Countertop not flush on side near stove and caulking. Big deal?
Mike
3 years ago
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Comments (20)
Mike
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Sinks and Stove on Same Counter Run
Comments (21)If you do put your range in the island...and it's something I am not suggesting (or supporting), then be sure you have (1) plenty of room for safety margin on both sides and behind, (2) plenty of space to actually work in as well as landing space, and (3) very, very good overhead venting. (Downdrafts are almost useless...in my experience...see the Appliances Forum for more information on venting.) Safety...I strongly recommend 24" on each side and behind the range. This is especially important if you have seating at the island or if the aisle behind the island is a commonly used thoroughfare. This is to prevent grease splatters/scalding/smoke-out of those seated at the island or walking past. (One GWer said that even though they had a raised counter behind their cooktop/range and "knew" the range/cooktop was there, her DH still set a newspaper on fire while he was reading it at the island.) Work & Landing Space...You need at least 36" on one side (preferably both) for adequate workspace. Remember, you need not only workspace but landing space. So, maybe 24" on one side for landing space and 36" on the other side for workspace if you can't put 36" on both sides. Venting...Cooking in an open space like an island or peninsula can cause even greater issues with grease/smoke/steam/odors/etc. There are more and stronger air currents in an open space than against a wall...that means the grease/smoke/steam/odors/etc. will travel farther and faster from island cooking. So, to compensate for that, you need very, very good venting. It's almost more important that you have very good venting in this case than against a wall. You need a rangehood... At least 6" wider than the cooking surface...so, for example, a 30" cooktop/range would mean a 36" hood A hood at least 24" deep, preferably 27" At least 600 or 900 cfms. If you mount it higher than recommended (usually 30" high), then you will need even more cfms. [Most people want to mount then higher b/c otherwise they are in your face when cooking.] BTW...venting from an island/peninsula is more expensive than from a wall, especially an exterior wall. An island hood is finished on all 4 sides, duct work has to go up and out, and you need a larger & more powerful hood. With a range/cooktop in the island, you now lose the great expanse of workspace an island offers...space for large baking & cooking projects, crafts, homework & science fair projects (if you have children or grandchildren), wrapping gifts, staging appetizers or a buffet, etc. You say you "...prep, cook, prep, cook..." but, you need water for prepping...so that means what you're really going to do is "...prep at sink, turn around, cook, turn around, prep at sink, turn around, cook, turn around...". And, since 70% of the work & time spent in the kitchen is prepping and only 10% is spent cooking, that means you will still spend most of your time facing the wall. (The other 20% is spent cleaning up.) If you only have one sink and don't want the range & sink on the same run of counter, then a better idea, IMO, is to put your sink in the island and your range against the wall. This way, 90% of the time will be spent at the island (70% prepping + 20% cleaning up) and only 10% (cooking) against the wall. An even better idea, to me, is to have a prep sink on one end of the island across from the range for prepping (& emptying/filling pots) while leaving the large expanse of space for not just prepping, but also those projects/tasks I mentioned above. The cleanup sink, DW, and range would stay against the wall. That also helps to keep cooking messes off the island, btw. In the end, do what you want b/c this is your kitchen; just be sure you've thought out the pros & cons...safety, function, and aesthetics. Once you've carefully considered them, make your decision. You will have weighed the pros & cons of each location and you will know what to expect...no surprises and no "I wish someone had told me" regrets. I know, this is really difficult...but I'm sure in the end you'll be happy with the results b/c of your thinking, planning, and thinking again about it all! Good luck!...See MoreSurvey: Use of countertop/prep space on either side of cooktop?
Comments (53)Remodelfla, Just a question, where is your microwave or will you have one? I agree with bmorepanic about the structure of the plumbing being really important to the ability to have trash under the cabinet or not. Also, look for sinks that have the drain towards the back and to one side (Franke GNX110-28 comes to mind). If you have a 12" cabinet on one side of the sink, you can use that for trash cans. If you go down to an 18" DW, that can go up to an 18" cabinet for a large trash pullout. Regarding the height of the prep area, you can always adjust the height by using adjustable legs. I have included a link below, you will have to figure out how to integrate this into your baking center. This gives you flexibility in leveling the cabinet and also changing the height as you go along! Good luck! Here is a link that might be useful: Some example of levelers...See MoreGap on the side of new granite counter and cabinet!
Comments (23)Oh, now I see. I assumed your cabinets were new. Sorry. Now it all makes sense. It is normal for cabinetmakers to use scrap materials--perhaps even patched together--to build the "blind" surfaces (i.e. the parts that nobody will see once the cabinet is installed). So it's nobody's fault, really. But it's still a tough situation. The only way I can see of making it look as if it were originally built the way you want it is to temporarily remove your oven cabinet, take it to a shop, and perform "surgery" and refinishing on it to add a true finished side. But that would be fairly expensive.. If you don't insist on perfection, you could hire a finishing specialist (or someone who restores furniture) to cut out the utility grade material, patch in some cabinet grade material, carefully putty it over, sand it, and spray it on site. If your hire is skillful enough, you'll only see that it's been "reverse-engineered" if you look at it up close, and she or he might be able to build out the side so as to close up that ugly gap in the process. Just some ideas. Good luck!...See MoreCounter top not flush with fresh tile
Comments (59)Kristi, if you live in Calif you have a boat load of legal help from the contractors state board. There's a specific way about going about it though that's allot quicker. Otherwise it can be painfully slow. The strategy if available. Does he have a bond? Liability insurance? If yes to any of the above. Stop the project. As soon as you say I don't feel comfortable doing business with you legally he has to stop. Business and professions code. My gut is telling me a permit was not pulled, unless you live in the hills of Tennessee I think every city requires one. Although your outlet has a GFCI at it's current height it's problematic. I don't want you to be alarmed. Everything you've shown can be easily remedied to how it should be. As far as the die lot of tile. Lol drama okay. It's white you'll find a perfect match. Do yourself the favor, rid yourself of the aggravation by having to point out the obvious wrongs. My greater concern, those things in which you can't see. Really hope you're in Cali. Tons of resources....See MoreMike
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