hi & thank you both for your responses. i do not own a cat so thats ruled out. I have other plants that are planted in an organic soil type thing which on the bag states is a mix of "compost bark, sphagnum peat moss, pasteurized poultry litter, and an organic wetting agent" that are doing quite well. do you think i should replant these 2 in this type of soil? the room my plants are in is approx 16x18 and the only source of natural light is through my sliding patio doors. the room temp is at a constant 65 degrees Fahrenheit. i dont know what could be causing those burn marks on the leaves of my janet craig, its kept in a low lighted corner. the pot that the pachira is in is 7"tall x 6"diameter, the tree itself is 13.5" tall from the soil line to the top most leaf.

What state are you in? Die back can be from a number of things including moisture problems, citrus pest and diseases. My first impression is that it looks like the rootball is staying too wet. The tree should always be higher than the surrounding yard so the water has a place to go. The retaining wall might be causing moisture problems by not letting water flow away from the tree. The dirt you piled up behind the retaining wall on the right of the photo looks higher than the dirt the tree is planted in. When it rains there is nowhere for the water to go and so it sits in a pool. I hope this helps.

Hi Joan, I would check for spider mites. Look closely they are probably all around the curled leaf and then in and around the others.. The other leaves look green and healthy so i wouldn't worry to much. How is the watering going? Not to wet is it? Let it dry between watering... The buyer 3 in 1 Insecticide is a great product. Make sure you spray on a cloudy day or keep the tree from direct sun after spraying... All over tree. Under leaves too... Good luck!! Laura

Some of the leaf yellowing also looks like normal leaf aging as well, especially in the third pic. But there does appear to be a disease in the first two pics. Based on your photos, it looks like bacterial speck, which I get in my garden. But it could also be septoria. The response should be the same though: spray a copper fungicide regularly and prune off foliage at the first signs of disease. Don't let it sit on the plant the way it is now. You can alternate between Serenade and copper weekly, Re: bacterial speck and septoria--they're definitely far from the worst diseases you can get. Septoria doesn't affect fruit at all, for one, and speck doesn't always affect fruit. Both are relatively slow-moving diseases. You can usually keep a plant with speck or septoria alive and bearing until the end of the season. If you do end up getting spots on your fruit from speck, it's cosmetic and only on the surface, and the fruit is completely edible. As long as you don't have to sell it at market, it's not that big of a deal. The standard recommendation, however, is to never use diseased fruit in canning, as compromised fruit can have an altered pH, and proper acidity is important for canning safety. Re: nutrition--your regime sounds fine, so I would suspect the yellowing is from a combination of the disease and normal leaf aging.