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Landscape Design Pools & Spas Design Dilemma

Stamped Concrete Pool deck pattern

3 years ago

Installing an inground Radiant pool (Backyard Innovations line) this fall with pool decking to be installed in the spring. I live in the northeast so freeze thaw is a huge issue. I will most likely go with stamped concrete as I worry about pavers shifting, weeds, sand getting in the pool, ands, chipmunks, etc (I've had all this before). I am looking for advice as to different options for spacing of expansion joints (can not stand that white line look) and to choosing a pattern that will minimize the look of any inevitable cracks down the road. Irregular borders like fieldstone or straight edges like bluestone? Small pattern vs large? Also, please offer advice as to separate coping vs solid surface. I worry about that joint as well. For reference, this pool will have a line with a solid pattern (probably GLI White Crystal) and no faux tile border. I am sure to lose my mind if the patio cracks....

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Comments (6)

PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
IMO concrete cracks in areas where freeze thaw is an issue so you will need to talk to concrete pros as to what is doable in your climate. As for design I have no clue as to your st yle of house even.
Corinne C
Original Author
3 years ago
You are correct- cracks are common (and usually inevitable) in my area, but stamped concrete is a very common pool surround or patio near me. And pavers/stone tend to be a giant hassle requiring constant cleaning and maintenance (I'm totally over stone from multiple previous patios- brick, bluestone, travertine, techno-bloc).I guess my question is really what pattern would hide inevitable cracks best? Large vs small pattern? Straight vs curved lines? My home is a Georgian colonial. Backyard is 3 stories tall, tiered yard with a drystone retaining wall, and wooded. Very sunny and bright. My house is very manicured from the front but completely a blank slate out back. Style of the pattern is really not an issue as I could make anything work. Cracks. Hiding cracks is the issue...
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Thanks Rhodium, I forgot that we did think about that... for a few moments. The down-side is that we'd also have to leave the deck (that steps down to the patio) at a higher elevation to accommodate the added stone and mortar later, and who knows if we'd ever have the money to complete that, so I thought we should just give it up and accept that stone isn't going to happen. Thanks for the idea though, it's definitely a good one.
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You don't have drains in the decking? Sometimes called deco drains (strips of plastic tubes with slots in the top). Assuming there are no drains, prop the screen door open (I assume you have one) and use a large squeegie to push the water out the open door. -Gorilla
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We've had our pool for 8 years and used pavers. A big reason for our choice was drainage. They did a great job and we've had no settling issues, there was even a leak that required repairs under part of the decking so that turned out to be a good choice. We did experience some mold in the wetter sections and weeds growing between pavers after a while. We recently hired a highly rated, professional paver company to redo the sand between the pavers which requires a good powerwash cleaning, replacement of the joint sand, machine-tamping it all, and a sealant. Unfortunately after a couple strong rains the sand was partially washed out in some areas. They came back and redid the entire job again only to have the issue repeat itself and now we're discussing next moves.
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Stamped concrete can only work on newly poured concrete. When the concrete is "green", close to cure, the powder color is added and then stamped on the fresh concrete to create an impression. Personally, I'm not crazy about it as to me it looks to fake. Your best bet to save money, is to paint the surface with a deck coating. Kelly Technical coatings has a line of deck coatings that have a variety of color choices. It's easy to apply and is water based. This will spruce up your patio nicely for an inexpensive cost. We did this for a customer a few years ago. It came out nice and it was inexpensive. You may have to re-coat every 2-3 years. It's lot cheaper than a new pour. Plus the cost to remove the existing, yard repair, etc... For the new section, you could integrate the natural stone as a border. As long as your new pour is separate from the old, you will not have any cracking. Even a 1/2" break is sufficient.
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PRO
Revolutionary Gardens
3 years ago
If you can get a squares and rectangles pattern with a faux bond line that runs all the way across the slab at intervals, using that and then sawcutting an inch into the concrete after hardening is your best bet for encouraging cracks to go there. You can also use a stamp that just stone textures the entire slab and then sawcut a grid pattern for your "joints" (ie, a 4 ft x 4ft grid). I like that better because part of why stamped concrete always looks fake is there's not enough shadowing at the joints. Just be sure to talk to your installer about a sealer with grip enhancers, stamped concrete can be like wearing butter shoes on a teflon pan when it gets wet.
Corinne C
Original Author
3 years ago
Thank you! Great advice!
PRO
Norwood Architects
3 years ago
Totally agree with Revolutionary Gardens - cutting control joints into the concrete will encourage cracking (which, as you say, will happen) to happen where you want it to and not just anywhere. We specifiy 1 1/4" deep control joints at not more than 20'-0" o.c. so that no uncut area is more than 400 s.f. Good luck!
Corinne C
Original Author
3 years ago
Thank you! Way better to control the inevitable!

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