Most manufacturers recommend 100% silicone bath and tile caulking in corners. ( no grout ) I have had great results with epoxy grouts if you can find your color selection. A bit more labor intensive but well worth it. Check with a local tile distributor. Difference between sanded and unsanded. For residential applications, siliconized latex is more than sufficient. As for the epoxy grout, it's my opinion that with a few specific exceptions, in residential installations, it's expensive overkill. As for differences in the grouts, those of you who aren't familiar with them, you can check it out in the FAQ's on the gallery side of this forum. As for Colorfast and Mapei, yes, I'm familiar with both of them, and the only times I've ever had problems with Colorfast's caulkings was when it was old. I've yet to ever see what I'm seeing in the pictures up above.

Hey Tracey Strangely enough I'm a Sales Mgr for a sealant company (caulk opens me up for too many jokes, ha). First question, Are you painting over the caulk? Second, If you are using it near water I would not go with a Latex, because water breaks down latex and eventually you will have failure. Even if it says silconized latex, it is still a Latex and the silconized part is mainly a marketing ploy. If I were doing my bathroom I would use a product called Lexel. It is a clear(literally crystal clear) elastomeric co-polymer, so no ugly caulk line but all the same benefits of a silicon and it's paintable if you ever need to paint it. Also, it will bond to marble with out etching. My second choice would be a Neutral Cure Silicon, which is important because other varieties of Silicon are cured with acids which hurt Marbles and Granites.

Hi chabang-- I just installed those same Ann Sacks pennyrounds on my floor in Rice Paper (white with a gray halo). Love them so far-- and I was surprised how affordable they were despite being Ann Sacks. We almost used that gorgeous Cornflower blue color, and I bet yours are going to be great. Anyway, to answer your question... To me, the beauty of those tiles is the halo effect and the shape, so I'd want to choose a grout color that highlights those things. I went with a gray grout because I didn't want the hassle of cleaning white. But, in hindsight, I regret that the grout color blends so closely with the halo, and that there isn't more contrast. I also am not a huge fan of dark grout lines. Those things might argue against using the Waterfall, and might suggest using a color closer to the Biscuit. On the other hand- the benefit to using grout with little color contrast was that it masked imperfections in the grout job. We DIYed the installation, and found it was challenging to get the mosaic laid evenly depth-wise in the thinset. The other benefit to darker grout is that its easier to keep clean. Perhaps since you already bought the Waterfall you could do a test sheet? Also, I don't think you need Waterfall caulk, the Warm Gray should cover it. Good luck!

Bill, here is a picture of my tile (it's at the base of the vanity arch). You think Linen would "blend" too much? I used Canvas with my ivory travertine on the kitchen backslpash. I wanted to use Linen but DH thought it needed to BLEND. Linen would have given the tile some definition. This porcelain is like an ivory colored travertine. From the website, it looks like Haystack would be a tad too dark BUT, I know the grout is going to dry 2 shades lighter than the sample stick. Hey, wouldn't a enhancing sealer darken the grout? If so and Linen wasn't quite dark enough, the enhancing sealer (I know you don't believe in sealers) might make it the perfect color. But that doesn't solve the "no caulk in that color" issue. I went to Mapei's website but didn't see a color chart. If you find something in Mapei that is close to the Linen or in-between Linen and Haystack, please let me know. I don't mind using Mapei grout. I didn't know the cualk was sanded or unsanded :o We used clear in the kitchen so I don't have any experience with colored caulk. Thanks Bill