I don't know which 48" range to choose
tresspearce
3 years ago
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tresspearce
3 years agoRelated Discussions
So let's say I don't want to go the Wolf range route...
Comments (25)Kitten, I'm with breezy on this. Forget the brand name or any perceived pretension that comes with it. Assuming it fits your budget, the main factors you need to worry about are is it reliable and does it meet your needs? This is your kitchen and you need to live with and use it on a daily basis. I ended up with a 48" range. One of my design goals was to maximize counter and storage space. I started out wanting wall ovens, but that sacrificed counter space. The 48" is a good compromise, because although it is 48" wide, it can double up as counter space as needed. I have a cover over my grill and I routinely use it and adjacent unused burners for either mis en place or plating. It's also a great landing area for items coming out of the oven. Depending on your counter material, you have zero worries about hunting for a trivet. You should also reconsider whether you really need a DF range. I have an AG and I don't miss any of the electric features in a main oven. I admit, I do also have a GE Advantium which does have all the whiz-bang features. But it needs those features to work properly. When it comes to the oven, it's just set the temp and bake or roast. It is a minor inconvenience that there is no auto on/off or timed cooking feature. But that just means I have to hang around. The upside is that I have zero fears about using the self-clean feature of my oven because there are no digital electronics to fry. Do go through the exercise of redesigning with a wall oven. But don't let superficial concerns drive you to go in a direction that doesn't meet your needs....See Moredon't know which proper a/c to get. need help badly
Comments (81)If you second floor is not cooling, you most likely have a poor cold air return on the second floor. Increasing the condenser size will make the condition worse. You must return 60% of the air, in a 2-story home, near the ceiling on the second floor. Hot air will float on the cold air. Without a process to remove the warm air from the ceiling the cold air will stay in the first floor. If you can feel your head getting hot as you climb the stairs and air is comming from the vents, it's the return. Poor air flow is common place in new construction homes. New construction homes are sized for A/C using the worse case sonero. Front facing SW because that is where the summer heat comes from and most of the windows are. Winter time loads are based upon the front facing NE. Now, every home in the development will get that HVAC package plus a little for Grandma.( 1/2 ton to a ton extra and twice the number of Btu's in the furnace) Why? Because neighbors will compare sizes and the developer does not want to explain to the customer about Manual J, if he even knows what it is. A good load calc program will allow you to rotate the building and see how the direction the home faces changes the load. SEER tells you how efficiently the equipment converts electric to cooling. Btu/$. 13-SEER will give 13,000 Btu/ kW. 15-SEER= 15,000 Btu/kW. etc. If you think a larger A/C unit is better, you are mistaken. A properly sized unit will yeil a home with lower humidity and more comfortable. If the home needs 2-/2 tons and 5 tons is installed, cooling costs will be the same if identical SEER units are installed. the 5 ton unit will run 1/2 the time amd the house will be more humid. Remember, SEER= Btu/$. so operating costs will be the same, you will not be as comfortable and your wallet will be lighter than it should. The internet is a good way to find out about contractors and a poor way to size an air conditioner. Find a responsible contractor, have him do a Manual J (heat load) and go with his recommendations. Do not pay attention to what the guy next door has. He may have a friend that knows a guy that installs A/C. Run like a deer from that guy. You may get a good price but no comfort. BIGGER IS NOT BETTER. When it comes to air conditioning....See MoreHelp! Don't know which walls to paint! :(
Comments (8)I think you are in a situation here where you have to choose which hard surface you want to ignore, and which one you want to compliment when you choose a paint color. If it were me I'd choose to find a paint color that compliments the oak cabinets; the reason for this is that the oak cabinets take up more visual real estate than the grey countertops. I can't think of a grey paint that would compliment the oak cabinets. The colors I would consider to compliment the cabs are green, yellow, or blue. Do any of these colors appeal to you? Also, have you heard of full spectrum paint? Full spectrum paint uses more color variants for each formula than typical paints and therefore blend more nicely with surroundings. Benjamin Moore just released a full spectrum paint line called "Color Stories". BM paint is a bit pricey...but you might consider full spectrum paint. HEre is a link to Color Stories. Here is a link that might be useful: BM Color Stories...See MoreWhich Induction Ranges don't pulse
Comments (32)To clarify a bit, the technical term for the "duty cycle" is "Pulse Width Modulation." It is also the way most microwave ovens work. At any setting below full power, the heating power is switched on and off with the amount of "on" time and off "time" being averaged to approximate a selected level of heat. The boil-stop-boil-stop results from the use of low-frequency switching electronics in many portable induction cooktops (PICs) and some induction ranges and built-in cooktops. That is, the power is switched on for a second or two, then off for a few seconds, then back on for a second or two, then off for several more seconds. More sophisticated PICs and many built in cooktops and induction ranges avoid noticable pulsing with electronics that switch the burner power on and off many times each second. My personal experience with browning butter in a thick bottomed pan (cast iron) on an inexpensive PIC was rather mixed. This was some years ago and was tried with a ten-inch cast iron pan on some less expensive PICs (a Duxtop/Secura model and a Max Burton one). Basically, it was problemmatic when working with smaller quantities (say, half a stick of butter) and sort-of okay with two or three sticks provided I took a long time to preheat the CI pan. Might have been different if I'd had a smaller cast iron sauce pan, but I doubt it. Like metlmann, I just found it easier to use a burner on a gas stove for that task and moved on after several less than satisfying experiments with the inexpensive PICs. FWIW, I recently easily browned a small quantity of butter in an ordinary small saucepan on a Vollrath commercial PIC unit. The Vollrath does not seem to have the pulsing problem on anything I've used it for....See Moretresspearce
3 years agoeverpark
3 years ago
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