the LED recessed. In the adjacent room, the 55 watt 2D surface mount fluorescent fixture was replaced as the space was enlarged and replaced with 5 LR6 lamps (10.5 watts). The space is now better lit than before and the power consumption is less especially since the lights are slightly dimmed. The light output is 2700k which is just like a traditional incandescent light. The 6" cans and lamps are cheaper than the 4" cans + LR4. The Cree xR6 ( where x == L :: x == C) do not require any trim ring. The CR6 is dimmable to ~5%. You should be able to look at the lights at Home Depot (CR6) or Lamps Plus. There may be flickering if the dimmer is not matched to the load. ie - the load is too small to be dimmed. For instance the Leviton Vizia RF+ has a min load of 40W which makes it unusable with just 1 or 2 LR6 lamps (total load for 2 - 21 watts). Lutron dimmers seem to be better than Leviton.

This is not a proprietary connector made by Cooper. This is what is referred to as a "Title 24" connector. It was developed due to strict energy codes out of California so that once a LED module was installed in a fixture it could not be reversed installed going back to halogen/fluorescent lamps. They do manufacturer a series of potlights (RL4) that has a standard base adapter to retrofit to existing or "older" series of housings And I can tell you 100% that you have no worry of Cooper going out of business or discontinuing this line. The lines in question are some of the most sold in the market, and they were recently bought by Eaton for $11.8 billion (I work for an agency that represents Cooper) Here is a link that might be useful: RL4 series from Cooper Lighting

The Cree CR series is cheaper (utilizing the attached trim piece) and probably better dimming performance, power consumption. If you want to use a custom trim piece, the cost comes out to about the same as the Halo.