Even with 48" I have to be careful not to put my foot too close to steam head. You could do it with 42". It's just going to be a little tighter. I moved my toilet 12" so I could make mine 48". I probably could have gone a few inches longer but 48" made it simple. I did not do the work myself. It would take me forever and I would tire of it. I hired guys and did a little and butted in a lot which is much more fun for me. I hired the following contractors: - A guy to do the demo and frame the structure that supports the shower ceiling and the tub surround framing. I know his parents. He's quite good. I also hired his hispanic helper and a compadre of his to remove the old wall paper and clean out my attic while I had a dumpster. - Hired another guy that was primarily a tile guy. He also did most of the plumbing (including plumbing in the generator) with a little help from me. He and I both did minor electrical like moving boxes. He also had the usual crew of hispanics including one guy that did most of the prep and tile as well as the heated floor with my help. - I had an electrician upgrade my electrical service to 400A (I have some hungry kitchen appliances) and installed an attic sub-panel with a circuit for the generator and one for the heated floors. - Had a drywall guy to drywall the framing holding up the shower ceiling and fix the walls that were wallpapered and where we put holes for electrical work. - Painters - Cabinet maker And then there was the glass guys and granite guys. So, had to deal with 8 different contractors and about 6 or 7 different city inspectors. I designed it using Google Sketchup so everyone knew the dimensions of everything. Don't recall the specific tile but got it at Mosaic tile. I was wrong on the shower floor tiles - they are 3". HD did call it something other than Cold Spring but the guy knew what I wanted. After I made the purchase I didn't deal with HD anymore. Just the stone yard and the fabricators. A steam shower should be built very carefully to insure there is no chance of steam leaking into your walls or ceiling. There are a few different technologies and systems to do this. I went with the Schluter System. You also typically slope the ceiling so you don't get water droplets falling on you as a result of condensation. It's a bit of a pain and adds quite of bit of expense. I would do it again. The bench is not exactly comfy. It's a teak bench. Kinda hard and flat. But, it's awesome. We added backing between the studs that this thing is anchored into. It's not going anywhere. Folds very easily and is good quality. I spent a lot of time planning and dealing with contractors. Do I want to do yours? Wouldn't mind if I could earn as much as I do for a living. Unfortunately don't think that's going to happen.

Samsung RF4287HARS $1800 JD Powers 5 years running best FD Fridge. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Samsung+-+28.0+Cu.+Ft.+French+Door+Refrigerator+-+Stainless-Steel/9790988.p?id=1218175547555&skuId=9790988&cmp=RMX&ref=06&loc=01&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=9790988 Bosch Vision 500 series dlx wfvc6450uc $612.96 with onboard heater which,unlike LG,engages in all cycles. http://www.kitchentradition.com/_CGI/MODEL?KEY=BOSCH:WFVC6450UC&gdftrk=gdfV2934_a_7c137_a_7c4876_a_7cBOSCH_a3a_WFVC6450UC Bosch Vision 500 Series DLX WTVC6530UC electry dryer $848 With possible exception of Miele most water/electric efficient front loaders sold in USA. http://www.rainbowappliance.com/WTVC6530UC.html?utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=googlebase&cvsfa=673&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=57545643363533305543 SHARP Insight 24" Microwave Drawer Stainless KB6024MS $415 Manufacture refurbished comes with 1 month warranty with option for one year warranty.I have one so do several people on this board. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHARP-Insight-24-Microwave-Drawer-Stainless-KB6024MS-/190569126778?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0amp;hash=item2c5ece1b7a Miele Futura Dimension Series G5505SC $1749 Least expensive SS with built-in water softer. For extra $100 you can get one with an end of cycle auto-open door which helps drying. Electrolux ICON Designer E30EW85GSS $3399 BlueStar RGTNB Series RGTNB366BV1 ~$3200 Call or visit local BS dealer for exact price. Prestige Power Pack UIB401200 $1634 40" insert with 1200 cfm blower. Best in class. http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/UIB401200.html Total $13,657.96

