Plumeriavine, I am so sorry you are going through this. I really sympathize with your frustration and I admire you for trying to seek out solutions for the various issues. Some of them are just cosmetic, but many of them are structural and I think it would be good for you to take a step back for a minute and decide if you have the time, energy and experience to determine how to fix each and every problem individually. I'm not a lawyer, but I used to do a lot of contract work in my former job working with lawyers. I want to caution you that once you start developing and implementing your own solutions, you will begin to muddy the waters between what is you KD/installer's issue and what is a result of the fix you implemented. In simple terms, you're taking joint ownership of the problem. If you agree to a specific fix, they will be able to claim that you authorized it and they may be off the hook. As soon as you take ownership of fixing their mistakes, they will hold you accountable if the fixes don't work. It's taken them 6 months to do a horrendous job of installing a poorly designed kitchen. Allowing them to continue to butcher your beautiful cabinets and repair them inch by inch, while you do battle to get everything fixed is a long, long road. Even more complicated is trying to document every issue and every fix needed in an attempt to get a financial settlement out of them. Remember, these are just the issues you know of--there are probably more you haven't discovered yet. I think now is the time to make a firm decision to choose one of the following doors: 1. continue to work with these clowns bandaiding issue after issue, 2. get a thorough evaluation of all the problems by qualified third parties and go to court to get a monetary settlement to complete the job with someone else or 3. have they rip it out, put everything back to where it was and get a full refund. I don't think #1 is an option-you don't trust them and you will take ownership of the problem. And I honestly think that # 3 is a shorter road than #2. I know that's not what you want to hear, but as many have said, the problems are just too massive to think that you have a chance of catching every issue and developing the correct solution. You paid far too much for those beautiful cabinets to accept a hatchet job of an installation. Many years ago we watched as a good friend battled with a builder over their dream house experiencing structural issues. They continued to work with the builder, allowing him to implement solution after solution. In the end, they ended up in court and sold the house back to the builder. The whole process took over 5 years. When it was all over, they wished they had just cut loose from the builder when the problems piled up and moved on. Figure out which option you want to pursue, and put all your energy into that option. If it were me, I'd be headed for door #3.

We got the MSI CyrusXL installed and we've had problems, but I think that has to do with our subfloor. We've had laminate installed before with no issues. With vinyl plank, you have got to make sure your floor is even throughout. LVP will expose any subfloor unevenness due to the thinness of the planks. With slight variations, the click-lock system becomes unstable - you will hear crackling and popping sounds until the planks start to come apart. My MSI flooring is also warping in some areas. I don't think the quality is terrible, but you need to have perfectly even floors with no variations - these floors are unforgiving otherwise. Also, don't DYI, hire a skilled floor contractor to install finicky floors. After 8 months, we're going to remove them and going with laminate which is more forgiving to floor variations (leveling 1,400 sq is very expensive - going with floors that are better able to handle slight unevenness).

Hi Ryan, I’ve changed my product choice since then- still sticking with Shaw Floorte Pro but the line is Resolute XL HD Plus in Classic Oak. My first choice was Provenza Moda Living in First Crush or At Ease (super popular, look on IG) but my subk didn’t offer it. I did get my hands on samples and compared it to the Shaw and am glad I went with Shaw. Ir’s far superior in terms of scratch resistance and I like the feel of the Shaw better. Small center sample is the Shaw. The rest are Provenza pieces.

Residential projects with foot traffic in an entryway or households with pets should stay in the 12-mil to 20-mil range, while lesser-used areas could handle a lower wear layer. For commercial projects, stick with a 20-mil to 40-mil wear layer for the best protection possible.Apr 13, 2021 I have 12 mm wear in out LVP it is now 15 yrs old with 3 huge dogs in and out of a free run dog run in all kinds of weather . A quick mop up at the end of rainy day looks like new . This is oin out walkout basement so also get all the traffic from the pool in the summer .