It is an extremely common fence in Revolutionary War historic sites. If it's situated in grass, get an industrial strength weed whacker. They have an enormous length of edging for the effective length of the fence, so while there isn't any reason the edge can't get mulch, it translates into mulching the entire area. Usually, they are in fields, with paid groundskeepers to keep the weeds down. Any modular fencing can be moved around. How permament they are is determined by how permanent the ground connections are. Anything that is connected by a form of pound-in stake will be reasonably movable. Plain wooden posts require digging postholes. If you are willing to do that multiple times, those are movable. Most fence pieces aren't solid, so wind will just blow right through most designs. If you are worries about animals, then an additional screen of turkey wire can solve that. Our Agway has had short pieces of metal fencing. I saw wooden picket fence sections today at Ace Hardware.

I think Faron missed that this is rough sewn cedar, so skipping primer is really not going to work because of the tannin bleed. If I were doing the repairs, I would cut all the cedar, then prime all sides, especially the end cuts and then install it. I know this isn't always feasible, but IMO it's a pretty silly idea to install raw cedar anywhere outside if you have the option of priming it before installation. Backpriming helps to block out moisture on all sides which will give the wood a longer life. You also need to use an oil based primer, preferably a slow drying one. The fast drying oil based primers are okay, but you get a better bond with a slow drying process. Latex primers will not work because there are stains in the cedar like tannin that will bleed right through them.

Well I got the posts and headers up this weekend. The joists and stripping is next. I do have a question for you though, i'll double post in the electrical forum. I want to hang a ceiling fan from the joists. I have selected a ul wet listed fan, would this outlet box work for the wet location? Here is a link that might be useful: outlet box

I think if it were my house I would do really large wall stencils, maybe after whitewashing first, but maybe not (I wouldn’t choose this color scheme, but something this oversized and folky in terms of a pattern I think I might then stencil the floors in the same or a harmonious pattern as the walls, maybe in the same color, maybe in contrasting color, but I’d also use huge area rugs with lots of texture. the reason I’d go for stenciling on the walls is how many knots you’ve got there. Stenciling will play well with the knots.