You say you still are not sure you understand the differences between panel-ready and fully-integrated fridges. Please look at the photos on this thread of the fridges. A panel-ready fridge simply tacks the panels onto the fridge, and the fridge's trim, hinges, venting, and water dispenser (if you choose one) will show. Also, as Joe Henderson pointed out above, panel-ready fridges usually have black sides, so you have to be sure your cabinetry will cover the sides. A panel-ready fridge cannot be completely flush with the cabinetry, because the hinges are on the outside of the fridge, and there have to be a couple inches sticking out from the cabinetry so that the doors can open. As I mentioned, I do not understand the purpose of spending money to panel this type of fridge. IMO, it looks nicer just to have the fridge be a fridge. Alternatively, a fully-integrated fridge means the fridge disappears entirely into the cabinetry. No hinges, trim, or venting show. The fridge is totally flush with the cabinetry, and the hinges are hidden. With a fully-integrated fridge, usually the homeowner installs the same handles as the rest of the cabinetry (just bigger - cabinet hardware companies sell fridge handles exactly for this purpose). When a fully-integrated fridge doors are closed, it is hard to spot where the fridge is in the kitchen.

Jeffrey Grenz - You are right that often those type of locales have a certain style that can be expensive and add complexity. We are not Aspen, Vail or Tahoe. The whole county only has about 10,000 people and is rural and heavily agriculture oriented. But the town of about 3,000 happens to have a lake and lots of old growth timber. The secret has started to get out and many out-of-staters and out-of-towners are building vacation homes (second, third, etc) and prices have continued to rise according to the demand and the deep pockets. So, that. "It's just a really expensive time to build," is what we have been told. Virgil - Before we approached an architect, we spent considerable time thinking and talking about how we lived, what worked for us, etc. We were aiming for 2400-2500 s/f, Craftsman elements (strict bungalow not necessary, but some of the aesthetics of). We also developed three lists - "Must Haves," "Would Like to Haves," and "Would Be Nice to Haves, but are Luxuries." Here are the lists: Must Haves: 1. Maximize trees on lot – goal in new house is to feel “tucked into the forest” 2. Ease with flow of space, especially for guests/dinner; also some sense of indoor and outdoor space flowing together 3. Master and office on main floor, “age in place” principles 4. If crawl space, 3’ or more (standard foundation in the area is crawl space) 5. Attached garage, not detached 6. Mud room, can share with laundry room 7. Windows that are easy to clean on the exterior, i.e not super high! 8. High quality insulation and windows/doors 9. Optimal roof design for snow shedding and ice dam prevention 10. Kayak/paddleboard storage and drying rack 11. NOT cooking in the sun; that takes precedence over passive solar gains (we currently have a south facing home on an open hillside and it can get hot!) 12. Exterior materials and construction to minimize pests and maintenance 13. Outbuilding garage for M’s workshop (this has been nixed) 14. Open space feeling but not so much that creates imposing or ostentatious affect; do not want the home to feel big, imposing or overwhelming in interior or exterior; "warm, cozy, inviting" would be the feel words (totally subjective, yes) 15. Soothing lighting – interior and exterior, include under cabinet lights in kitchen 16. Storage somewhere for Christmas, etc boxes; current attic is about 10x12 and is plenty 17. Bathtub in master that is separate from shower 19. Sound dampening in strategic locations – powder room, master bath, wall between great room and master Really want: 1. Flagstone for patio large enough to have round table that will seat 6 2. Flagstone walkway to front door 3. Aspens as part of landscaping 4. Water saving toilets 5. Fireplace 6. Window seat somewhere please! 7. Green and sustainable choices as much as possible 8. Second fridge in laundry room or garage 9. Pantry large enough for Costco stuff 10. Rusted metal roof incorporated as accents in a few places 11. Entry door with sidelights 12. Apron front kitchen sink Nice to have: 1. An arched opening inside somewhere 2. Boulders with landscaping 3. Kitchen counters of quartz or granite 4. Epoxy floor in garage The only item I know of that led to corners is the window seat, which was created using a bump-out. Virgil, if you can point to anything else we asked for that led to corners or potential extra expenses, please do. This posting has been an effort to educate ourselves on where we might be able to redesign with a tight budget, as we have not made much headway in getting that information from the builder yet. This is in no way a disparagement of the architect. Our understanding from the architect is that the corners are needed to achieve the look we want. We agree that it looks wonderful. We would LOVE to build the house that has been designed. It is beautiful and would meet all of our needs, but the finances just aren’t working. So we are trying to figure out what features to compromise that could make it possible for us to build. Or if we have to abandon the whole endeavor and potentially build later if build costs come down.