Hey, Billy Rae! Go for it! You have nothing to fear! My only advice, up front, is this: Don't buy a braided group of plants. In my opinion, the braided plants are doomed to failure. Now, onto the story of how I came by my Pachira: My brother has a Pachira that used to be braided...slowly, all but one of the trunks died. The remaining trunk had been the largest/healthiest from the start, which is why I always suggest that a buyer simply purchase a full, healthy, single-trunked specimen. Anyhow, my brother is rough on plants. During one of his "moods," he broke several leaves off his Pachira...I can't remember if he bit them off, or if he was swinging his glow-sticks around the room like weapons. Long story short, he placed one of those leaves in the bottom of a plastic cup, filled with generic peat-based potting soil. The soil was constantly moist/wet because there were no drainage holes in the cup. He handed me the cup, and said here, take it. So I did. I brought the leaf from Sacramento to Auburn, where it sat from February to May on a warm Eastern window-sill. Surprisingly, it grew into a full-sized plant! Now, I summer my Pachira on the front deck (western exposure), beneath a large maple tree. One year, I put my Pachira out before the maple had leafed-out...big mistake! Nearly every Pachira leaf was sunburned white. New leaves grew when the dead leaves dropped, but now I know to wait until I can offer filtered sunlight. After a period of acclimation, Pachira can handle quite a bit of sun. Josh

If you don't ever repot, the expanding root system will eventually die and cannot hold water if most of the soil is eventually used up. Of course you have to repot, just do it carefully.

transplant shock followed by sunburn .. did you put it in full sun after being in the house all winter ... soil looks improper for a tree .. of which we need an ID ... i think its a norfolk island pine.. but i am not sure ... why do you think its a spruce??? and the media looks dry ... and too peaty... never fertilize a stressed plant ... good luck ken

At this point, I would not move it anymore but wait out the rest of the winter. Lay off the watering and keep the soil on the dry side. If in doubt about watering now--DON't. DO NOT FERTILIZE! Mist the remaining leaves and stems frequently if you can. When the weather warms and settles, place it outside into a protected, deeply shaded spot until it acclimates (a couple of weeks), then move it into full sun. Once it is shows signs of new growth, you can start watering more and start fertilizing. (I move most of my citrus out by early April to the south side of the house--but, being near the coast, excessively wet or chilly conditions may still force me to drag some back into the garage until late April.) Citrus really have a problem with indoor heating during our winter season. This is why I keep almost all my citrus in a garage where the winter temp is maintained in the 40-60 degree range. Under these conditions I never experience any leaf drop with the citrus (lemons, oranges, kumquats, limequats, etc.) Limes tend to like it a bit warmer than other citrus but they still suffer in our homes in the winter. The only citrus I currently have in the house is a Kaffir lime as they are more tropical; it's on a radiator and is actually doing very well (something must citrus would HATE). Having said all this, I suspect that your tree should make it (still having green stems is a good sign.) Good luck!