Light won't be the problem. Humidity will be. Roses need a ton of humidity to grow. If you can get some kind of misting system that would be best. Otherwise try putting them on a large pan with about an inch of pebbles in the bottom with water about half way up the pebbles. You don't want the pots to be touching the water. That should bring the humidity up around the roses. Never let the soil in the pots get completely dry either but don't keep them soaking wet all the time. Roses are finicky about not having their roots sit in pools of water. So what ever containers you use make sure they have drainage holes. I use clear plastic cups so I can see when they get roots without having to disturb the cuttings. If you're interested I just posted my method on this thread but I don't do mine inside. I do them outside during my growing season. Here is a link that might be useful: rooting cuttings

Flowersaremusic I agree with you on above climate ect. Mine was nine years old and had not been nearly as beautiful as usual for the last 2 maybe 3 years. I decided to dig it up at the end of this year and replace it. Is was full of disease with very small flowers. while digging part of the crown broke off. I reached down and pushed on more of the crown that part broke off. No wonder the poor rose was looking poorly as the crown was in decay. I could also see that it was grafted since I plant those on a angle. In my wetter environment and needing to bury grafts that the grafted area eventually rots away and effects the crown. Could also be affected by below zero weather. I'm also considering applying more fertilizer. Sort of thinking that some continuous bloom roses could use more than what I give them. Felt so bad taking out the old rose. Happy now that it is done and a fresh new beauty will be coming.

With more observation, I agree with Kim and revise my recommendation in terms of the windowsill. If the air is still, plants/cuttings are more likely to get diseases like powdery mildew as well as spider mites, and the window where I rooted the Old Blush only had direct sunlight for an hour or two a day, with bright indirect light the rest of the day. It is also under the swamp cooler ducts and next to the washroom sink so there was some humidity and air circulation. In my orchid case, there are fans to circulate the air, and high humidity with timed misters so this may have helped with my success rate. I had a number of failures with Bolero this year, so my method is not infallible (I attribute it to a faulty timer on my lighting system, that left plants in the dark - unnoticed when I went to work). The Freedom rose that I rooted did great with the orchids, but horribly when placed with the outdoor roses, so if you are growing florist roses, beware that it might not be a good garden rose. Even with garden roses, they are very climate specific, so there may be even more variation with florist roses.

ROOTING ROSES with soft-wood cuttings IN LESS THAN 2 MONTHS. I'm in zone 5a, Chicagoland. Roses die to the crown through winter, and don't sprout new canes until May. Below rootings are from softwood & new growth. Soft-wood needs FAST DRAINAGE, so I use 1/3 perlite, 1/3 vermiculite, 1/3 sand or peaty potting soil. I drilled extra holes on the side of pots for fast drainage. First I top with my high magnesium clay, later on I top with high-nitrogen black peat compost. Watering is done once a day with acidic rain-water plus soaked red-lava for potassium. Soft-wood cuttings need more sun (at least 4 hrs.) to prevent fungal rot. Also pots are under a Norway spruce trees to shelter them from heavy rain that rot roots. These pots receive 10 to 20% of rain. I also put them ON TOP OF BRICKS to prevent roots of tree from crawling upward into pots. Below pic. is Evelyn from a rooting taken from a cutting 2 months ago. Since it's in partial shade, leaf-cutter bees ate the leaves. Rooting softwood is different from hardwood. Softwood requires more sun and I CANNOT COVER with plastic (they rot). But hardwood can be PARTIALLY covered with plastic to create more humidity, see below picture from below link (by Pamela), using coffee-cup (with plastic lid), but there's a hole to allow air to get it. https://www.flowerpatchfarmhouse.com/rooting-roses-from.../ Differences between soft-wood and hard-wood rooting: Soft-wood cuttings needs to be soaked for 1 day with alkaline tap water, rooting hormone is NOT necessary if the end is wounded. Soft-wood's leaves wilt easily with acidic rain. Soft-wood needs a FAST-DRAINING & fluffy medium such as perlite & potting soil, plus vermiculite to retain nutrients. Soft-wood also needs alkaline pH (more lime added). Soft-wood rots easily if the medium is acidic. Soft-wood also rots if covered with a plastic bag, best rooted in open air. Soft-wood also needs more sun to grow leaves. Below are my soft-wood rootings receiving only 10 to 20% of rain since heavy rain rots the rootings easily. HARD-WOOD rooting: needs longer-soak in acidic rain-water, plus rooting hormone to develop roots. Needs a wetter medium (such as 3/4 sand & 1/4 to 1/3 peatmoss), needs more shade, best with high humidity such as a plastic cover. To soak, see below link: "A long soak of the cuttings in one inch of below solution for 12-25 hours. Rates if you use Rhizopon AA Water Soluble Tablets: 1-2 tablets per liter of water." http://www.rooting-hormones.com/rose.htm Fat bud on a rooting done in less than 2 months. The secret is red-lava rock watering for potassium. Learn that tip from HMF Jay-Jay in the Netherlands ... he grows roses from seeds, using red-lava-sand. Below are my rootings done a few years ago under a spruce tree to block out heavy rain: