I’m adding faux cedar headers above windows
Cheryl W
3 years ago
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Cheryl W
3 years agoCheryl W
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Column, soffit, headers design detail advice? (pics)
Comments (14)great thoughts, folks, thank you!! rob, the "sunroom" space is now going to be the only LR and DR in the house, so I definitely want it to read as interior space. If it was still going to be a sunroom, and there was a formal DR and LR elsewhere, the in/out materials connection would be a good idea... but I think I want to be really "interior" space. I'll post some exterior pics in a sec, but remember we haven't started the exterior yet! That's the late summer/fall project ;) bmorepanic- good point about code. Hmmmm. I just showed this to our code enforcement officer yesterday and he didn't raise an eyebrow. But maybe I should point it out to him and double check? Actually, I originally had that wall drawn as solid, like you have it, about 18" just to cover the end of a piece of furniture. But then my architect stepmom suggested this as a way to keep the open feeling. smilingjudy- after I had it drawn as a solid wall (like bmorepanic's), I also drew it as a column morphing out of the wall, just as you describe. Stepmom architect still changed it. And I definitely don't want to fill in the area between the two columns, even though it makes more sense architecturally. The impetus for this whole thing was to make the house feel more OPEN and be able to see the view out that big bank of windows..... It's a small, low, closed-in house otherwise and that's a feature (the windows and big huge yard beyond) we definitely want to take advantage of. Right now, just the window and door mullions in that space constrict the view and open feeling, and we're REALLY trying to make it as open as possible. (The original renovation plan was to keep the kitchen in the corner where the mudroom is drawn, which would have left that entire wall open. Now, while I LOVE the kitchen in this space, it does close it up more with the counter and backsplash... so I don;t want to close it any more.)...See MoreAdding a window to a brick house
Comments (12)I was concerned about this same issue during a recent renovation of my home. We enlarged some windows, removed others, and changed the dimension of several others. We also expanded the brick garage by about eight feet to accomodate an additional car. My house is brick veneer, meaning that the walls are framed with 2X6 lumber with an outer course of standard bricks on all exterior walls. The house appears to be a solid brick structure. Anyway, my architect assured me that the finished renovation would be seamless -- and he was right. Sections of walls were disassembled where windows and doors were altered (rather than sawn), then reassembled by a mason. Except that I know where alterations were made, I doubt that anyone else would be able to tell that any work was done. If you click on the link below, you'll see a photo album showing my newly renovated kitchen. The last two photos show the exterior of the house where new windows and a door were added. Prior to renovation, there was only a sliding glass door on the wall facing the deck. The window wrapping around the corner was added and the window area around the door totally revamped. If you look closely at the left side of the last photo, you can just see where the garage was expanded. This has now weathered in and the slight change in mortar colour has blended completely. Hope this helps. James Here is a link that might be useful: James' Renovated Brick House...See MoreI'm not loving it. Front looks weird from different angles
Comments (47)I don't think there is anything wrong with fake dormers if it fits in a particular situation. To say that only attributes which are functional should be added to a house is absurd - and I doubt there is a single participant on these threads who doesn't have interior trim or other things which serve little to no functional purpose. Eh, thing is, the trend today seems to be, "A fancy house with lots of gee-gaws is a nicer, more impressive house -- no matter if they serve a purpose or not!" With that statement, I do not agree....See MoreRepaint peeling 100 year old cedar shake siding OR cedar look vinyl?
Comments (8)Thank you all for your comments. I am still so torn because the trim on the siding is rotting away, especially on the back of the house that faces north. Granted, this wood is probably 25-30 years old... I am concerned that it will begin to rot again, when new wood is replaced. Our window sills are rotted and even windows are rotted. I assume this is from rain and maybe it can't dry out enough on the sides because the houses are close together? I just hate to waste a huge chunk of money on painting/staining the existing siding and have it all go to waste. It is going to be $18k to do the hazmat removal of the lead peeling paint, replace rotted wood and then put new wood siding on the addition. It's not like this is a $5000 job... Another concern is that I just found out a lot of moisture gets into the walls and seeps out of the house? Is this true? From cooking and showering? So this can cause the paint to fail prematurely if there is no vapor barrier, which there wouldn't be, since the cedar is original to the house in 1918. I also have concerns about going over cedar with vinyl for the same reason. I am concerned that mold could build up under the new vapor barrier that they would put up... I remember one siding company said it is a bad idea to not remove the old siding and this may have been why. We have had issues with mold in various places like under the front porch, but once proper ventilation was installed, it went away. I just don't want to have everything sealed up to the point that no water vapor can escape and is encapsulated in between the layers of siding, causing mold growth. I'm probably over thinking it, but we are stuck in which ever direction we choose, and neither is "cheap"....See MoreMegz
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