We worked with our trim/built-in carpenter for the closet lay-outs (so it was way past the framing stage...you have time! :) ). The children's rooms are upstairs with 9' ceilings. We planned for the future with my dd's closet. She is only 8 now, but I wanted her to have a teenager's dream closet/dressing room! The carpenter put two rows of hanging space with shelves above on one wall, a more "medium" shelve with hanging space for dresses on a second wall, then we built two walls of "cubbies" including shoe cubbies, and enough for jeans, sweaters, t-shirts and cubbies with baskets for underthings, belts, purses, etc. Basically, she won't need a dresser in her bedroom at all. I was really happy with how much storage we crammed into the space. I plan to store her luggage on the highest shelves, and I will keep a little step stool in there. Ds's closet is certainly not as elaborate, but we did include storage up high for luggage, etc. We had 9' ceilings in our old house, and accessing things was never an issue. Now...downstairs in MY closet with the 10' ceilings...this is a different matter! I will need a ladder! lol!

The structural support of typical sloping roof rafters must resist horizontal forces as well as vertical forces in order to prevent the walls from bowing outward at the top causing the roof to collapse. In the current condition the ceiling joists act as horizontal ties to resist the horizontal force. There are only 4 ways to remove the ceiling joists and use the existing roof structure. 1. Remove the ceiling and leave the ceiling joists in place possibly removing 1/2 or 2/3 of them and reinforcing the top plate as needed. I've made the beam brace and reinforced top plate approach work with horizontal members as far apart as 10 ft. but it would be foolish to do that without the assistance of a good structural engineer even if a permit could be obtained without it. 2. Sister the existing rafters with larger members (2x10, 2x12, etc.) and raise the old ceiling joists to about the 1/3 or 1/2 point of the rafters (this approach is spelled out in a footnote to the IRC building code rafter tables). "Collar ties" in the upper 1/3 of the rafters provide little resistance to rafter forces; they are essentially substitutes for metal hangers to secure the rafters to the ridge to resist wind uplift. The connections are critical and often under-designed so they should be designed by a structural engineer. 3. Install a beam under the ridge with posts at the ends that carry the load to the foundation. Then there are no longer any horizontal forces to resist and the ceiling joists can be removed. The beam and its supports are required to be designed by a structural engineer. 4. Remove the ceiling joists and install diagonal braces from the top plates at each rafter heel to the middle of the rafter on the other side of the roof. Apply a new ceiling to the bottom of the new braces. This is a field built scissor truss that cannot and should not be designed by anyone other than a structural engineer. If the members and connections are not adequate the roof could collapse. So, the first step is to accurately draw the existing conditions in plan, elevation and section; then ask some builders what the costs might be; then hire a structural engineer to design it; then bid the project.

I'll be doing one here shortly only it will be living space. They are going to have the slab leveled as it is sloped and walls framed on a stem wall. If you have an older bungalow, your slab might not have a pitch to it like newer homes.For the miniscule pitch if it has one, you might want to keep it that way if you plan on re-converting to an original garage.

Angela, sometimes Life decides things for you. You must be a pretty young retiree if you haven’t experienced that! We were in our early 40’s when the other half was diagnosed with a permanent debilitating disease. It sure changed a lot of plans! He retired disabled, and I became a Certified Aging in Place Specialist to help others who faced trying to live in their existing homes or create accessible new homes. A retirement home should be fully accessible. That starts with the approach and entry into the home being step free. It’s great that you think you won’t move from this home. Given some of the issues with it though, you will be facing some remodeling at some point. Don't you think that it would be better to address some of its issues before it’s built rather than down the road when income and ability may not be as great as it is now? Why design in accessibility problems that you will really regret and will need to change? This forum can really help you with many issues, both functional and aesthetic, if you will allow it to. Defensiveness is only hurting you. Good luck with your project!