I went ahead and removed the brick from the corner (left side of first picture) so I could go ahead and attach the vinyl siding corner. The bricks came loose pretty easily although it was a little bit of a pain to get every other one out since they are interlocked. I think they will come off quite easily once I start stripping them off a whole row at a time. I'm using a small air chisel which works really well and I've found that I can even use it to quickly pop all the mortar off the bricks. That way I will be able to reuse most of them for another project rather than just trashing them. :)

Thanks so much for your help. According to Case#2, you have to get those anchor iron into the foundation somehow. How does that happen? I also got the following suggestion from an online expert (Bruce Johnson): Hi Susan, digging down to the existing footer is the best method. Next would be to drill and epoxy rebar into the existing foundation wall and pour an attached footing at a higher elevation say 8" below grade, install one course of masonry to bring it to grade and then start your brick. The angle iron will work but it would have to be hot dipped galvanized and pre drilled prior to galvanization and installed with galvanized fasteners. Otherwise it will eventually rot away leaving the brick unsupported. I hope this information helps, please feel free to write again regarding this or other matters. That would address the issue of how it looked finished under the angle iron, I would think. THe Tru-Brix system does not allow for adhering brick directly to the wood sheathing. There is a steel channel system installed first and then the bricks are slid onto that and then mortared into place. There is an installation video at their site at tru-brix.com. The Tru-Brix guy, naturally, says digging to the foundation risks disturbing your tile system and gravel which I don't want to do. Access to the interior side of the wall isn't possible as it's my husband's home theater and not even my love of brick would allow that room to be distrubed. So it seems it is Tru-Brick or the angle iron and I'm not thrilled to have holes drilled into my foundation (interior leaking). Your thoughts on this are appreciated.

I like the idea of adding some wood trim to frame out the front door. The only problem is that you have the same problem with your ranch home that I have with my two - no room at the top! The traditional-looking trim with the large capital (I think the top trim is called) does not work because your roof is right above your door. In the long run, when you redo the roof, you can consider making a little peak above your front door to bring attention to it and give room above it for trim and to distinguish the front door from the rest of the roof line, but for now, most of the more traditional trim options are out. Really, all I can imagine you doing is just putting some wooden or vinyl trim that you like better than what you have next to the front door. Try out designs until you find one you like. There is fluted molding, plain flat molding, or you could have squares of picture-frame molding - options are endless with wood and more limited with your vinyl products. Figure out what product you are using and then you will know what your options are. As for the blank areas of wall space between the windows and doors, I think that your landscaping plan will need to address them. The little sidewalk being so close to the house is limiting you there. Are you able to take it out and put in a curvaceous path to the door that allows for space to plant taller plants in those empty wall spaces? I hear your frustration with fixing poor construction practices of past builders! I have "saved" both of my ranch homes from ills caused by poor construction or bad luck. We are still paying off foundation repairs on the house we now live in, and had to put a new roof in with no extra to put toward nice updates because of the bad timing. I am already planning the new bathroom we will need because of a rotted floor, but can't do it for three years because we are paying off the foundation and roof. This is being a homeowner!

"So, if one guy says "we will take off all the brick" and another guy says "you need a lintel, leave the brick" who to believe?" In conventional construction brick lends no structral support so I see no reason to install a lintel to hold it up unless it looks good. If the brick is indeed incased inside wall that hints at improper construction. Doesn't guarrantee it,just hints at it. From the standpoint of increasing width of opening,that may be better. Here's why. I suspect the addition has a stand alone wall sitting beside origional wall. If that's the case,you will of course need two headers but they can be much lighter,thus not hang as low as if the addition's roof load is carried by a header in origional wall. I think when the contractor explains the actual situation you will be fine.